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Discussion Starter #1
A few pics to follow, this must get pretty hot, and it's pretty obvious this is getting pretty close (it touches with the red grease I put on there). This is stock except the tube clamps were changed out for the ones that can handle pressures better. It appears to me everything is down tight and as low as it can go, but maybe not? Any opinions, have you seen this close or contact before?







 

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(When it's cold ;)) just remove the metal bracket bolts/screws, loosen the circular clamps and push it down further in to the rubber tubes at each end (probably more into the front one for your issue). Retighten, replace bracket screws. Done.

Note, when you first undo everything, the metal tube will be locked/seized inside the rubber ones. You have to apply some real force and wiggling to break it free. Maybe even pry at the seam/joint with a plastic knife or similar. You can do it!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
(When it's cold ;)) just remove the metal bracket bolts/screws, loosen the circular clamps and push it down further in to the rubber tubes at each end (probably more into the front one for your issue). Retighten, replace bracket screws. Done.

Note, when you first undo everything, the metal tube will be locked/seized inside the rubber ones. You have to apply some real force and wiggling to break it free. Maybe even pry at the seam/joint with a plastic knife or similar. You can do it!
I'll take a look at it, the reason I didn't try this is that at least it appeared to be all the way on. It doesn't look like it's going to be easy to get at that lower tube to hose.
 

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Did you check your hood alignment at the front? If it sits too low, it can rub on stuff like that. Simple fix is to raise the bump stops on the inside of the front part of the hood. Keep in mind this will push the back part of the hood down a bit. But you can raise those rubber bump stoppers on the inside back of the hood too. Just turn them clock-wise or counter clock-wise. Just remember to check your hood gaps after you are done. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Did you check your hood alignment at the front? If it sits too low, it can rub on stuff like that. Simple fix is to raise the bump stops on the inside of the front part of the hood. Keep in mind this will push the back part of the hood down a bit. But you can raise those rubber bump stoppers on the inside back of the hood too. Just turn them clock-wise or counter clock-wise. Just remember to check your hood gaps after you are done. :)

yep, got that covered, it's as high as I want to take it. I really got into the whole hood because I wanted to realign it a hair to the passenger side because the DDMworks foam fender seals I installed would not quite fit right (passenger side would get pulled off at the top because hood was not quite far enough out). Anyway I'm playing with the gaps/alignment after finding the body panel alignment pdf so I'm pretty good with all the adjustments at this point.:thumbs:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
looking closely at it vs. the tube coming back up/out of the intercooler on the drivers side, it DOES now appear like if I can loosen that hose, and if can actually get in there to get enough grip and force, it will be possible to get it down in there another quarter inch or so, which would solve the problem.
 

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Nice I will have to look at that myself on my car. I always just thought this was another one of those things that is "normal" for a solstice. Considering my intercooler has been replaced twice (under warranty) for ballooning it was probably the GM monkeys at the stealership that f'd it up, geee big shocker there huh!:brentil:

(When it's cold ;)) just remove the metal bracket bolts/screws, loosen the circular clamps and push it down further in to the rubber tubes at each end (probably more into the front one for your issue). Retighten, replace bracket screws. Done.

Note, when you first undo everything, the metal tube will be locked/seized inside the rubber ones. You have to apply some real force and wiggling to break it free. Maybe even pry at the seam/joint with a plastic knife or similar. You can do it!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Nice I will have to look at that myself on my car. I always just thought this was another one of those things that is "normal" for a solstice. Considering my intercooler has been replaced twice (under warranty) for ballooning it was probably the GM monkeys at the stealership that f'd it up, geee big shocker there huh!:brentil:
I see you have the T bolt upgrade which I have as well, so whomever installed those 6 clamps likely was the culprit.
 

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I see you have the T bolt upgrade which I have as well, so whomever installed those 6 clamps likely was the culprit.
Believe it or not, the GXP came stock with t-bolts on that hot side pipe, but not on the intercooler or cold side
 

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FYI. that is the Intercooler Pipe.
When I first read the Subject, I thought you were referring to the Elbow that actually bolts to the K04 Turbo.

I like IC pipes that don't have those brackets. They look nicer and sit lower.
 

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FYI. that is the Intercooler Pipe.
When I first read the Subject, I thought you were referring to the Elbow that actually bolts to the K04 Turbo.

I like IC pipes that don't have those brackets. They look nicer and sit lower.
true. In this case I took the easy way out....since it looked like I MIGHT be able to get maybe a quarter inch further into the rubber tube down by the IC, and since I figured that would fight me with the rubber to IC tube being stuck together, getting to the T bolt after getting the horn out of the way, etc., I instead went back up top to the crappy looking bracket. The top one is just an L, 2 bolts and it's off. The lower leg of this bracket I just straightened and rebent a wee bit higher up, making the bracket shorter. Test fit with more grease to check for touching and no longer. There is at least a quarter inch of clearance now, 5 mins. invested and no sweat/swearing.
 

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FYI. that is the Intercooler Pipe.
When I first read the Subject, I thought you were referring to the Elbow that actually bolts to the K04 Turbo.

I like IC pipes that don't have those brackets. They look nicer and sit lower.
Those brackets are better for design reasons. Keeps the tubes from coming off. They are not standard on earlier 07' GXPs. At some point they were added to that side for this reason. I believe all late build 08's and up through 10' came standard with them. The build time(before or after the middle of the year) of the 08' would determine if you got the upgraded t-bolts.
 

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If you have tbolt clamps there will never be an issue.
Ive had my dejon bracketless ones install for 4 years with no issue.
 
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