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For those of you who have had waterpump failure, do you-

A. Engage in spirited driving as in upper RPMs to keep in power band (and for grins), giving the engine a good workout etc. or

B. Enjoy pushing to the limits of adhesion without high revs (also for grins).

Reason for asking; mine is now starting its 6th year on the road, stored winters, 23K mi. and time to refresh the coolant. My dealer does offer the 30K mi. warranty at a price premium of ~$100 over DIY.

If normal (no aspersions) drivers haven't experienced pump failures, ?????????
 

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Invest in the maintenance so that your covered to 60k....it's just insurance. My waterpump repair this last week would have set me back a whooping $1700!!! All because they had to cut the converter off to get at the pump.

Just for the waterpump to be replaced your looking at between 4.2 and 5.0 hrs of labor...depending on the labor time guide the dealer uses.

4.7 hrs x $115/hr = $540.50 just in labor
about $300 in parts for a total of about $850 to do the pump. DO NOT PLAY AROUND!! Get that insurance!!!!!!!!!!!!!

And then when 60k or 3 yrs comes up again, DO IT AGAIN!

I can't stress this enough!!!!! Why would you take the chance of paying $850, when you can pay $150 (or whatever they want for this) now for piece of mind?!?!?

I am a rather "spirited" driver. I don't ever go over the speed limit (okay...maybe once or twice), but I love to watch the expressions on peoples faces as I take off!

If you look at our WPs they look like they were made in 4 different sections then "stamped" or fused together. Mine failed on the very rear section. Mine was leaking for quite sometime before I smelled it (noticed it). I only noticed it because I could smell it. I have a new driveway and it never once leaked on the driveway. But it leaked on my friend's driveway last weekend and "pee'd" out 1/2 gallon of coolant, but barely leaked after that! The tech said that mine had been leaking for quite some time as there was "orange syrup" all over behind it. Heck, I even noticed several weeks ago when my buddy had it on his hoist, but thought it was an oil leak.

With these WPs, it's not if they'll fail....it's when.
 

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glake89- I agree with what the Ghost is saying. Had my 06(NA) cooling system flush a few weeks ago at the GM dealership, car has less than 27,000 miles on it. Cost me $120 to have done. The warranty just stated it has to be changed again within the next 30,000 miles. Can not find where it stated that must also be changed within 3 years.
Will call the dealership to confirm. Since it took me almost 7 years to put on about 27,000 miles. I figure gives me a piece of mind, if anything.
 

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Although I haven't had the waterpump fail in ~70k of absolute abuse (bouncing off the rev limiter, straight tap water/dexcool changes, no remaining plastic air ductwork) I wouldn't hesitate to insure the part in any instance. It's been known to fail and can be a PITA if the chain moves during repair.

What's "~100 over the DIY price?"
 

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With all this waterpump threads it's getting me concerned regarding our 06. Just called my mechanic and he said sometimes having your system flushed can caused problems :(. However, he did end up advising to let dealer do it since they have the proper equipment.

Point trying to make ask/make is; does age of coolant, or is there any proof that the age of coolant have a direct effect on waterpump failure?
 

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Invest in the maintenance so that your covered to 60k....it's just insurance. My waterpump repair this last week would have set me back a whooping $1700!!! All because they had to cut the converter off to get at the pump.

Just for the waterpump to be replaced your looking at between 4.2 and 5.0 hrs of labor...depending on the labor time guide the dealer uses.

4.7 hrs x $115/hr = $540.50 just in labor
about $300 in parts for a total of about $850 to do the pump. DO NOT PLAY AROUND!! Get that insurance!!!!!!!!!!!!!

And then when 60k or 3 yrs comes up again, DO IT AGAIN!

I can't stress this enough!!!!! Why would you take the chance of paying $850, when you can pay $150 (or whatever they want for this) now for piece of mind?!?!?

I am a rather "spirited" driver. I don't ever go over the speed limit (okay...maybe once or twice), but I love to watch the expressions on peoples faces as I take off!

If you look at our WPs they look like they were made in 4 different sections then "stamped" or fused together. Mine failed on the very rear section. Mine was leaking for quite sometime before I smelled it (noticed it). I only noticed it because I could smell it. I have a new driveway and it never once leaked on the driveway. But it leaked on my friend's driveway last weekend and "pee'd" out 1/2 gallon of coolant, but barely leaked after that! The tech said that mine had been leaking for quite some time as there was "orange syrup" all over behind it. Heck, I even noticed several weeks ago when my buddy had it on his hoist, but thought it was an oil leak.

With these WPs, it's not if they'll fail....it's when.
There are at least three water pump numbers out there for the same pump. One is the Pontiac number, one is the Saturn number and one is the Delco number. The Delco pump is identical in form, fit and function and is at least 50% cheaper than the Pontiac pump.
 

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Just to add to the pile . . .

I talked with my tech. He told me that while the book calls for changing the fluid at 60 months or 30k miles, what really matters is the state of the fluid. He has a process and tools that allow him to test the state of the coolant. If you drive a lot of stop and go miles, then it needs to be changed "early" at 60 months or 30K miles. If you drive mostly highway miles in cruise mode, then it can go longer. He has a 2004 with dexcool and tests it every year. He has yet to change his.
 

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Not changing coolant would be like putting your car in storage for 2 years, pulling it out and driving for 3000 miles without changing oil. Coolant, like oil breaks down. I always thought recommendations from manufacturer was x amount of miles and x amount of years. With years being noore then 6 for any manufacturer if memory serves me correctly. I do drive my car rather spiritedly... I have 49k on it and tend to run it over 3k on each shift....

EDIT: I did just look up the interval for coolant change and the OEM data states 150k!!! Ummmm.....I would do it every 30k with the amount of WPs that are failing!
 

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EDIT: I did just look up the interval for coolant change and the OEM data states 150k!!! Ummmm.....I would do it every 30k with the amount of WPs that are failing!
Our Owner's Manuals recommend changing DexCool at 150,000 miles or 5 years, whichever occurs first.

:dunno:
 

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Yeah, I think it's mileage or age (whatever comes first). Think point my mechanic was trying to make was since dealerships typically (?) use a pressurized system to drain and fill that it could actually dislodge corrosion and then the dislodged corrosion could lead too or cause issue that weren't there to begin with.

Another reason I've been thinking of waterless coolant since a suppose benefit of waterless coolant is it not suppose to be corrosion to the mechanics like Dexcool/regular antifreeze are, along with it being lifetime coolant. Downside is $40 bucks a gallon. However, I'm not sure a dealership would be willing to use a non-approved coolant.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=t7PykrgzWPQ
 

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I've actually been looking at the pluses and minuses in using Evans Waterless Coolant:

Pluses: *Eliminates pressures in cooling system because it won't boil.
* Eliminates corrosion.
* No need for future replacement.
* Hoses and coolant-exposed parts last longer because of reduced temperature and pressure.

Minuses: * You must evacuate the cooling system of ALL water before installation.
* If a waterpump, hose or radiator were to fail, you can't just add water.
* Wouldn't necessarily increase the life of a waterpump, unless failure were
were caused by pressure or corrosion.

In my view, the cost of Evans coolant over the life of a vehicle is worth the cost, but its not by any means a cure-all panacea. Pumps and hoses could still fail.
 
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