[jeffs]

The driver's side top side tension cable end has broken. This cable pulls the top down behind the window when the buttress is lowered and snapped into the trunk lid. Somewhat of a Rube Goldberg affair with a steel cable, springs and a pulley.

The part is available for about $40 (p/n 19120673), but I am guessing 2 to 4 hours of labor is required.

Anyone else had this problem and replaced it themselves? Thanks.

 

[stuck]

It's not as difficult as it looks. Took me less than an hour to do both. GM Parts Direct has them for $32.

 

[jeffs]

Thanks
Were you able to get the buttress part of the top off of the frame?
Did you drill out the rivets?
Did you use steel pop rivets to replace those?

 

[stuck]

Ooops. Sorry, I thought you were talking the trap door cable. Haven't seen anything on that cable in the rear. Check with shreve1, he's been in the guts of the top and might be able to point you in the right direction. Thought there was a how-to in here, but I couldn't find it.

 

[Teresa H]

Did you ever get this fixed? Any hints?

 

[SARBlade]

I too would like to know! It seems Teresa and I have same problem! I would ask anyone who may have experience with this. Are rivets drilled out? Thanks

 

[jeffs]

I was able to successfully repair this. You have to loosen the top enough to get the "arm" inside the main top. There are many rivets to drill out (the part includes replacements).

Hints-

1) There is a plastic tab that is sewn into the corner of the top. I cut the stitching to get it out and used a couple of extra rivets to re-attach.

2) There are cables that go forward and backward. I only had to fix the rear, so drilled the rivets in the new part and discarded the new front cable. The existing front cable was riveted to the new tab.

3) The tab slides in a curved track bolted to the top frame. I needed to remove the track for disassembly / reassembly. I broke the first replacement tab trying to force it. Bad words invoked.

4) Some of the rivets are fairly inaccessible and I had to use some extra washers with my tool to get the tool to align with the rivets for a proper install. The tool has a fairly flat work surface that needs a similar surface to push against. Works great in an open work area.

5) My cable broke where the cable attaches to a spring at the end of the "arm". I discarded the new spring and attached to the existing spring. The foam tape wrapping this point was destroyed so I used a small piece of duct tape. No repair is complete without duct tape!

 

[SARBlade]

I was able to successfully repair this. You have to loosen the top enough to get the "arm" inside the main top. There are many rivets to drill out (the part includes replacements).

Hints-

1) There is a plastic tab that is sewn into the corner of the top. I cut the stitching to get it out and used a couple of extra rivets to re-attach.

2) There are cables that go forward and backward. I only had to fix the rear, so drilled the rivets in the new part and discarded the new front cable. The existing front cable was riveted to the new tab.

3) The tab slides in a curved track bolted to the top frame. I needed to remove the track for disassembly / reassembly. I broke the first replacement tab trying to force it. Bad words invoked.

4) Some of the rivets are fairly inaccessible and I had to use some extra washers with my tool to get the tool to align with the rivets for a proper install. The tool has a fairly flat work surface that needs a similar surface to push against. Works great in an open work area.

5) My cable broke where the cable attaches to a spring at the end of the "arm". I discarded the new spring and attached to the existing spring. The foam tape wrapping this point was destroyed so I used a small piece of duct tape. No repair is complete without duct tape!

Awesome! Thanks for the info, and "gotchas". I going to tackle this when I get home in 10 days. I'm going to document with pictures and follow up here with them. You don't per chance have the part number for this piece? Is it part #11 in the diagram.

 

[jeffs]

I only did the left/drivers side.
Convertible Top Cable / Tension Cable Left 19120673
List $57.55, I paid $41.44 plus shipping from gmpartscounter.com

 

[SARBlade]

I only did the left/drivers side.
Convertible Top Cable / Tension Cable Left 19120673
List $57.55, I paid $41.44 plus shipping from gmpartscounter.com

Awesome,that's what I thought. Mines the right side of course. Cheers

 

[Z man]

Broken plate on Solstice convertible top.

The part number 19120674 is the side cable assembly but does it include the little 1 inch by 2 1/4 inch corner plate that is attached to the top to keep it from flapping out? Dealer said it doesn't and I need to buy a new top for this little plastic plate at $1800.

 

[jeffs]

If you are asking about #11 in the exploded view above, then yes. The plastic "slide" has a cable that goes to the front and a cable that goes to the buttress. This part fits in a track at the rear of the door window.

 

[Uversetech]

I only did the left/drivers side.
Convertible Top Cable / Tension Cable Left 19120673
List $57.55, I paid $41.44 plus shipping from gmpartscounter.com

Anyone know where I can still buy this part? GMPartsCounter.com is no longer a functioning site.

 

[rob the elder]

These guys say they have the left hand cable. Am testing now

Product Details | SimplePart (oemgmpartscenter.com)