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The strut is designed for the Sky trunk lid. To got it on my Sol I had to trim the lid slightly to clear the attachment point. But they work great. I also replaced both torsion bars on my Sol and have pictures in the Punisher thread
 

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Greatgab: what is the distance between the mounting points of the strut?
There are four adjustment holes on both the bottom and top brackets. The range is from 11 to 9 inches with the lid fully open.
 
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I don't understand that statement? What pressure do they put on the t.bars such that it would be an issue?
What I don't like about the hardware store springs is the extreme loading in the lid closed position. The springs are a decent option, and certainly easy to get, but the spring rate is too high for the application and in my case made it hard to get the lid to close reliably.
 

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What I don't like about the hardware store springs is the extreme loading in the lid closed position. The springs are a decent option, and certainly easy to get, but the spring rate is too high for the application and in my case made it hard to get the lid to close reliably.
I agree to a point. It took me a while to find a spring that was completely unloaded when the boot was open and only began to extend when the boot was about halfway closed. The spring I finally ended up with opens the boot and allows me to close it with two fingers on the buttress as I always did. This may sound silly but when you have a weak torsion spring, how do you know which one is the weak one?
 

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The German trunk strut mod is worth it. Easy to install, OEM look, smooth operation and it's adjustable. I have mine cranked up so it will lift the deck with my Kappasphere luggage rack installed.

View attachment 107763
I like that setup! I do have one question. When you say it is adjustable, Do you adjust the strut itself or do have a choice of mounting holes in the brackets to adjust the stroke distance?
 

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I like that setup! I do have one question. When you say it is adjustable, Do you adjust the strut itself or do have a choice of mounting holes in the brackets to adjust the stroke distance?
The adjustment is a combination of strut angle and stroke distance - take a look at the diagram. I'm using the C-4 position that will open and hold the trunk lid with my unloaded Kappasphere luggage rack installed.
107765
 

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My 2008 has a trunk problem. The springs to open the trunk are worn out. I saw a hydraulic arm for it that is made in Germany. I need that website or email address.

Thanks,

;Rick,
Hey guys ! Are those not the same lift arms used on or hood ?? If so the are $35 bucks on amazon.. Great Idea
 

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Hey guys ! Are those not the same lift arms used on or hood ?? If so the are $35 bucks on amazon.. Great Idea
look on the first page of this thread. the german website is on one of the posts. The problem is not in finding the proper lift strut, it is finding the brackets that the lift strut is mounted on. Best site I've seen for lift struts is liftsupportsdepot.com. They have any size, any length, any stroke, and any strength you need. I think SHABBY has the right idea about the brackets. They are not complicated and would be easy to build. I've been looking at struts, 10mm ball attachments, etc.. If you build it yourself, you are looking at $40.00 tops for the whole thing.
 

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Not sure that arm will raise the trunk on it's own. If your torsion bar(s) is/are broken, you need to get them replaced first.
I'd just leave the bars alone and install the lid lifter. Not worth the PITA to mess with the bars, to me anyway... The lifter is adjustable and will lift the trunk lid easily. It will appear to be a power trunk. I installed one back in 2017 and it will hold the trunk open, even with the Kappasphere rack installed (rack empty of course, but won't lift by itself with the rack on the straps. The bars won't do that either. Unbolt the rack and adjust for the weight of the straps and it's magic again). Search for information on this. Money well spent IMHO and an excellent seller to deal with.

Richard Snipes
 

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While I originally found information on the Sky forum, I could not get anyone at the time to really talk about the lid lifter assembly. It fits the Solstice perfectly, at least my 2007 GXP, without any modifications. I've no idea why Rob had to modify anything, but there may have been a running change we are not aware of over the years. They also sell some mighty fine magnetic lifting pucks and the seat belt keepers are well engineered. I have yet to read about anyone who has actually installed a set. Some have bought them though.

The lifter is one of those things where just buying it is easier than trying to replicate or create your own.

Richard Snipes
 

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The lifter is one of those things where just buying it is easier than trying to replicate or create your own.
I have to hand it to the Germans... the kit was an easy install and the brackets are well made and engineered. It just wasn't worth the time or money savings for me to try to fab something on my own.
 

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look on the first page of this thread. the german website is on one of the posts. The problem is not in finding the proper lift strut, it is finding the brackets that the lift strut is mounted on. Best site I've seen for lift struts is liftsupportsdepot.com. They have any size, any length, any stroke, and any strength you need. I think SHABBY has the right idea about the brackets. They are not complicated and would be easy to build. I've been looking at struts, 10mm ball attachments, etc.. If you build it yourself, you are looking at $40.00 tops for the whole thing.
Awesome, Thanks . Keep me posted. I had a broken one on the MIng Blue, and what a Royal Arse Pain..Jack the back end up, remove both tires to remove rear fender skirts, remove rear lamps etc.. all to remove basically the back end of the car.. to get at the trunk torsion bars... what a party !
 

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Great, i'll try to find a similar sized strut and try a diy approach (y)
Being locked in with nothing to do, I solved my weak torsion spring problem. No holes to drill in the car and easy to make and install. Can be installed on either or both sides. I can close the boot with one finger on the butress and when it opens, it now opens about halfway and the torsion bar does the rest. Total cost for 4"x4"x 1/8" aluminum sheet, two small bolts, and one spring,came to about four bucks. Left it unpainted to take the pictures. This one mounted on passenger side.
 

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I like it. Did you make a drawing and are you willing to share it?
I drew up a spec sheet and am enclosing a pic of the spring package with the spring specs on it. (bought at lowes). Also a a few more photos to give you a better idea of how it is built. The larger piece is installed by placing the 3/8" hole on the end of the torsion bar and rotating the piece clockwise, then inserting the small screw to lock it in place, or counter clockwise if making the piece for the drivers side. I made the bends cold with 6061-T6 aluminum. If you heat it to remove the temper, you can make prettier bends than I did. Good thing about aluminum is that with, for example T6 temper, once you bend it you can set it aside for a couple of days and the temper will return to about a T4 or T5. If the aluminum you use is not fairly fresh, it will crack if you bend it cold with bends this small.

My boot would lift about 1/2" to 1" before I made this. Now it lifts about 24" and the torsion bar does the rest.

Anything else you need just holler.
 

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I drew up a spec sheet and am enclosing a pic of the spring package with the spring specs on it. (bought at lowes). Also a a few more photos to give you a better idea of how it is built. The larger piece is installed by placing the 3/8" hole on the end of the torsion bar and rotating the piece clockwise, then inserting the small screw to lock it in place, or counter clockwise if making the piece for the drivers side. I made the bends cold with 6061-T6 aluminum. If you heat it to remove the temper, you can make prettier bends than I did. Good thing about aluminum is that with, for example T6 temper, once you bend it you can set it aside for a couple of days and the temper will return to about a T4 or T5. If the aluminum you use is not fairly fresh, it will crack if you bend it cold with bends this small.

My boot would lift about 1/2" to 1" before I made this. Now it lifts about 24" and the torsion bar does the rest.

Anything else you need just holler.
Great! Thanks!

I think those are the springs that have been recommended and that I thought were too tight in the closed position. I have been thinking about doing this for a while now, but you have saved me a lot of effort.
 
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