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Hey guys, hope you can help a newbie. I have an 06 2.4L stick with about 13,000 miles on her. Upon initial startup, I get valve train clatter for 3-5 seconds. After that, no noise. I suspect the hydraulic tensioner. Anyone ever changed one? Is it a matter of just unscrewing the old one and putting in a new one, or does the front of the engine need to be opened up. Thanks in advance
 

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Hey guys, hope you can help a newbie. I have an 06 2.4L stick with about 13,000 miles on her. Upon initial startup, I get valve train clatter for 3-5 seconds. After that, no noise. I suspect the hydraulic tensioner. Anyone ever changed one? Is it a matter of just unscrewing the old one and putting in a new one, or does the front of the engine need to be opened up. Thanks in advance
Welcome to the forum. :thumbs:

From my experience with the engine, it has one of the louder valve trains I've ever heard. Not quite like a Porsche 911 sewing machine style noise, but none the less very noisy in a good way....

However, you have said that it quiets down, so I'll assume that you are not referring to the normal valve train noise.

Well, I'm sure some other folks with more direct experience will comment, but if it's quieting down, then it's probably working normally. I would say that if the time to quiet down extends substantially... or if it doesn't quiet down after a few seconds, then there may be a problem.

Again, I'm sure there will be several posts with more insight into your symptom.

How about it folks? Any additional advice for our new forum member?
 

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If joining in Jan., 09 makes him a 'new member' then I'm still crawling! LOL! :eek:

Only advice that I can add is to be sure that the crankcase is filled with a good 5W30. :thumbs:
 

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If joining in Jan., 09 makes him a 'new member' then I'm still crawling! LOL! :eek:

Only advice that I can add is to be sure that the crankcase is filled with a good 5W30. :thumbs:
Often folks don't post for a long while after joining. This was his first post, hence the welcome message... We do try to be friendly, don't we? ;)

Yogi makes a very good point. If you do not use a 5w30 oil, using instead a 10w30, or worse a 20w50, then you will get a substantial amount of valve noise until the oil is able to get into the tight clearance areas.

It is in point of fact true that the largest amount of engine wear does occur at start up, before when the oil has yet to be pumped into all of the clearance gaps. That's why it's important to have an oil that is a 5w30. The numbers mean that it behaves like a 5 weight oil (not thick) at cold temperatures, and a 30 weight oil (normal engine oil viscosity) when heated to engine operating temperatures.

I have experienced that some repair shops will put 10w30 or worse, 15w30 into your car because that's what they have in their "on-tap" system coming out of a giant drum pumped through a pipe into a filling spout that looks like an over-grown mixed drink dispenser at your local watering hole. They think, "It's close enough." In truth, it's not. You need real 5w30 for the Solstice engine.

You can buy your own Mobil-1 5w30 and take it with you to the shop and have them use your customer provided oil when you get your oil changed. That way you'll know with greater certainty that you have the correct oil in the car.

I agree with Yogi, an oil change with real 5w30 might be in order as a first step. Thanks, Yogi! :thumbs:
 

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Hey guys, hope you can help a newbie. I have an 06 2.4L stick with about 13,000 miles on her. Upon initial startup, I get valve train clatter for 3-5 seconds. After that, no noise. I suspect the hydraulic tensioner. Anyone ever changed one? Is it a matter of just unscrewing the old one and putting in a new one, or does the front of the engine need to be opened up. Thanks in advance
It's not quite as simple as unscrewing and re screwing the part...the new one will need to be "reset", then screwed in and torqued...after that the procedure require that you remove the Cam/valve cover and use a long slender non-ferrous tool and hammer to strike the chain and tensioner to release the loading spring. If you don't do this, the chain will not tighten, and may jump teeth.
 
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