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I have a 2007gxp and don't know if tuned, so I did the acceleration in third and went over 100kpi....does that mean it was tuned?
 

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I have a 2007gxp and don't know if tuned, so I did the acceleration in third and went over 100kpi....does that mean it was tuned?
NO, you are running at 14 psi.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Well, of course the car is already giving me headache. I've put in about 2k miles on it and it started heating up on me and not giving me cabin heat. Changed reservoir cap, nothing, changed thermostat, nothing, changed water pump, nothing, what the heck is going on? When I run the car on my driveway, I see no leaks at all. Once I back out I see some liquid spill like there is a leak but it's pooling it somewhere until I move the car. I don't see the coolant going down (maybe it's so small?) not sure what else to check. Maybe the head gasket? I'm so busy that I'm already thinking about selling it for $1500-2k under value to cover repairs. What should I do? I'm slightly over it but also love the car (when it runs) lol. I am able to drive it around my neighbors hood for about 20-30 mins before temps hits 215-220 then I park it.


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They probably did a coolant change on it. If it wasn't done correctly, you will have to "burp" your car. Search the forum, there's thousands of posts on it. Also ddmworks.com will have information on how to burp the car. After that's done, see how it does. I would recommend doing this at least twice if it still continues. After that it's time to look at more expensive repairs.

Did you do the WP? Is it burning coolant (usually will get white smoke out of exhaust and it should smell sweet)? My other question, you said you're calling for heat when it heats up that much and you aren't getting any heat....right? No oil in the coolant or vice versa...right? Are you tuned? If so, they might have your timing advanced too much causing the car to heat up....just a thought. The other issue you could have if you're tuned is that it doesn't go into "fuel shutoff mode" during coasting down. Hope I've given you somewhere to start.... Not sure if you've used the coolant bleed technique or not, but thought I'd suggest it.
 

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Don't panic MillerTime, this is actually a common problem with the solstice and an easy fix. there is a TSB about it. The cooling System gets air bubbles and interferes with the coolant flow. the fix is to install a GM bleeder valve. its a very simple procedure and the valve is fairly inexpensive ($7-$28 depending on shipping charges and where you by from. I wrote up instructions and posted them here:

http://www.cherod.com/solstice/HowTos/Overheating.htm
 

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Discussion Starter #53
They probably did a coolant change on it. If it wasn't done correctly, you will have to "burp" your car. Search the forum, there's thousands of posts on it. Also ddmworks.com will have information on how to burp the car. After that's done, see how it does. I would recommend doing this at least twice if it still continues. After that it's time to look at more expensive repairs.



Did you do the WP? Is it burning coolant (usually will get white smoke out of exhaust and it should smell sweet)? My other question, you said you're calling for heat when it heats up that much and you aren't getting any heat....right? No oil in the coolant or vice versa...right? Are you tuned? If so, they might have your timing advanced too much causing the car to heat up....just a thought. The other issue you could have if you're tuned is that it doesn't go into "fuel shutoff mode" during coasting down. Hope I've given you somewhere to start.... Not sure if you've used the coolant bleed technique or not, but thought I'd suggest it.


Thank you for the post. The car is 100% stock other than wheels. I did do a bleed on it during the wp replacement. I also did it like the video by raising the reservoir. No white smoke out of the back. I get cold air in the heater even when the car is 180+. Which one is the coolant burp? The one where you squeeze the large hose, then pinch the return hose, then let go of the large hose for coolant to go in instead of air? Or is it the raising the reservoir? Also no noticeable oil in the coolant vice versa. A buddy of mine did a pressure test at 15lbs and it went back down to 11lbs. But I think he did it wrong. He did it when the car was hot but turned off. Which means the car is cooling down and pressure should be going down. Shouldn't a pressure test be don't when the car is at a constant temp to see if it looses pressure. We'll be taking out the spark plugs soon to see if there is any coolant in there. It's just so stressful :( I just want to put the top down and cruise on this amazing Florida winter lol


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Discussion Starter #57 (Edited)
A blocked heater core will not cause the engine to overheat. It just means that you will never get warm air for yourself.


Ok. So I just did another burp and the raise the reservoir method. Now the coolant level is a little below the cold line. Which means yes I'm loosing coolant slowly? I just drove it and it got up to 220 degrees again. Didn't see any leak unless it's being pooled in the metal pan below.


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"my thoughts"

your entry price seems pretty good! my concerns are whether or not your handy enough to do most of the "minor fix/repairs" yourself.

there are a "ton" of high mileage solstice's out there....so parts will be available for a long time. although some of the "neat stuff" is getting hard and almost impossible to find.

buy the car...enjoy it! your price range is such that you can flip and still come out right side up:)

i own two (2).... both 07's. one is a 5 speed auto and other is manual. my driver has 42,000 miles and my investment has 18,000 miles. both gap's!

ton of fun to drive!
IGIFM
 
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