OBD2 readers are basically any generic readers.
First thing as always...check your battery and grounds. I was driving trying to get "Ready Status" set for inspection and out of the blue I got P0101, P0107 and P2728 (I think) codes. Nothing changed. During this time it ran like crap...entered limp mode...lit the dash,...etc. I found my negative battery cable was not as tight as it could be and once tightened the car ran perfectly like before. I cleared the codes and they have not come back.Yeah. Darn thing started shaking quite violently at idle when stopped today, but it doesn’t shake under load or even when rolling at idle. (driven about 40 miles now since fixing the car, so surprised and unsure if it’s related). I was a ways from home and decided I’d keep driving so long as it didn’t get worse. It did not get worse, but it did throw a code that I’ve now ordered a reader to read it. The code wasn’t instant. It shook like this for a few miles, only when I stopped at lights or signs, before the engine light came on.
I feel bad for the car that I drove it whilst it did that, but it’s in the garage and staying there till I figure it out.
oh and my radio glitched out and 90% of the screen doesn’t work and doesn’t respond to any buttons/inputs.
Just like the triggering of codes, reset varies. It may not reset itself at all, it may reset immediately, or it may take a certain amount of time or number of drive or ignition cycles.When if fix an issue that brought up an engine code, will the engine light turn off by itself? Or is somehow resetting that light going to be something I have to do once I fix what else has gone wrong now?
I doubt so. It worked for about 40 miles before this occurred…. Which does make me think it’s the chain but simultaneously makes me think it isn’t the chain, cause it would have blown up sooner… right? I’m just realizing it’s worked with that bolt in for a while now, until it didn’t….Could it be maybe that the sensor connector was damaged when you broke the sensor? Or the wires.