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I'm glad to hear you did the O-ring checks and applied the grease. I finally did away with the greasing of O-rings and installed gaskets under the units for a permanent fix. The grease migrates after a while because of the pressure, but the gaskets don't fail. I have had no further problems and my boost is instantaneous and consistent at 20 psi when I push at full throttle. Cold start is smooth and idle comes down with just a tap of the gas pedal. Any bypass of the O-rings will affect running, but may never throw a code since it may still be within the programed parameters. I offered to make gaskets at no cost for those who requested them as well as instructions re. making 2 additional brackets for the Bosch MAPs (1 bolt hold-downs). They are needed to apply even pressure on the gaskets that is not achieved with just one bolt. My car has never run better!
grandpop07
 

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2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP
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Chances are you didn't bust that nipple, It was already cracked and it finally broke. If the air cleaner box gets opened up and that hose is not disconnected when the lid of the air cleaner gets moved it puts a lot of stress on that nipple.
 

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I do not remember the size of the o-rings for the Intake Pressure sensor or the TMAP sensor. The EVAP purge valve is pretty inexpensive, I would just replace the purge valve and it will come with a new O-Ring. The O-Rings that came with my upgraded pressure sensors were monsters. had to work at them a bit to get them onto the sensors and also getting the sensors installed into the car. These things would have to be completely dry rotted before they would leak.

It is also easy to test to see if that is what is causing an issue. When the car is at a normal idle use brake-kleen and lightly spray the area where the sensors make contact with the engine or the intake pipe. If the rpm's jump up you have an air leak. You can do this same test on all of the connections from the engine to the MAF sensor at the air box. Do it when the car is cold and tap the accelerator to get the idle to kick down. You do not want to spray the brake-kleene near a hot exhaust manifold. You can also hit the connections for the vacuum lines running from the engine to the turbo. If the RPM's jump up there is an air leak. You can do that test easy enough. Starter fluid also works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
Ok so last week I ordered a cheap smoke machine from Amazon. Arrived Thursday and I put it to use today.


I'm seeing a fair amount of smoke come from the turbo wastegate solenoid? The one under the turbo intake.
Just want to consult with you guys first that this isn't the wastegate purging normally. It seems to leak weather I open or close the solenoid using the tech2win. I do hear it click when activating it.
It does look like it comes from the solenoid though or one of the hoses right there.
I'm guessing I'll have to teardown and inspect that area.

EDIT: turns out I was seeing smoke from the intake hose connection. When isolated, the solenoid has no smoke, it must have been coming out the underside of the intake. Going to reinstall and test again.

Also had a slight leak on the connector where my intake nipple repair is. Looks like it's not my repair, but the connection of the two parts. I added some silicone grease on the o-ring and it seems to have resolved it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Not sure why, but no matter how hard I try to clamp down the hose clamp on the turbo inlet, I still get smoke escaping. Checked the hose itself and it has no cracks or leaks. Not sure if the hose itself has some warping to it or why it won't seal completely.
Anyone have any suggestions aside from replacing the worm clamp to a t-clamp?
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
So a quick update after smoke testing and putting it all back together.
I really didn't see any leaks anywhere else but I also put silicon grease on the other couplers on the hoses that connect the evap solenoid going out of the driver's side of the engine.

Last drive cycles have been like this:
1st - limp mode at start, woke up within about .5 miles and running good.
2nd - key cycled at a stoplight to test it - if it was in limp, it was only for a short while because when I floored it it gave me full boost
3rd - cold startup sounded very smooth, ran with full boost full drive similar to last cycle
4th-8th - warm and cold startups - all with full boost the whole drive.

Previous to this it had been consistently starting up in limp mode

So perhaps I have the problem resolved? Will continue to drive and monitor and follow up with results.
 
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