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Discussion Starter #1
Can anyone explain the pros and cons of the Trifecta select-a-tune? I use my cruise control often so I don't want to use that to switch on my tune. neither do I want to mess with the traction control. Why would anyone want to turn off the Trifecta tune anyway??
 

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Can anyone explain the pros and cons of the Trifecta select-a-tune? I use my cruise control often so I don't want to use that to switch on my tune. neither do I want to mess with the traction control. Why would anyone want to turn off the Trifecta tune anyway??
There may be times that you want less power, eg: someone else driving it, a valet parking it, etc. There was also a concern during the warranty days about the dealer discovering it, but i don't know if turning it off was sufficient to keep it hidden in any case.

It is not the actual cruise control that enables or disables it, it is the cruise control "enable", and the most common setup is to have it disabled when the cruise control is enabled, since running on cruise does not generally require significant power.
 

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When I got the Trifecta budget tune I ordered it with cruise control select. If I was to do it again I would have it on all the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
When I got the Trifecta budget tune I ordered it with cruise control select. If I was to do it again I would have it on all the time.
What is it that you don't like about cruise control select? Is there ever a time you would want the tune switched off?
 

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I thought it would work the opposite of what it does. I use cruise control all the time and would like the things active then but have the ability to turn it off.
 

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My Trifecta tune kicks in when I turn the cruise ON. I have seen somewhere that they only offer it the other way around, though.

If you are just buying the tune, I'd get it non-switchable. Being switchable was a 'thing' when you are under warranty and didn't want GM finding it, but now it makes no difference and I can't imagine anyone wanting/needing to turn it off.

And a valet can do a lot of damage even with the stock GM tune, if they want to, so I don't see switchability as any effective valet mode. Now if you could get Trifecta to do a constant on performance tune, but switchable to a valet mode where you can only run the engine to, say, 2000 rpm. that might be an idea.......
 

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John,
I'm in the middle of loading the Trifecta tune in my GXP. Yesterday, I up loaded the screen pictures to DDM.When I ordered the tune, I chose the "always on" option to streamline things
Just curious, how long will it take for DDM to send me my new program ?

Nervous
 

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John,
I'm in the middle of loading the Trifecta tune in my GXP. Yesterday, I up loaded the screen pictures to DDM.When I ordered the tune, I chose the "always on" option to streamline things
Just curious, how long will it take for DDM to send me my new program ?

Nervous
The only person who can answer that would be someone at DDM. About all anyone except maybe @[email protected] can say is that DDM has historically been very responsive in all areas of customer support.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It makes sense to keep the tune all the time since the warranty is a thing of the passed. I plan to save this upgrade for the winter since I live in the land of ice and snow. My ride has 60K so I think its time to change all the oils. GM specified GL3 SAE 75W-90 for the transmission which is old fashion out of the ground oil and very hard to find. Even the 2 GM dealers in my area didn't carry it GM#89021806. In the engine, I've been using 10W30 because it never runs in temps below 50 F. I was even thinking of going to 10W40 for a little added protection. What do others run in their machines? I have also purchased a new Delco water pump just to have on hand. I wonder if I should do a preemptive pump change???
 

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Some people disagree, but I'm not as focused on the viscosity difference between 10W30 and 10W40 as I am the different brands of oil. I've had occasion to pull several engines apart at the track, and won't touch another can of Quaker State in my life. On the other hand, I don't think you can go very far wrong with AMS, or Castrol, or Mobil-1. I also prefer synthetics (again from what I've seen at the track). Maybe the more important thing, whichever brand you pick, is giving the mice a chance to get fully on the treadmill, and don't beat them to death with stupid stuff (like NO COOLANT).
FWIW I'm also a bit skeptical about changing the pump until you see a problem. just my 2 cents' worth.
 

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I've been using 10W30 because it never runs in temps below 50 F. I was even thinking of going to 10W40 for a little added protection.
Owners manual specifically states 5W30. DO NOT change it. This is manufacturer spec and what they've found with tolerances inside the engine and (if you have one) turbos. There's also a reason they say MOBIL1 full synthetic. Our engines don't last long using anything but 100% synthetic and recommended spec weights. I can tell you stories from the GM proving grounds about techs that filled LNF and LTUs up with dino oil by accident. Or 10W40.... They figured it out on the track less then 500 miles later in many cases. But hey, it's your car and your $$$$.
 

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I recall when my dealer contacted me about using Mobil 1 5w30 on my first GXP, when the car was new and under warranty. The question was did I really want the Mobil 1 full synthetic. I told them under no circumstances where they allowed to deviate from factory specifications for any maintenance. The fact they even asked was unsettling. I never saw a reason to not use the factory spec for oil; there was no risk or downside to using it, and I never read any technical discussion here that suggested that the recommended oil was deficient.

I agree with Ghost 100%- deviate from that engine oil spec very much at your own risk and in my opinion, against the judgment of the people that designed the engine. Do it, if ever, after careful consideration of the engine on a very technical basis, stemming from the LNF engine and it's systems, materials, and your intended usage, not on experience with any other engine.
 

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Well, live and learn. After reading the new posts above, I decided to do a little research. After looking at the AMSOIL, Royal Purple, Mobile 1, and Kendall sites, I noticed that their sites tend to agree with some of the more recent articles on oils and viscosity. Probably some/many of you already know this. Lower viscosity is better in new engines (0W30 or 5W30). Higher viscosity is better for the engine as the wear factor begins (10W30, for example). You can generally expect a marginal increase in gas mileage with a lower viscosity oil. However, extreme usage engines (turbos and superchargers) are recommended to use either of the lower weights mentioned above, regardless of age. Living in a warmer climate (except right now when it's DURNED HOT), I always thought higher viscosity was better protection against overheating and excessively thin oil. However, in order to be API certified, all oils have to be tested to the same upper threshold - so, at that point, they are all "equal". Except for the fact that each site is pushing their brand, and their combination of special additives, all current generation synthetics get similar customer ratings and have similar oil change frequencies (up to a year of usage). So, considering that all of us have cars that are out of warranty, the conclusion that I'm left with is that the way to go is with either a 5W30 or a 0W30 (if they have that in your area).
 

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..........So, considering that all of us have cars that are out of warranty, the conclusion that I'm left with is that the way to go is with either a 5W30 or a 0W30 (if they have that in your area).
Warranty or not, the best weight oil to use is that recommended by the engine manufacturer.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I've been researching the various performance tunes and have come up with 4 different providers. Trifecta, DDM Works, RPM Motorsport, and GM Performance. Some have various levels or stages. I would like to hear from members who have had experience with any of these companies. Are you satisfied with the performance of the tune? Was the tech. service responsive if needed? What should I look out for when I make my choice? Any helpful advice will be appreciated.
 

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GMPP - OK for the warranty period but leaves a lot of power on the table. Fortunately I insisted on installing the new sensors by soldering rather than crimp connectors. No reason to use it now as other tunes are superior without adding significant risk.

Basic Trifecta - superior to the GMPP and no downside.

Custom Trifecta - well crafted to suit my particular needs and terrific results.

I won't comment on any others that I have no personal experience with.
 

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I've been researching the various performance tunes and have come up with 4 different providers. Trifecta, DDM Works, RPM Motorsport, and GM Performance.
All use the GMPP as a base and are modded versions of it. DDM and RPM both use Trifecta (unless something has changed) which is a modified version of GMPP. Even if you buy HPTuners to do your own, you will use a modified version of the GMPP tune to create your own for what you want. However, unless you're versed with tuning cars, don't even try it.
 
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