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It will be an E67 GM computer and custom harness.
This is the part I'd like to see explained and documented more because it seems to be the most intimidating part of the entire process. Especially if you want keep as much of the OEM systems and options working as possible. For examle; having air conditioning and cruise would be important to me, along with TC/ABS on a V8 car.
 

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I will be using a MegaSquirt 3, which will take the traction control out of the OEM equipment's hands (fully tuneable, because the OEM TC is a bit too stingy). The ABS will work with a few added wires (power, ground, and brake light output). Cruise control, kinda sucks that I will essentially forfeit that, but I can likely hook up an aftermarket box down the line and integrate the steering wheel controls to it. ESC is the only thing I will lose completely, but that's no biggie to me, honestly. I drove around with it off the majority of the time anyway (unless it was rainy, and I don't drive in the rain intentionally).

Looking good JMartz! I am keeping a close eye on this build as I will be undergoing mine soon, though I will be taking a slightly less OEM approach.
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
mkriebs

I'd like to mention a mistake a I made so you can avoid it. I trusted the trans mount I got, cutting the tunnel bracketry as needed to fit the bell housing. When I mounted the motor, I realized the exhaust would not fit, and the isolators were hanging off the back of the motor mounts. i had to modify the tans mount and move its attachment points 7/8 of an inch forward. Have the motor and trans attached and the exhaust installed before you finalize mount locaions.

The tunnel bracket has flanges used by GM for spot welding its sandwich shape. They only need to be cut and the exposed joint rewelded. This does not weaken he structure. The flange is there for the robots to have access to. The engine can indeed fit the 7/8 inch more backwards than I placed it (and would be better for overall balance) but I would have needed to fabricate my own exhaust and motor mounts.

I got those commercially as I am trying to reduce fabrication to a minimum. When you are about to begin, contact me for a discussion. Do keep in mind aftemarket parts NEVER fit w/o some modification. This car is especially problematic as a swap subject, since tolerances are close all over. No surprise putting a V8 into an L4 space.
 

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Thank you for the tips! I am going to utilize the OEM trans for the time being, just to save some cost. I can't quite swing the cost of the TR6060, but when the time comes, that will be my choice. But, this also simplifies the swap.

I own all of the fabrication equipment that I need to fully fabricate almost everything I would need to use, so thankfully, the engine mounts will be a non issue. The trans mount, for the time being, will be a stock trans mount from the early cars that do not have the torque arm set up.

For the rear end, I plan on utilizing a brace that will be coming to market soon (more on that hopefully before summer). If that doesn't come to fruition, I will use a Ford 8.8 IRS with a custom fabricated bracket, its a pretty easy swap.

The engine I am using is the iron block 6 liter (much to the dismay of many people), I wish I could use the LS7, in near stock form the LS7 is kicka$$.

Your build is awesome and I am glad I can follow along with you!
 

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What accessories are you planning to use?
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I got them from Pace. Kit comes complete with all brackets, fasteners and belt. The PS oil pump sits high on the drivers's side. The generator under it. The a/c bracket is from a 2000 Corvette. This mounts a compressor with the refrigerant connections in the back. The PS rack needs the left side oil inlet rotated 90 degrees, to clear the engine pulley and a 1/2 inch of clearance on the right side cross member vertical reinforcement bracket, must be provided, to clear the compressor against the frame.
 

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Awesome, same essential set up I am looking at, however I have no experience with A/C and lines and all that stuff, so I will forego A/C for the time being just to get the car on the road in a more timely fashion. The Pace stuff seems so expensive!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
With spring upon us, we have resumed work on the project. A little bit of material needs to come off the vertical re-enforcement of the passenger side of the front cross member, in order to allow room for the a/c compressor. It fits with nearly zero clearance. We are using OEM rubber mounts and some side-to-side movement is expected. About 3/8 of an inch of clearance in the form of a circle will need to be provided. The engine is shown with its accessories except the PS pump. That cannot be mounted because one its mounting holes is being used to support the engine with a chain. GM is a cheap company. They do not plate or paint quite a few anything. Rust builds up on these. The clutch plate is a mess. Look at the water pump shaft and engine pulley/vib-damp.

The bottom picture (the fuzzy one) shows where the sump drain of the Ls7 rests over the rear cross member. This is not to be confused with the dry sump reservoir drain that points forward and does not interfere with anything. Later this week we will attach the transmission and place it on its tunnel mount, in order ascertain the engine's true angle and final location. I marked a 1.25 inch diameter hole to clear any possible interference, but it may not be at all necessary. The motor is wedged up with a 10mm piece of plywood and the drain bung is not touching. Having the transmission will determine course of action.





 

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I took that hump out completely, actually.

 

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No, I'm using a polyurethane mount, but I'm retaining the ability to go back to a stock mount if the poly is to rough.

 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
There is a bit of confusion regarding the term "motor mount". 3 different things are commonly referred to as "motor mount"; the is the location on the frame (or cross member), the isolator and the motor bracket. You are using the OEM frame mount structures that span the two cross members and mounting the motor with custom fabricated brackets(?) and urethane vibration isolators. Since the OEM frame mounts are offset from side to side, I wonder how you dealt with that.
 

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I consider the whole system as the mount, regardless... I simply made one bracket longer to address the difference in height.

I put the engine in the bay, used wood on the cross member to get the height and left to right angle correct, then shimmed to get the fore and aft angle correct. Assured the engine was centered between the frame rails, then measured for the brackets and let her rip. Was a really simple process actually. This was one I was kinda worried about tackling, but it turned out perfectly.
 

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Sorry JMartz, I don't mean to take over your thread. I think the stock isolators will provide a nice ride for your car, though I do see the issue with the clearance of the exhaust manifold. I know Werks uses the stock isolators in many if not all of their builds, so I wonder if there would be much issue...
 

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Discussion Starter #38 (Edited)
Mkriebs.., please feel free to write to your heart's content on my post. I am using the Werks exhausts headers. The fit with the motor in the correct location. By this I mean, that the motor (and I would have preferred that) could go 3/4 of an inch more rearward, if it were not for these headers. The passenger side is too close to the frame, only 1/8 inch. I am going to have to dimple it or modify the tube. There is plenty or room for that. The driver's side has much tighter turns due to the steering rod. Werks did not provide a bung for the O2 sensor on the driver's side header, citing "no room". I purchased one and found a suitable location for it. Finally the flanges are too large and contacted the water (coolant) temperature sensor. I had to grind off a 1/2 moon to clear it. This is on the driver's side. Since GM uses the same head on both sides, and their robots are not told only one sensor is needed, the threaded hole on the passenger side cylinder head has a plug. This is smaller than the sensor so less grinding is required. Finally, I wasted the $100 I paid for ceramic coating, as it has to be redone after all the modifications.
 

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That's really unfortunate. Do you know the diameter of the tubes? I'm going to be doing 1.75" primaries, I'm afraid I'm going to run into similar issues, but of course, I think spending more time and details on them will provide better results.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Well.., going with the tried-and-true philosophy of acceptance, that no aftermarket part is truly "bolt-on", but rather "easily adaptable", it would have been far more difficult for me to have commissioned a scratch build. The primary tubes on this header are 1 and 7/8. These are not ideal for motors under 450 cubic inches, at least that is what a read in a header discussion at the Ls Tech website. Since I am using an Ls7 crate motor with "D" ports, not wanting fabricate custom exhausts, I opted for the Werks. Of the 505 crank HP this motor is rated at with the Corvette intake and exhaust, I expect to loose 50+ HP from less-than-ideal parts. A "D" shaped port flowing into a round hole will likely cause some undesired turbulence.
 
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