Water Pump and Timing Replacement

OBD2 readers are basically any generic readers.

Any OBD2 reader will work. I bought a $30 one on Amazon that is perfect. Even reads ready status which I'm having a problem with now.

Yeah. Darn thing started shaking quite violently at idle when stopped today, but it doesn’t shake under load or even when rolling at idle. (driven about 40 miles now since fixing the car, so surprised and unsure if it’s related). I was a ways from home and decided I’d keep driving so long as it didn’t get worse. It did not get worse, but it did throw a code that I’ve now ordered a reader to read it. The code wasn’t instant. It shook like this for a few miles, only when I stopped at lights or signs, before the engine light came on.

I feel bad for the car that I drove it whilst it did that, but it’s in the garage and staying there till I figure it out.

oh and my radio glitched out and 90% of the screen doesn’t work and doesn’t respond to any buttons/inputs.

You should load test your battery. Remember to disconnect both positive and negative cables from the battery before load testing the battery itself. (I think you can load test it at a place that sells batteries).

Also the shudder is typical of a misfire. Let's see what codes your reader pulls. I'm thinking you might have a busted battery.

BillyBigMac said:

Yeah. Darn thing started shaking quite violently at idle when stopped today, but it doesn’t shake under load or even when rolling at idle. (driven about 40 miles now since fixing the car, so surprised and unsure if it’s related). I was a ways from home and decided I’d keep driving so long as it didn’t get worse. It did not get worse, but it did throw a code that I’ve now ordered a reader to read it. The code wasn’t instant. It shook like this for a few miles, only when I stopped at lights or signs, before the engine light came on.

I feel bad for the car that I drove it whilst it did that, but it’s in the garage and staying there till I figure it out.

oh and my radio glitched out and 90% of the screen doesn’t work and doesn’t respond to any buttons/inputs.

Click to expand...

First thing as always...check your battery and grounds. I was driving trying to get "Ready Status" set for inspection and out of the blue I got P0101, P0107 and P2728 (I think) codes. Nothing changed. During this time it ran like crap...entered limp mode...lit the dash,...etc. I found my negative battery cable was not as tight as it could be and once tightened the car ran perfectly like before. I cleared the codes and they have not come back.

Ok. Didn’t even think of that. I’ll check my battery cables and other electronics after the NASCAR north wilksboro qualifying races

With both battery leads confirmed tight it still does it. I tried to get it on video but the video doesn’t really reveal the noise. If I had to describe it, it sounds like a quiet but lopey cam-ed V8. It only does it when warm, when I start the car it doesn’t do it, only after roughly 160F.

i shall once again wait for the previously mentioned code reader to arrive.

what is “load testing” a battery? And how do you do it? What is “ready status”? What were the causes of the codes you mentioned @G-Ram?

Many codes require a certain set of conditions to be set to where they light the Service Engine light, and those conditions may be a set number of occurences, occurences over a set number of ignition cycles, etc, so you will not always get an immediate warning. Severe misfire is always immediate, and will result in a flashing Service Engine light.

Load testing a battery involves connecting it to a special tester that draws a relatively large amount of current to see how healthy it is. It is a step beyong a simple voltage reading.

Ready Status refers to the OBD system and its checks of the operation of the engine. Certain conditions are required for self-tests of the catalytic converter, the evap system, and other pollution control systems. All of these are set to "Not Ready" when a reset is done, and must be changed to "Ready" before the car will pass a smog inspection.

P0101 = MAF Sensor Performance
P0107 = MAP Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
P2728 = Unknown

When if fix an issue that brought up an engine code, will the engine light turn off by itself? Or is somehow resetting that light going to be something I have to do once I fix what else has gone wrong now?

BillyBigMac said:

When if fix an issue that brought up an engine code, will the engine light turn off by itself? Or is somehow resetting that light going to be something I have to do once I fix what else has gone wrong now?

Click to expand...

Just like the triggering of codes, reset varies. It may not reset itself at all, it may reset immediately, or it may take a certain amount of time or number of drive or ignition cycles.

Your code reader will have a reset option, but be aware that it is a universal reset and wiyclesr all codes as well as erasing any freeze-frame data that was saved. Neither of those is the end of the world since they will come back if the problem still exists, but it can slow down diagnosis if you do it before you are actually ready to do it.

P0011 - camshaft timing position sensor. I’m 100% sure I got the timing chain aligned properly, so once again I call into question the tensioner. I just replaced this sensor (it’s the component I broke when I started this thread) so unless it needs to be calibrated I assume it’s probably reading correctly.

However, the bolt that holds it on wasn’t put back in. I used a short bolt that ended up taking the last couple threads out. I put a longer bolt in instead. Is it possible the longer bolt is interfering with the sensor? I don’t know the length of the original bolt.

Could it be maybe that the sensor connector was damaged when you broke the sensor? Or the wires.

agent008 said:

Could it be maybe that the sensor connector was damaged when you broke the sensor? Or the wires.

Click to expand...

I doubt so. It worked for about 40 miles before this occurred…. Which does make me think it’s the chain but simultaneously makes me think it isn’t the chain, cause it would have blown up sooner… right? I’m just realizing it’s worked with that bolt in for a while now, until it didn’t….

I think the ECM would report a different error if the engine jumped timing. Error codes such as the one you are getting are given by the ECM when it senses the signal from the sensor is invalid ie. wildly off the expected value.

Actually just this weekend another member here posted about his engine running very poorly with only one tooth off timing, so... If you clear the code and the car runs OK for a while, you most likely didn't jump timing. It would point to a defective or out of spec sensor (maybe shop sold you the wrong type?) or the wiring.

For what it’s worth, this is no longer high pressure-on a schedule. Thanks to being laid off before this debacle combined with a soon-to-end lease on my apartment I’ll unfortunately be selling some stuff (not the car) moving in here and getting a job in PA. No more Florida :/

Update: It’s either the timing chain skipped a tooth (which I doubt, it and the sprockets are 40 miles new), the sensor went bad (it’s brand new) or the solenoid is stuck open (it’s brand new). So my plan of action: pull the valve cover and look for slack between the cam sprockets in the timing chain. Pull the solenoids and look for chunks of metal. Replace the bolt on the camshaft position sensor (I replaced it several times and think it’s too long, I suspect the bolt may be causing interference with the sensor which is, in response, incorrectly timing the VVT system.) I hope that’s it, that’s an easier fix. I’ll know by tomorrow evening what the results of all of this are and develop a plan forward.

I suspect the fact that it only rough idled once warmed has to do with the fact that it idles at higher revs when it cold starts.

Ok I’m a little dumb. I have repeatedly missed a detail. P0011 is for the intake sensor, which is still stock. I was looking at the exhaust side without thinking about it, assuming I was at fault for this. It’s probably a bad sensor on the intake side

Sensors have failed far less often than solenoids, and one of the failure modes for solenoids is contamination from something in the oil. You have stirred up a lot of oil+wetted componentry, so contamination of the solenoid is something to keep in mind.

Well pointed out John, and Billy did have an issue with the pump chain being overtightened and grinding a little against the guides. This might have introduced small amount of shavings into the oil, which might have found their way to the solenoids and their debris traps.