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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I plan to upgrade this to serve as instructions for anyone interested in installing the Pioneer D3 into the Solstice. I just ordered the parts and will install as they arrive (some are on back order) Here is a overview of what I plan to do for the audio system. Pics on the right are guides for how I want it to look when finally installed. Crutchfield had a great deal going on now, free backup camera and 15% off if you buy 3 pioneer items. 15% off Code 3A185



Thanks to NBCKIPP, cartmann22, Justice and all the others on here for suggestions and ideas for what works and more importantly what doesn't.

I purchased my 2007 GXP with the base stereo and NO onstar since I planned to upgrade from the beginning. So these parts will work in that application. The only difference I am aware of is using the GMOS-Lan-04 harness if you want to keep the Monsoon amp and onstar. edit (also has input for VSS wire directly on the unit)

Parts List:

Pioneer - AVIC D3 (Head unit)
Metra - Turbo Wires 71-2104 (wiring Harness) <-- Not needed if using GMOS-lan-03 (04) adapter
PAC SWI-PS (Steering Wheel control)
Pioneer - CD-I200 (High Speed iPod Cable)
Pioneer - SIR-PNR2 (Sirius Satellite Radio adapter)
Metra - 95-3302 (Double din dash install kit)
Metra - 40-cr10 (Antenna adapter)
Pioneer - CD-BTB200 (Bluetooth adapter)
METRA - GMOS-LAN-03 (Onstar / chime harness) For NON monsoon system
Pioneer - ND-BC2 (Rear view camera)
NAPA - AR201 (12v 30 amp SPDT (Single pole double throw) relay (Needed with GMOS-Lan-03 for blinker "click")

Later Upgrades as paychecks allow ;)
Focal - Polyglass K2 V2 (Front 6 1/2" Components)
Focal - 100 CV1 - (Rear 4" component speakers)
Alpine - PDX 2.150 or 4.150 (Stereo or 4 channel amp for the front and rear speakers)
Alpine - PDX 1.600 (Subwoofer amp)
JL Audio - 10w3 in a custom fiberglass enclosure (Perhaps the pioneer thin sub instead)

I also plan to flush mount the concealed display in the dash where the passenger airbag light is now.

. . . Stay tuned for the install and pics
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
The Metra 71-2104 will hook up the factory wiring to the pioneer harness without tapping into anything (not 100% needed, but allows for a much easier installation or change if required)

GMOS-Lan-03 (Harness to keep chimes and warning bells and onstar for NON Monsoon systems)

GMOS-Lan-04 (Harness to keep chimes and warning bells and onstar for Monsoon systems that will use the Monsoon amps.)

EDIT: After installing the unit the GMOS-lan-03 will take the place of the Metra wiring harness so both are not needed. You may use only the gmos harness.
 

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Some great components many of which I am using. Please keep us all up to date as you complete the project. Couple of thoughts/questions:

* Why bother with the rear speakers which in my mind add so little to the sound? Why not go with the Alpine PDX-4.150 amp with its 150 watts RMS per channel X 4 power and then drive the front speakers with two channels, then either bridge the other two channels to drive the sub, or wire the sub for a dual voice coil set up? This route you only have to find space for one amp, save the cost of the additional amp, save the money for rear speakers that again, add little to no improvement in sound, and save the money on expensive power/ground cables & source cables for an additional amp & set of speakers.

* Wish we could find the audio shop that made the sub. enclosure you show in your photo which was in the '05 SEMA Eclipse show car. If they made a mold for this sub enclosure they could mass produce and advertise via this forum. If memory serves me right the audio shop that installed the Ecplise equipment was not in LA where the US distributor for Fujitsu 10 is located but in the Mid West. The owner of this car has posted before in this Forum so possibly that is a start.

* Lastly, if you or others have not found avic411.com web forum that is devoted to the Pioneer head unit you really should take a look. All kinds of good info for install, trouble shooting, compatible Bluetooth phones, operational issues, etc.

* PS--purchased much of the components for my system upgrade via Onlinecarstereo.com--huge savings over an installer, but no factory warranty--just their inhouse warranty. No shipping and sales tax if you live outside California. I had to pay the sales tax but the savings on the product were outstanding--brand new in sealed boxes.

Again, keep us all posted on your progress--I am patiently awaiting the Bluetooth adapter from Pioneer via Crutchfield and the back up camera license plate frame that I purchased via eBay (feel it is a more integrated look than the freebie that came with the HU).
 

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The Metra 71-2104 will hook up the factory wiring to the pioneer harness without tapping into anything (not 100% needed, but allows for a much easier installation or change if required)

GMOS-Lan-03 (Harness to keep chimes and warning bells and onstar for NON Monsoon systems)

GMOS-Lan-04 (Harness to keep chimes and warning bells and onstar for Monsoon systems that will use the Monsoon amps.)
If you do not have OnStar, how important is keeping the chimes? Just a personal thing or real value? The GMOS-LAN-04 adapter is just over a $100 and given I do not have OnStar, I am not sure how much I would be missing to just forget the chimes.

Thanks to your help and the list of install items in your original note and posted by NBCKIP I was able to go on line today (ShipSound.com) to find the PAC steering wheel adapter, Metra Double DIN mounting kit, Metra wiring harness, and Metra antenna adapter for some very good savings over what my installer would have asked--full retail I would presume. The site I was in did not have a complete amp wiring kit with the 6 gauge power cables required for my Alpine amp--only had kits for 8, 4 & 2 gauge wire. Was afraid to order the 4 gauge due to the diameter of the wire may not fit the amp power/ground connection.

Due to the fact I am going with a 4 channel amp, I was hoping to save some bucks with a amp wiring kit with the required 6 gauge power cable and ground, in-line fuse holder and fuse, 4-channel RCA cables, remote amp turn on wire and speaker wires. Will continue to search for the proper kit and bring to the installer.

Recieved notice today that the Pioneer Bluetooth adpater is now finally in the mail after initial backorder, and the Boyo rear view camera license plate holder is also now in the mail and should show up tomorrow. Once these last items show up it will install time!!!!! :) Been a real saga searching for the right components, searching for the best price, learning enough to be dangerous, but as they say "it is not the destination but the journey".
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
* Why bother with the rear speakers which in my mind add so little to the sound? Why not go with the Alpine PDX-4.150 amp with its 150 watts RMS per channel X 4 power and then drive the front speakers with two channels, then either bridge the other two channels to drive the sub, or wire the sub for a dual voice coil set up? This route you only have to find space for one amp, save the cost of the additional amp, save the money for rear speakers that again, add little to no improvement in sound, and save the money on expensive power/ground cables & source cables for an additional amp & set of speakers.
This exact thought and setup has entered my mind as well.

"Alpine - PDX 2.150 or 4.150 (Stereo or 4 channel amp for the front and rear speakers)" from my first post

The speakers/amps are the next big upgrade. I was thinking of the best possible sound quality/volume (amps for all 4 speakers plus a separate mono amp for the sub. I will have to see how the sound changes when I get the Focals for the front.

* Wish we could find the audio shop that made the sub. enclosure you show in your photo which was in the '05 SEMA Eclipse show car. If they made a mold for this sub enclosure they could mass produce and advertise via this forum.
That would be slick! I was planning on having a local shop custom fab up a sub enclosure. I figure it will be $3-500 just for the box, depending on how elaborate they get with it.


* Lastly, if you or others have not found avic411.com web forum that is devoted to the Pioneer head unit you really should take a look. All kinds of good info for install, trouble shooting, compatible Bluetooth phones, operational issues, etc.
Been there, read the entire forum, got the T-shirt. That forum alone was one of the reasons I went with Pioneer instead of Alpine. Tons of great info and ideas on there. Bypass instructions, wiring questions, custom screens etc. It's amazing.

I got most of the stuff from Crutchfield. 15% off plus free backup camera, free shipping and no tax was a great deal. So far I spent around $1400 for the radio and all the accessories and wires/mounting kits/onstar harness etc. The packages started coming today and the D3 is expected to ship at the end of this month. Hope the stuff on backorder (basically every accessory except the iPod cable) will get back in stock soon. I may have to rip apart the dashboard 2x if the wait is going to be too long.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
The Install (AKA the goodies arrived) [Part 1]

Well all this week Crutchfield has sent me a different part and I had boxes at my door everyday. With this I was able to start work on my stereo upgrade. So without further adieu:

The "typical Before Pic"



Most of the bolts were 10mm or 9/32 for the smaller ones. A few extensions and a swivel head are really needed for some of the more hard to reach areas. This is the look of things after the planning stage and starting to rip everything apart. The dash pulled apart quite easily with some force. Just be gentle and work your way around, you will be fine. Quick note, you do NOT need to remove the shifter as the instructions say to get the IP trim off. If you turn the shifter ring so it faces vertically you can slide the IP trim over the shifter boot and keep it in place. My shifter was held in with blue locktite and no allen key I had was going to touch it.



Now on to the really fun part the wiring harness. I know my way around a soldering iron and have a minor knowledge of schematics and how to read them. I took all the harnesses into the basement and started connecting it all up. It went fairly easy, until I started making changes and re-reading that some wires need extra 12 volt accessory connections etc. What I did in the end (day 2 at 7:30 am) was make a pigtail with 5 ends tapped into the 12v accessory line of the after market harness as well as do the same for the ground. This turned out to be a great method although it looks a bit messy. Wire ties and electrical tape were used to try and keep things in good order. I also tested each component (with the radio in my lap) prior to install just to make sure everything was A-OK.

EDIT - When making your pigtail tap a few extra lines off the yellow battery line as well. Sirius, Bluetooth, and the blinker relay should be run from a constant 12v source

ILLUMINATION WIRE - Note the included instructions for the GMOS-LAN-03 adapter are incorrect regarding the illumination wire. The orange and white (dimmer) wire from the GMOS adapter should be hooked up to the orange illumination wire in the head unit harness. This will provide the correct day/night mode navigation operation. The extra solid orange wire in the GMOS harness may be cut short and capped off. (In the picture below the incorrect wire is attached. The orange and white wire on the far left is the correct wire to attach.)
[end edit]

 

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Discussion Starter #8
Head Unit Install [Part 2]

SWIPS the steering wheel adapter. This was a fun one to work on. First of all they have the connectors backwards in the instructions connector 1 is really connector 2 and vice versa. Everythig else seemed to be in good order though. The green wire from the SWIPS gets connected to Pin 14 (blue wire) of the vehicle wire harness. Just take a knife, peel back a bit of the wire covering and use a tap in connector. The Red wire gets a 12v acc and black to ground as usual. The other wires may be left alone or trimmed as they are not needed. Keep the 2 loops of wire in tact though (brown and purple). With this installed I started to "program" the unit only to find out that it was not working as instructed. After some choice words and a stiff iced tea I looked over the install sheet again. It seems I neglected to notice the extra install note for the Solstice that read (attach Pin 11 on C2 (White wire with black stripe) to accessory 12 volt source. After I calmed myself I tapped into that connector on the vehicle harness and everything worked out as planned. Here is a shot of where I decided to install the unit. easy access if I ever need to reprogram it.



Next up was the rear view camera. The accessory box mounted easily. Take teh 12V and ground (that you made in the earlier wiring harness step) and crimp / solder your connections. I mounted my box with velcro to try and stop and rattles.



Now in order for the really cool part to work you need to find a circuit that will change when the vehicle is placed in reverse. This hookup will turn the camera on when you start to backup. I could not find an easy one, so I just decided to use the passenger side backup light. Little did I realize that you need to take off the fender well and mud flap in order to get to it. The wire I tapped into was green and goes to the reverse lights. The red arrow points to the connection. The wire was then run down the passenger side of the trunk behind the carpet and down the center waterfall compartment. It passes under this and hooks up to the radio behind the dash.



As for mounting it, I took off the license plate and stuck the camera to teh car with the supplied sticky tape. I then put the license plate over the tab to help hold the camera in place. Here is a view from the side to see how small and unobtrusive it is.



I was unable to fully locate the VSS wire and I was getting tired so I opted to leave that out. Putting everything together was fairly easy and the final results are amazing.



And for my "Hackers" fans, It looks crispy in the dark too:



iPod cable is plugged into the unit and sits in the glove box for now. Not sure if I want to put it somewhere else. When the sirius and Bluetooth adapters are done being backordered I will update my posts with pics and how to info. They should be quite easy installs since I already have the power and ground lines tied in already. I just have to unravel them and crimp them together. The hardest part is going to be finding some more space behind the dash to stuff everything. It's really jammed back there now. I have a few scrapes on my hands from wedging them through the small openings feeding the stereo harness back there.

Let the questions comments and such begin. I should have taken more pictures, but i was too "involved" with trying to get everything working by Monday morning.
 

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Morfious...your install looks great. Couple of questions...where did you end up installing the GPS antenna? Did you try under the dash? Second...looks like you have your ipod plugged into the front of the unit...didn't you install the ipod adaptor that plugs into the back of the D3? Reviews on the ipod interface have been fantastic as you are able to charge the unit as well.

Nice job on providing pictures for some of the difficult install points!

Regards,

vtail
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
The GPS antennae is actually in the center waterfall behind the trim piece. There is a small shelf on the top of the waterfall storage compartment behind the trim. It fits perfectly there and is totally out of the way. Signal reception is perfect. The white wire you see in the pictures is from my old install, it's a dock connector to 1/8" jack iPod cable. I was just using it to test the front AV jack. I'll see if I can get a quick picture of the GPS antenna. If it's too much I will shoot one when I install the Sirius unit (on Backorder) I also have some VSS wire info although I did not hook mine up. Maybe if someone can track this to an easier access point I will give it a try.

Manual Trans 2007 GXP:
VSS High signal Yellow wire to Pin 53 of connector C2 (58 Pins) of ECM
VSS Low signal Purple wire to pin 40 of connector C2 (58 Pins) of ECM

Here are some pics of the GPS (and Sirius when it arrives) antenna install Position. The first pic shows where they are installed. The other pictures are taken looking down from there.

Trim pulled back showing location of antenna:



Here is the little "shelf" that works out perfectly for the GPS antennae. I have an almost full signal according to the status bar on the radio.

 

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Morfious: You say you are getting good GPS reception--is this with the roof both up and down? Like the location, but hopefully when I install my system the installer can use the existing factory XM antenna. But if the connector does not work we will have to go to plan B.

Attaching a write up someone else posted about the SSV wire location that puts things in English:

"The VSS wire is a little tough to get to. If you open the hood you will find the ECM on the driver's side by the firewall, there will be three big plugs in it. Unlatch all three as the VSS wire is located inside the very bottom plug. You'll have to use a razor blade to cut the sheathing off, so be careful not to cut any wires. There are a lot of wires in there, so you'll have to rifle through the whole bundle to find it, but it's the bright yellow wire, probably in the middle of the bunch. If I remember correctly it should be the only yellow wire. The easiest thing to do is put a wire tap on it and the run it through the firewall at the grommet where the cable that pops the hood runs through."

Morfious: You cite the location of the yellow wire detailed above and refer to it as the high signal wire and another wire as the low signal wire. Is one better than the other for connection to the AVIC-D3?
 

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Attaching a write up someone else posted about the SSV wire location that puts things in English:

"The VSS wire is a little tough to get to. If you open the hood you will find the ECM on the driver's side by the firewall, there will be three big plugs in it. Unlatch all three as the VSS wire is located inside the very bottom plug. You'll have to use a razor blade to cut the sheathing off, so be careful not to cut any wires. There are a lot of wires in there, so you'll have to rifle through the whole bundle to find it, but it's the bright yellow wire, probably in the middle of the bunch. If I remember correctly it should be the only yellow wire. The easiest thing to do is put a wire tap on it and the run it through the firewall at the grommet where the cable that pops the hood runs through."
Russims...the above information is for the NA sol. The GXP only has 2 plugs on it's ECM. I spoke to Crutchfield after Morfious made the post about the GXP...they said to use the high (yellow) instead of the low. I'll be doing my install today...I'll let you know if I can find any difference. Also, I have checked and it certaily looks like I'll be able to use the GM stock XM antenna with the new Pioneer XM tuner/receiver.
Regards,
vtail
 

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Morfious: You say you are getting good GPS reception--is this with the roof both up and down?
That's a good question! My installed is telling me that the GPS receiver has to be visible to the satellite to work. If we can just stick it anywhere internally in the car, that'd be great.
 

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Russims...the above information is for the NA sol. The GXP only has 2 plugs on it's ECM. I spoke to Crutchfield after Morfious made the post about the GXP...they said to use the high (yellow) instead of the low. I'll be doing my install today...I'll let you know if I can find any difference. Also, I have checked and it certaily looks like I'll be able to use the GM stock XM antenna with the new Pioneer XM tuner/receiver.
Regards,
vtail
Good luck on your install and thanks for the heads up in your post about the difference between the N/A and GXP with respect to the VSS connection--who knew. Look forward to hearing how the connections went--VSS, reverse, and illumination. Also if you can use the stock XM anntenna. Then interested in where you mount the GPS antenna. Those with a Sky have a much better option for mounting the GPS and XM antenna under the front dash--out of sight for a clean install.

Speaking of Crutchfield, where I purchased the AVIC-D3, was surprised I did not get the wiring harness and the dash mounting kit given they promote the fact that these are included in the sale. Asked them about this and they said they just did not have this for the Solstice at this time. Well if you can purchase them from Metra, Crutchfield should be able to as well. Not going to break me but.........

Post photos if you can of the VSS connection, and others if you can. You will be my hero and my installer's (may save me money on the install if they know going in the finer points of the installation).
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Morfious: You say you are getting good GPS reception--is this with the roof both up and down? Like the location, but hopefully when I install my system the installer can use the existing factory XM antenna. But if the connector does not work we will have to go to plan B.
Both, signal is great with top up or down. The signal has no trouble passing through the canvas and plastic that are above my GPS install location.


You cite the location of the yellow wire detailed above and refer to it as the high signal wire and another wire as the low signal wire. Is one better than the other for connection to the AVIC-D3?
Not sure, and as stated above Crutchfield says the High signal (Yellow) wire is the better one to use, I don't know any better so I would use that. Accuracy has been great without using the VSS wire though on my limited testing.

I'll be doing my install today...I'll let you know if I can find any difference. Also, I have checked and it certaily looks like I'll be able to use the GM stock XM antenna with the new Pioneer XM tuner/receiver.
Regards,
vtail
Good luck there are some tight corners behind the dash. You may need a dremel to open up a few holes on the Dash trim kit to get it to install correcly. Let me know if you have any issues in using the illumination. I hooked up the orange ill wire to my GMOS-Lan_03 illumination wire, but no auto changing maps at night. I did not hook up the dimmer wire from the GMOS-Lan-03 so I'm not sure what is going on. Just something to be aware of or test before you put everything back together. Let me know how it turns out.
 

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That's a good question! My installed is telling me that the GPS receiver has to be visible to the satellite to work. If we can just stick it anywhere internally in the car, that'd be great.
That is just not true--read many places where people installed both the XM and GPS antenna under a dash and no problems getting a good signal. Recommended that there be no metal panel above the antenna/s, but works best with metal panel below or use of the metal plate Pioneer provides to mount the antenna on.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Speaking of Crutchfield, where I purchased the AVIC-D3, was surprised I did not get the wiring harness and the dash mounting kit given they promote the fact that these are included in the sale. Asked them about this and they said they just did not have this for the Solstice at this time. Well if you can purchase them from Metra, Crutchfield should be able to as well. Not going to break me but.........

Post photos if you can of the VSS connection, and others if you can. You will be my hero and my installer's (may save me money on the install if they know going in the finer points of the installation).
I had actual part number for Crutchfield to look up. I got the Dash install kit, and the antenna adapter from them for free. I had to tell him what the part numbers were, but he added them to my order for free. They did not have the wiring harness (which is not needed if using the GMOS adapter) they also did not have the GMOS adapter.

Illumination wire still has me confused. I would love to hear from someone that has it working correctly. Wondering if it's a problem with my specific wiring or a limitation of the vehicle due to daytime running lamps.

EDIT Updated Info

I just tested and it seems I did have the incorrect wire connected to the illumination wire. The orange illumination wire from head unit should be connected to the orange and white wire from the GMOS-LAN-03 harness. The solid orange wire in the GMOS-LAN-03 harness can be cut and sealed off to prevent any shorts. I just tested this and it works perfectly. both by turning the headlights on manually as well an using the sensor.
Earlier post edited and updated to include the correct information.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
BTB200 and SIR-PNR2 (Bluetooth and Sirius Install)

Well today was more fun and excitement as I ripped apart my Solstice for the second half of the head unit upgrade. Here is how she looked with her interior ripped out for the second time, ready to start the day:



All that just to install this:



Things went fairly smoothly. After some test fitting and head scratching I decided to install the sirius unit behind the drivers seat trim panel. This worked out quite well as the hardest part was fishing the IP bus cable from the head unit to where I have the sirius installed. Few bloody knuckles, but all went according to plan. Here is the final resting place for the sirius adapter. I drilled 2 holes in the rear firewall and used a strip of HD velcro to hold the bottom of the unit firmly in place. I am confident that my unit will not come loose in adventurous driving conditions.



And here is a clearer shot of where I have the antennas installed. The reception is better in this location than it is in my Jeep (antennae is on the hood). Works great and I have had no issues with the unit while driving around today.



This install would have taken less time if I would have waited, but I'm impatient. Right now everything is working 100% and I am very happy. There are a few quirks with the Sirius adapter, (memo only works for songs not artists, and only 1 line display of info) but they are minor. Right now I have the bluetooth adapter tucked into the far right corner of the dash, to the right of the glove box. I may velcro it to the side if I see it is moving around, but right now it seems stable. The microphone wire was snaked across the dashboard and up the drivers side windsheild pillar. I could figure out no great mounting options for the microphone so I taped it into the cutout for the onstar microphone. It seems to be working just fine and the people I talk to on the phone say they can hear me without problems. The bluetooth was easy to set up and I was able to transfer several of my contacts at one time over to the unit. I still have to read the manual to see all of the options and settings, but it's working and that's what's important.

All connections for constant 12v were made at the radio harness, (blinker relay, Sirius, BTB200) I am quite happy and hope that my instructions and tips here make things easier and more understandable for others. The Speaker and amp upgrade will come at the end of the summer (as long as no other catastrophes come about first).
 

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Priceless!

Great job Morfious...If you plan on doing this install, these posts are priceless! I have finally completed my install and will be adding a couple of my notes in a few days.

Morfious...your location for the GPS antenna is pure genius!!! After ripping my car apart, there is not another location better suited for the antenna. Reception is perfect top up or down. A truly great find!

Regards,
vtail
 
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