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'06 Pontiac Solstice
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First off - Hi, I'm new! Google searches of misc. problems have often led me here over the last several months, so I made an account a week ago.

I'll outline my actual problem below just incase anyone has some insight they'd like to share with me (much appreciated), but I'd like some help locating the TPS on my vehicle. '06 base manual.

I'm having a high rpm issue. I've searched the forum for previous cases, and have cleaned the MAF sensor (I did also just recently change the air filter anyway). I've taken it to a local mechanic I've worked with before for a tune up a couple of days ago and also presented the issue to him. Originally, it started out as high rpm when shifting from any speed/gear to neutral (like coming to a stop at an intersection). It would jump to about 1500 rpm before settling back down after several seconds. The mechanic cleaned the throttle body for me as part of the tune up, and it's much worse now - Just starting the car has it shooting past 2500 rpm, with fluctuations. If I slip the clutch to force the rpm down, sometimes I can get it to idle at ~900 rpm where it should be. If it does settle down to normal, any touch of the accelerator will start the process over. The mechanic said that the throttle body is most likely the problem, and that if after some time for the ECM to "re-learn" I should replace it if the problem persisted. So, I bought a throttle body, and replaced it myself. No improvement.

I thought to clean the contacts on the TPS next. After that, I'm not sure of where to look next. I'm thankful for any help offered, and thank you.
 

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First off - Hi, I'm new! Google searches of misc. problems have often led me here over the last several months, so I made an account a week ago.

I'll outline my actual problem below just incase anyone has some insight they'd like to share with me (much appreciated), but I'd like some help locating the TPS on my vehicle. '06 base manual.

I'm having a high rpm issue. I've searched the forum for previous cases, and have cleaned the MAF sensor (I did also just recently change the air filter anyway). I've taken it to a local mechanic I've worked with before for a tune up a couple of days ago and also presented the issue to him. Originally, it started out as high rpm when shifting from any speed/gear to neutral (like coming to a stop at an intersection). It would jump to about 1500 rpm before settling back down after several seconds. The mechanic cleaned the throttle body for me as part of the tune up, and it's much worse now - Just starting the car has it shooting past 2500 rpm, with fluctuations. If I slip the clutch to force the rpm down, sometimes I can get it to idle at ~900 rpm where it should be. If it does settle down to normal, any touch of the accelerator will start the process over. The mechanic said that the throttle body is most likely the problem, and that if after some time for the ECM to "re-learn" I should replace it if the problem persisted. So, I bought a throttle body, and replaced it myself. No improvement.

I thought to clean the contacts on the TPS next. After that, I'm not sure of where to look next. I'm thankful for any help offered, and thank you.
Welcome to the forum. There is certainly a lot of information here. Some of it is even correct!

This is the procedure for getting the ECM and throttle body to learn the correct idle setting:

Start and idle the engine in park (or I presume, neutral) for 3 minutes.
Monitor the desired and actual RPMs with a scan tool.
RPM should begin to decrease.
Ignition off for 60 seconds.
Start and idle the engine in park (or I presume, neutral) for 3 minutes.
After 3 minutes the engine idle should be normal.
If the engine idle speed has not been learned, drive the vehicle above 44 MPH with several decelerations and extended idles.
If the engine idle speed still has not been learned, turn the ignition off for 60 seconds and repeat the process from the beginning.

IMPORTANT: If the check engine light comes on during the cycle with idle speed DTCs, clear the codes to allow the ECM to continue to learn.
 

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IMPORTANT: If the check engine light comes on during the cycle with idle speed DTCs, clear the codes to allow the ECM to continue to learn.
Thank you for your reply. The last part in particular really stood out to me - The check engine light is only on when the key is set forward 1 position, to ACC or something. The code was P0507 , or "Idle Air Control".

If that code is being thrown, the ECM will not attempt to calibrate?
 

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Thank you for your reply. The last part in particular really stood out to me - The check engine light is only on when the key is set forward 1 position, to ACC or something. The code was P0507 , or "Idle Air Control".

If that code is being thrown, the ECM will not attempt to calibrate?
That is the way I read the instruction.
 

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Thank you for your reply. The last part in particular really stood out to me - The check engine light is only on when the key is set forward 1 position, to ACC or something. The code was P0507 , or "Idle Air Control".

If that code is being thrown, the ECM will not attempt to calibrate?
P0507 reads: Idle Speed High

The code will set every 15 seconds if the engine is running 100 RPM or more over the desired speed, so you may have to reset it several times during the procedure.
 

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P0507 reads: Idle Speed High

The code will set every 15 seconds if the engine is running 100 RPM or more over the desired speed, so you may have to reset it several times during the procedure.
Thank you. I'll try this tomorrow and hopefully it'll get sorted out. :)
 

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Learn procedure is free, so try that first.

Just went through this on an LE5 HHR. Swapped throttle bodies with my Solstice. Problem followed the throttle body; HHR fixed, Solstice has idle issues. New throttle body on the way ~$180 from Rock Auto with no core.
 

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Welp, no good news so far.

The mechanic I see gives free diagnostics. I don't have a tool to remove the diagnostic error codes from the ecm, so I couldn't do this process myself.

I took it to him this morning and we both underwent the above procedure. Nothing. Left it with him for a few hours for him to call me back to say "I have no idea." MAF sensor and TPS are fine. Throttle body is new, so it's fine. No vacuum leaks, either. Even at 0% idle, the butterfly valve in the throttle body stays open, with some fluctuations. He's going to try flashing it tomorrow. He'll charge me only if it fixes it.

The ecm DOES know where the idle should be - Putting it in gear and slowly letting off the clutch will obviously force the rpms down as it engages. If you hold the clutch's position where the rpms drop under 1k for several seconds, sometimes you can return it to neutral and it'll idle right where it needs to. Until you breathe on the accelerator. Last night I repeated this, and tried tugging on any connectors (and their wires) for the MAF, TPS, and throttle body to try and see if something was loose, etc while it was idling normally. Couldn't get the rpms to deviate from ~900.
 

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How did this problem start? It is going just like one on the Sky forum and he ended up replacing the ECM.
 

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How did this problem start? It is going just like one on the Sky forum and he ended up replacing the ECM.
It started when I would come to stops and shifting out of gear to neutral. The rpm would rise up to a max of 2k and then slowly fall. It would start and idle just fine. Then I took it in for a tune up, and brought the problem up with the mechanic. Tune up done, cleaned the throttle body. Problem escalated after that.
 

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It started when I would come to stops and shifting out of gear to neutral. The rpm would rise up to a max of 2k and then slowly fall. It would start and idle just fine. Then I took it in for a tune up, and brought the problem up with the mechanic. Tune up done, cleaned the throttle body. Problem escalated after that.
Had you done anything to the car prior to that? Washed the engine bay? Jump started it or another car? It seems like an unusual occurence without some trigger.
 

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Had the same problem with a Nissan once. turned out I had done two things wrong. I cleaned the throttle body with a solvent that was able to penetrate into the throttle body along the butterfly shaft and I moved the butterfly with my finger to clean it. In the process I had mechanically damaged the inner workings of throttle body. this may not even apply to your problem but I ended up with a new throttle body.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Had you done anything to the car prior to that? Washed the engine bay? Jump started it or another car? It seems like an unusual occurence without some trigger.
A couple weeks back I took it through a car wash for the first time. I admit, I didn't notice the problem until afterwards. Although I'm not sure how long afterward. After the wash, I had pulled it to one of the many vacuums they have for use to, you know, vacuum. When I tried to leave, I depressed the clutch to start the engine once with no response. It was just fine the second attempt, and chalked it up to not fully depressing the clutch (I did need to re-adjust the seats pre-post cleaning).

I do clean under the hood once in awhile, but only with a slightly damp rag, never with a flowing water source.
 

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I would not expect a car wash to get to the ECM or the throttle body, although the ECM is right in the outer fender.

Have you had the ECM out of the car? It might be worth disconnecting it to check for moisture in a connector.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
I would not expect a car wash to get to the ECM or the throttle body, although the ECM is right in the outer fender.
That's the consensus I came to as well. Although now that I think about it, it would be my luck lol. I've ran it through the same wash again since then. I did notice a small leak in the soft top window somewhere, but that's unrelated... I'll need to have at that before the end of summer.


Have you had the ECM out of the car? It might be worth disconnecting it to check for moisture in a connector.
No, I haven't, but that's a fantastic idea. Car's with the mechanic right now to have the ecm flashed. If that doesn't work, then I'll need to investigate the ecm further. Thankfully, if it does need to be replaced it's not an awfully large expense. But I'll definitely check for moisture first.

It's strange to me that the ecm is largely exposed. If enough water were to flood the cowl at once I see no reason why it couldn't overflow over it.
 

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Welp, good news is that flashing the ecm seemed to do the trick! It's behaving itself for the time being.
 

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Welp, good news is that flashing the ecm seemed to do the trick! It's behaving itself for the time being.
That is good news. Now we will forever wonder what happened.
 

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That is good news. Now we will forever wonder what happened.
There was also a diagnostic ran on my ecm. Apparently its a bit on the "slow" end. There's a notable delay between functions. In the future, I might think about swapping it for an aftermarket ecm.

I did also check the connections for moisture and everything seemed dry.
 
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