Two piece prototype Collins and Aikman Dura hardtop

Here is the problem zoomed in.
This first pic is of the top before it was repaired (I have circled in red the original area where the targa bar would close):




And here is that same area now:
Can you see how Norm added to the top to bring the edge out and which now prevents the tagra from closing by touching against the same weatherstripping?

suitup said:

^
Yeah that looks to be the whats causing your issues, but I do wonder then how did norm test fit it after painting and not realised this?

Yeah I saw all those, I meant as youre driving it now, with no targa bar just the top front lol sorry sometimes what I type can be confusing, english is not my first language

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Ahh yes now i understand. To answer your question i am not driving it until my new Blower Control Module comes in and i get it installed.
Took it apart Sunday to diagnose the issue and then left it apart (its a mess) until the nee part comes in.
Here is how it sits in the driveway now
Will post a zoomed out later.

JohnWR said:

I take it you have not gotten any information from Norm?

My thought is that you should focus all of your efforts on the targa bar, if I am understanding correctly that everything else fits together.

I would avoid vehicle modifications at all cost.

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Yup emailed him and awaiting a reply.
I have been going through all the photos and thinking about this and I politely disagree on it being the rear targa bar and here is why (PS> I am in no rush to cut this thing yet and am aware i have everyone else at a disadvantage as I actually have had it in front of me for many hours) :

The original Hard Top has a split/notch that allows a rear trunk mount “Targa Bar” to close down against the existing quarter panel weatherstripping (circled in red) . Where the two pieces meet, when it is closed, now the rear bar cannot close against weatherstripping and now sits atop the main top assembly which itself sits on top of the weatherstripping.
The red circle shows the gap over the weather seal that needs to exist for the rear portion to close:
(these are some early, pre-restoration shots of the area in question)












It appears the area was repaired and the rear edge was brought all the way out flush to the side like this:





Since the rear Targa bar's leading edge should be sitting on top of the weatherstrip the same way the rear edge of the Main hard top does in the photo of the original above, it will not fit as delivered.
Like this:

This added height created by the targa bar not sitting on the weatherstripping would explain the bar being slightly taller than the top as well as noted in this photo:

This is the underside of the Targa bar that need to sit cleanly on the weatherstrip…





So my conclusion is that the outside rear corner edge of the main top needs to be notched out and then sanded and painted more like the first photo of the original.

TomatoSoup said:

I would disagree with you there. I would suggest it would be much easier to cut the notch into the targa bar (at the red circle in your last photo). Much easier to do, much less to cut, and if you do it carefully enough, you might avoid any repaint - just attach a thin rubber strip under the cut notch to both cover the (now bare) fiberglass edge and avoid damage to the main top when installed. Even if you do have to paint, there'll be much less to paint.

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Ok so we have 2 for notch the targa (john and soup).
If i may counterpoint?
Speaking from recent experience (and remember in my case i have a 13 lb targa bar adding tothe discussion on my trunk)
When i close the trunk with enough force to latch it, there is a “rebound” between closing it and releasing the downard force once it latches.
I am not slamming it down but it has always required a little extra effort to close. I experienced this on my first solstice too and assume this is a quirk of the trunk design.

in the version where i notch the top and leave the targa bar as is, the bottom edge of the targa will be closing down against a doubled weatherstripping which provides a fair amount of cushioning leeway.

in the version where i notch the targa bar around the rear “lip” of the hard top, as you noted i will need to add a gasket material, which i think will need to be thicker than you are suggesting to provide enough cushion to 100% prevent it cracking, because of the play in the closing of the top.
Additionally, that closing will be applying pressure on that protruding lip on a fragile corner of the main top (it is probably straight bondo at that corner) which itself is sitting on the double layer of weatherstripping, meaning downward force applied to the least supported corner of the top (it sits on top of a double layer of weatherstripping) My guess is that it would crack pretty quickly.

on the other hand the targa bar is almost all metal skimmed with bondo (as verified by a magnet). So that edge coming down is more likely to survive the forces involved in closing the rear trunk and landing on thr double weatherstripping.

of course i am just thinking out loud here and am enjoying the back and forth

Welp. That settled it. Drove gently to work today with the top on and the paint cracked in the area i was suggesting to notch.

Well, I posted this and then saw what you had added from this morning. I think it still applies.

The brain storming is working through this problem, step by step, point and counterpoint. Go back and read all from the place the assembly attives and is unboxed. Step back from it and let all that's been stated and suggested soak in, even if you think it has, way too much. The solution may be so obvious we are missing it. In thought, not action yet, take away what is not absolutely necessary, bit by bit and see what doing that causes.

Reminds me of trying to get Craig Riggleman's Smoothline Club Racer top on my car. Enough difference between the two there was a gap on the trunk that would not go away. Your top's issues may be a result of the restoration of the prototype and the test mule Norm used. compared to your car...or not.

The underlying fragility you mention...bondo, fiberglass and paint make, to me, radical moves worth thought and caution, given the time and money invested to this point. I see you as being at the polishing the polish stage where the ideal may not be attainable but the function may be exactly what is desired. I hardly ever use the term "good enough" and don't think it applies here.

The weight on the trunk lid from the targa bar should make it close easily. Even with the Kappasphere rack on mine I can close it with two fingers, but I close from the middle forward edge with even downward pressure, "Kawhump" . Closes like that rack or no rack and usually 6-8 inches up from closed. I am interested in seeing other folks' cars at NASSAM for comparison and reference, this is but one example.

John's suggestion may be the least damaging to the concept. I can see how it would take an experienced body craftsman to evaluate and make any changes so the gap lines remain consistent side to side and on top.

Do you plan to leave the trunk lid liner off or cut openings for accessing the attaching bolts and buttress pin locks? Seems to me a careful removal of a section of panel and providing for velcro reattachment would make life easier. You could buy another liner on OEM Factory Parts. They are still available and relatively inexpensive.

I do know that the outcome will be elegant and complete. Be not discouraged. There's potentially a drive from CA to Ann Arbor, MI, for a visit with Bob Lutz. ( and a signature for the one of one Solstice GXP). I think he would approve of you work.

Richard

if the targa isant glass and ou donot feal comfortable trimming it than trim the peice thats already cracked...and since it's cracked it needs triming. that may be the reason why it was the way is was. remember the farext corners always take the most pressure when somethen is flexing and they have the least amount of support. as for your eyes...mine went from 50/20 to **** I cant see squat up close in my late 40's, now at 62(next wed) I cant see squat hear or there...and glasses give me migrains.1 moron eye dr says go to the dollar store and get what works....not 1 perscript from him...( he needs to retire as he is useless) 2 other drs in the aera were clueless& didnt give asquat about what there doing...both gave rong perscriptions....this is the penitily for living in paradice all dr's hear just want to live hear and dont give a squat about anything but getting your $$. so back to the hardtop...nomater what I would have a rubber foam seal the entire length of the rear flange between the targa and it's target location flange of the top. and stay away from the shotgun/glasses( shot glasses.) use the ones for your eyes. eye too have a stigmatizzem most of my life...well thats what the morons said. dubble bubble vision too. it all came very quickley.

So pulled the rods that strap it down in back and put some heat shrink on them full length.
Also added some 1/16th 70 hardness durometer rubber on the side of the trunk metal where they bolt…