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I just tried the tool now and now luck... still overheats, heater is still blowing cold. although when i pulled vacuum and tried to fill there was a left over -5 psi in the system. Could that be because the system was 100 percent cold overnight? and possibly the thermostat is not opening?

also, the driver side of the radiator hose and radiator itself is cool to the touch. the main return hose feels like its filled with hot steam. still sound like air in the system?

Letting it cool now and going to try again shortly
turns out the last -5 psi was due to the bucket of coolant being below the system. after raising the bucket above the car it filled in the last -5 psi.

keeping stable temps at 230 now but gonna let it cool and power vacuum it again.

anyone know how much i should let it cool? when i open it its still warm but doesn't let out any steam or make any noises like pressure escaping.
 

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Pardon the potentially stupid question but those who have problems with air bubbles do you have 2 check valves added the cooling system.

When testing my car using the DDM method all the air on my car was flushed after the second attempt. I used my lungs instead of a compressor and could feel the bubbles moving around the system and could feel the restriction in the cooling system change as more air was pushed out.

My car does not have the check valves added.
 

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Just tried again, no go. is it possible to just keep heat cycling it. letting it cool down, refill coolant then run it hot again rinse repeat.

Is it a self burping system? I pull full -24 vacumm and ensure no air enters.

Going to take off the thermostat and drill it, also check the water pump and make sure its turning. I just redid the timing and balance chain/guides and tensioners
 

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Previously owned a 2007 Solstice. Base model, manual trans, limited slip, black on black.
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Interesting post! Thank you.
I was always led to believe the holes in the thermostat body were there to help with faster warm up coolant to the heater core, in the winter. Some heat is better than none at all. Did not think they would help with a vapor locked cooling system!
 

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Interesting post! Thank you.
I was always led to believe the holes in the thermostat body were there to help with faster warm up coolant to the heater core, in the winter. Some heat is better than none at all. Did not think they would help with a vapor locked cooling system!
They are often used in aircraft engines as well. Oil sumps which are separate from the engine block, many of which are air cooled and have no radiator except for the oil, use thermostats with holes in them for the same reason we do. airlock when changing oil. One type of engine I have worked on is air-cooled, water cooled, and oil cooled. Great engine but a bugger when changing fluids. I personally prefer the plain hole over the jiggle valve, "parts that ain't there weigh nothing, cost nothing, and don't break down"
 
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