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Wow, yeah those are large! But, theyre intended for more of a universal fit, I guess. As for the D Shape head into round tubing, I think you would be surprised that there won't be much turbulence and not as much loss of power from them as one would expect. It's pretty normal actually to use round tube headers on the D port heads, at least from what I had researched. Not optimal, but not terribly hindering.
 

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Discussion Starter #42 (Edited)
Clearance for the a/c compressor and its refrigerant line to the condenser. We sliced the bracket, took 3/8 of an inch of thickness and replaced it inverted. Needs to be painted.

 

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Hmm, that's a really cool way of doing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #44 (Edited)
After some problems due to my unfamiliarity with Chevy parts (I have been a Ford and Honda guy), I managed to fit the transmission to the engine and adjust the hydrauilc TOB to .156 (the closest I could get it with the supplied washers). RAM requires .150 of clearance between the plate's diaphragm spring "fingers" and the face of the bearing. They indicated to me, that for every .001 inch of disc surface wear, the fingers move .004 inch. The Fidanza aluminum flywheel I installed to kill some of the engine torque (to reduce wheel spin on start up) is painted (which will wear off), and with the initial disc surface slough-off (break-in), the .156 will be reduced somewhat right away. The disk has about .250 of friction material on each side, or .125 per side. The clutch will still operate, after a loss of .039 (.039 x 4 = .156) inches of thickness. By then, the rivets are likely close to exposure and replacement is due. Not sure I like forkless clutches. Having the "slave" cylinder hidden and trapped in the the bell housing seems counterproductive, not mention the fact adjustments are impossible.

Regarding this issue, it is important to note, that in the Kappa, the motor/trans package fits so tightly, that the transmission cannot be easily removed. Some of the bell housing to block bolts are inaccessible. I need to investigate trans removal via the trans to bell housing mating surface, if the top bolts are reachable. Tilting the motor is not likely possible because it is way too close to the firewall.
 

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There are ways to make a clutch master cylinder adjustable. It would take some figuring out, but you need an adjustable master cylinder rod. Not sure if the stock Kappa one can be modified, but I know the T56 ones can be. I think Werks offers one, not sure if it is just for the T56 or if it is for the Kappa regardless of transmission.

Heres the link to it:
http://www.performanceautowerks.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=2044&osCsid=vc3suv16n43f75ir10tboj2ul7

I am sure it's not rocket science, so I am sure you could modify one yourself with some parts from McMaster Carr for about 1/3 the Werks price.
 

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Discussion Starter #46 (Edited)
I tested this clutch already. The Soltice's CMC is able to displace enough fluid to to move the RAM brand TOB's face .400 inch. That leaves me a mere .250 of actual push on the clutch diaphragm fingers. If this is not enough, there is a fix, whereby the CMC is spaced forward some (.250 to .350) and the rod on the pedal move to a location of more travel. This fix, while a little tedious is known to work. Thanks for the link. $300 is a good quick fix and no welding or getting in the car, working up side down.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Motor/Trans pkg. ready to go in. Subtle engine bay mods are visible. Motor mounts, right side front cross member bracket reduction, hole in rear cross member and "C" shaped clearance cuts on tunnel brace. Not really happy about the aftermarket hydraulic TOB. OEM units have hard lines to the outside. No chance of contact with spinning clutch. Flex line designs are potentially dangerous, internal connections could leak and there is no way to access them. This installation is tight and it may not be possible to remove the transmission w/o the engine.



 

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Discussion Starter #48
The motor is in for a test fit. The extended and articulated shifter mechanism made by Sikky uses a GTO (2004-6) ball cup. The one in my transmission is from a Camaro (1993-2002). This ball cup is further forward and does not allow shifting into 2nd, 4th and 6th, because it moves the shift rod back to the end of its articulation travel. The pictures show the good clearance the a/c compressor now has and the hole on the rear cross member to allow extra room for the drain plug casting boss when the soft engine mounts allow the motor its movement.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
E67 computer replaces OEM 4/6 Cyl E69 Bosch ECM. Mounted it to the plastic bracket using nylon screws. The E67 has the car's VIN burned into it, so that when being emission tested the correct ID shows up on the testing equipment. Here in GA, if that number cannot be verified against the label on the windshield, trouble would ensue. The E67 ECM was OEM in the Cadillact CTS-v. A custom Ls7 to E67 engine harness is being built.


 

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Discussion Starter #53 (Edited)
Power Steering Rack and Oil Bottle

The left side oil bung of the steering rack, interferes with the crankshaft pulley of the Ls engine. To clear this interference, the bung was cut off and rotated 90 degrees. To prevent metal shavings from entering the cylinder of the rack, air pressure was applied to the cavity through the hole left after cutting off the bung. A clever idea of my friend Dennis. Pictures are not great. My camera would not focus well today for some reason. If you look closely, the welded hole at the old bung location can be seen on the 1st pic. The hard line for the relocated bung has yet to be coerced into its new location. Just got some tube bending and flaring tools yesterday.







The oil bottle shown does not fit. I accidentally ordered one that has the debubbler, the funnel shaped side piece. This design was used in later model dry sump engines. I have already gotten the right ones and will post pics later. The correct bottle is identical save for the side mounted debubbler. The battery tray will be removed tomorrow to make room for the bottle. A pair of smaller Braille batteries will go in the trunk.





New bottle temporarily installed after battery tray was removed. A little trimming on the top, on the fuse/relay box bracket will be needed for its final fitting. All the load is on the bottom two brackets. Top mount will only be for light side to side affixing.

 

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Discussion Starter #55 (Edited)
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This is a top view of the oil tank showing its PCV lines. Those were OEM 2011 Z06. One side needed modification. The orientation of the hard PCV lines had to be adjusted to aim the plastic PCV lines correctly. Easy job with an adjustable wrench. They rotated easily. The lower end of the tank had to be notched to allow mounting in a lower position and still clear the underbody curve of the side panel. The tank was attached to the frame with two "rivnuts" of appropriate size. Had to get the special tool to flare. Mounting height was an issue, as the hood latch had to clear the top of the tank. The frame or support structure of the side panel, and the panel as well, needed a bit of notching. One aluminum bracket supports the top's side forces. It was made from a 1/8" thick, 1.5 x 1.5, angle; with a hacksaw, files, press and drill. Got some OEM touch up paint to cover my panel cut, which I did with tin snips. The frame I rattle canned.

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The OEM fittings on motor and bottle sides have been converted to AN12. The bottle adapters are evident in picture. Getting the lines to fit will be a challenge. For one the front support bracket is rather close. The tires turns a good bit and I have yet to look with the inner fender installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #56 (Edited)
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This is a view of the underside, where the fuel and vapor lines make their way up towards the engine. The OEM route was through the tunnel area and had to be cut off. A GM style fuel connector was formed using a special tool. The fuel line was made out of nylon braid and aluminum fittings. The vapor line was all plastic.

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This view shows the terminus of the fuel at the motor's fuel rain and the accompanying vapor line. I reused the turbo check valve but mostly as an elbow. The vapor line continues to a solenoid actuated valve controlled by the computer, which is sucked from the plastic intake manifold. There is no dealing with plastic fuel or breather line w/o the special tool to insert.

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The clutch line can be seen going up in the same area. Still need to do something about the dangling bleeder. Hose held with wire ties is chafing protection.
 

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Discussion Starter #57 (Edited)
These next series show the AN-12 nylon braided hoses from the oil reservoir to the engine. The return was looped high to allow fittings on tank to be one up and one down. This was necessary as there was insufficient room due to the steel structure that supports the side panel. The feed line (the lower one) has a 90 degree male/female AN-12, followed by a 120 degree AN-12 to hose. The return line has a 90 degree AN-12 to hose. Given the proximity to the exhaust, the first 8 inches were insulated.

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Thanks for the update, it looks like it is coming along nicely! You make me feel lazy as I am tossing around a 6 speed conversion on my LS2 car (I did not install the LS2) I think I will be purchasing Werks T-56 trans cross member to make the conversion easier. Rereading this tread reminded me of Werks so thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Please post pictures when you get going. Is the Ls2 in your car mated to the stock transmission?
 

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Currently Yes, the AR-5 is having Syncro issues after 24,000 miles. I will be sure to start a new thread with Pictures.
 
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