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I need to put new brakes on my daily driver coupe with GMPP tune. About 45k miles on the car...

OEM brakes ?

must I do rotors at the same time ?
( I've read that the racing guys do... )
 

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Why not upgrade ? Hawk and EBC are just two manufactures of brake pads that come to mind as for the rotors my experience with the ones that come on newer cars is that they are throwaways . By that I mean that they are specifically manufactured thinner than the older ones to reduce weight I believe and cannot be safely turned down.Add in the fact that a lot of places that did this stopped the practice so it's tough at times to find someone who will turn down newer rotors . I have ceramic pads ,drilled and slotted rotors ,stainless steel brake lines and just did a flush with Dot 4 synthetic noticeable difference .
 

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You run a high risk of serious brake shudder if you throw new pads on previously bedded rotors, particularly if they are a different compound. Maybe they clean up after a while, maybe not. They certainly won't work as well for quite some time.

And if you can find somewhere that still turns rotors, it usually doesn't save you much money over just replacing them. And the vanes still look like garbage afterwards.
 

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FWIW I put Hawk HPS and HP+ staggered on my stock rotors and have had no problems. For a street car I'd just put HPS pads on and call it a day.
 

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I put Hawk pads on my car at about 25k miles. Great improvement. No issues. Unless you have visible wear on the rotors, turning is not required in my opinion or experience.
 

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I tried Hawk HPS on the summer Solstice (daily driver, stock rotors) with poor results. After a few months they got noisy, grinding for the last few car lengths before stopping. It cost several Hundred $$$ to have it fixed, and now it is happening again. I may try EBC Green but my opinion is stick with stock unless you are racing.

Full Stoptech setup (pads and rotors) on the winter Solstice are doing fine.
 

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Interesting
Mine have been on my LS3 for 10k miles with no issues. Just greatly improved performance and feel. I wonder why you had a different experience? Different pads?
 

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Last April i had Raybestos EHT 1028H Pads put on the front while i had the brakes flushed. So far very happy with the results. They got put to the test at the 2018 NASSAM Rally on that Mondays group ride.
 

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Should also point out that if you're not one to go crawling around under your own car and do regular check-ups it's more than possible to have a rotor rust through beyond use. I got my GXP as an 11 year old car with 65,000 miles and all original brakes. The first owner didn't drive it a lot, but it was driven through salt, snow and rain and this was one of the rear rotors I removed:
 

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I need to put new brakes on my daily driver coupe with GMPP tune. About 45k miles on the car...

OEM brakes ?

must I do rotors at the same time ?
( I've read that the racing guys do... )
Really, 45K and you need brakes? I'm still on the OE's at 115K. You sure you need new brakes (pads only, right?)?
 

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Should also point out that if you're not one to go crawling around under your own car and do regular check-ups it's more than possible to have a rotor rust through beyond use. I got my GXP as an 11 year old car with 65,000 miles and all original brakes. The first owner didn't drive it a lot, but it was driven through salt, snow and rain and this was one of the rear rotors I removed:
Oh my!!!!!
 

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Really, 45K and you need brakes? I'm still on the OE's at 115K. You sure you need new brakes (pads only, right?)?
I've never had a set of pads last more than 10k miles on a sports car.

I think one of us is doing it wrong. :)
 

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FWIW, I've put new pads on other cars with questionable rotors with no discernible ill effects. The pad will wear (fairly quickly) to match the rotor. It's not ideal, but replacing rotors just because you're replacing pads is a waste of money.

That said, you can get OEM rotors for cheap online. On my 'Vette, the dealer wanted $130/corner for rotors. I got OEM rotors, shipped, for $40 each.
 

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After a miserable drive from Denver to Telluride and back I recently replaced front pads/rotors on my Maxima. The set that was on the car looked fine to the eye, however they were warped badly and the car would shake violently upon braking at high speed. Coming down mountain passes was nearly unbearable. Since braking was so horrible I kept the transmission in 4th on the way down. Interestingly enough my automatic transmission dipstick somehow popped open slightly (I'm assuming from the fluid overheating from driving up and down the passes in 4th gear) and I lost 2 quarts of fluid.

I could of had the rotors turned for $10/ea at O'Reilly's but Advanced Autoparts has every day free shipping and 20% off online orders so I ordered the best rotors they had for just $39 each before the 20% off.

All it takes is a few sudden slams on the breaks to warp the rotors in different spots. Usually cars in accidents see this from the abrupt stops....I've never been in an accident in my life.....maybe I'm just good at abruptly stopping, hah.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
thanks to all for your input.

yes, 45k miles. Two different techs mentioned that brakes will be needed real soon.


SO, rotors for our cars are readily available ?
 

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Rotors should not be a problem get them at the local auto parts store (they may have to get them from the warehouse ) always available on Ebay and if you want a set of performance type just google Solstice Rotors and you will have a list of vendors who stock them .
 

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I bought the full Powerstop kit #KOE1434 from Amazon when I did mine. Includes all four rotors, ceramic pads, hardware and caliper grease for $160. It's listed on Rockauto for only $150 but their shipping made it more than Amazon.

Not "top of the line" quality, but I've never had an issue with the Powerstop kits. My general rule of thumb when buying brakes is if the company selling them has the common sense and decency includes new hardware they should be good enough. Well, that and never buy a cross-drilled rotor that costs less than $300 a piece. ;)
 
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