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Morning,

Just bought our 2008 GXP last week from a dealership and there are two little places on the back of the canvas top that got touched with wax from being detailed....how can we clean this and not ruin the top?

What is the best polish you all would recommend? We currently have some McGuire's polish in the garage.


Thank you and have a super day.....Tammy
 

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Gently rub the spots on the top with a soft toothbrush and then seal the top with either 303 protectant or Raggtopp.

There are lots of threads here for what is the best wax but it's really what works best for you. If the McGuire's is working for you, then stay with that.

I like to bring the twins out when I wax the car.

eShine Canada: Klasse Twins (16.9oz)
 

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As far as removing the wax, someone else will have to answer.

1) As far as wax goes, every spring I use Meguiar's swirl remover on a wheel first to get all of the scratches (spider webs as I call it) out of the paint.

2) Then I follow it with Meguiar's NXT, hand applied, followed by taking it off with a terry cloth towel.

3) Then leave it rest for a day or two, rewash.

4) Then I use an orbital with Simoniz paint protection to give it a real pop with the shine. Basically with the Simoniz, you put just enough on the buffer to where it shows just a little on the paint and then with no pressure at all go over the paint with the buffer, adding more Simoniz when needed (hold the buffer with one hand so your not putting any pressure at all on it). Take it off (what little there will be) with a Microfiber cloth. If you have a black car, use the microfiber and spray a little bit of glass cleaner to get the extra Simoniz off and the streaks out. This step with the Simoniz is the secret all car dealerships use to make their black and red cars (dark colors) pop at time of delivery!

I have tried almost every wax on the market. And the Meguiar's NXT is the best. I have used Zymol, it's right there with Meguiar's. The worst has to be Turtle Wax. I've never had any luck with Turtle Wax. I used to use paste wax till the NXT came out as I never had any luck with liquid waxes. But the NXT has solved that issue.

EDIT: This year though, I'm going to be using Griot's Garage as my brother got me some as a gift. He did a lot of research and said this was the best stuff! I'll keep everyone updated.
 

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You have a good process. Our detailer has told us to not use terry cloth as it can create swirls. Microfiber towls is what you want to be using
Unfortunately though asking a detailer what the best towel is, is about the same as asking what the best wax is. Everyone has a different opinion. I have used 100% cotton terry towels specifically made for detailing and although they didn't leave swirls, i found they just didn't wipe as well as a microfiber. That said, I use these and have great results. 5 years and still no swirls.

eShine Canada: The El Cheapo Microfiber Buffing Towel
 

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Unfortunately though asking a detailer what the best towel is, is about the same as asking what the best wax is. Everyone has a different opinion. I have used 100% cotton terry towels specifically made for detailing and although they didn't leave swirls, i found they just didn't wipe as well as a microfiber. That said, I use these and have great results. 5 years and still no swirls.

eShine Canada: The El Cheapo Microfiber Buffing Towel
Good to know. I buy bags of MF towels at COSTCO or I probably would not use them as most retailers charge way too much for them.
 

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As long as the terry cloth towels are ONLY used for your car, are washed regularly and you only use the ones for drying for drying, washing for washing and are soft, not bristly hard, they shouldn't leave too many spider webs. MF doesn't work for drying at all. Also, some of the MF towels I've seen for car care have tags sewn on them....what's up with that?!?!

Now that all being said, everything is going to leave "spider webs" eventually. Everyone has their own opinions to what you should and shouldn't use on cars and this is just what has worked for me. My Mustang was a show car...and placed in every show it was in for 6 years straight, with little care....



This is how I rate how define what is what with paint:

1) clean
2) spider webs - looks like spider webs on the paint at night under lights usually done by everyday washing
3) swirl marks/car wash marks - you can usually see when someone has gone through numerous car washes without any type of paint care done to their car. Also this can dull paint too.
4) severe swirl marks - usually done by someone who trys to detail their car by wheeling it out and makes actual swirls in the paint that can be seen at night under lights. This usually looks horrible and is usually highly visible on darker colors.
5) burn marks, scratches - usually done by someone who has NO CLUE what they're doing but still trys to detail their car.
 

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I've been using these techniques that been working for me in the last year just use different product. But, especially the drying portion is the best part as my car is black and wish I'd practice this earlier. ..
 

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Taben - as usual, members here have given you solid advice. Rob's video post has excellent advice. The old "wax on wax off" circles are a no-no and constant attention to keeping your cleaning towels/pads clean is a necessity during detailing.

Depending upon what level of "retentiveness" you want to get into, check out autogeek.net - they have plenty of instructional videos and a lot of products you can spend money on. lol. Meguiers has a line of polishes that work well with a dual action buffer for whatever degree of paint flaw you're working on.

As for wax removal, I'm still working on finding something that works worth a darn - mostly on the plastic trim moreso than the canvas. Sly's advice on a good scrub with a brush is good as well as the 303 or Raggtop treatments. I've used the raggtop cleaner and protectant just this past month and am impressed with it.
 

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I just read that WD40 takes wax off of plastic, but I wouldn't use it on your canvas top.
 

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I've been using these techniques that been working for me in the last year just use different product. But, especially the drying portion is the best part as my car is black and wish I'd practice this earlier. ..
Fifth Gear Detailing Car Wash 5k - YouTube
Thanks for sharing, I'll have to try the "pat, don't rub your car dry" routine. While I use MF, I run it along the car, never really thought about patting.

I'll have to look into the clay as well, I guess this is a finishing clay? I don't have any real scratches I need to go after, just a few very minor ones that can be seen if in the right conditions, I suppose the clay might help those?
 

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Dry you car with your hose after you wash it and you won't have much to dry.

 

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Thanks for sharing, I'll have to try the "pat, don't rub your car dry" routine. While I use MF, I run it along the car, never really thought about patting.

I'll have to look into the clay as well, I guess this is a finishing clay? I don't have any real scratches I need to go after, just a few very minor ones that can be seen if in the right conditions, I suppose the clay might help those?

Glad I can help...
 

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Shado - clay will not take care of scratches but will help prevent them. It's used to remove surface contaminants that stick to the paint and washing can't remove. If you leave them on there they can break loose while waxing and create scratches. Steps I use are:

Wash
Clay
Polish
Wax
Sealant

The polish stage is to get rid of any new surface scratches. I usually wait a day or two between the wax and sealant to let the wax harden. The sealant does a nice job of providing a hard "top coat" that keeps the paint looking good and helps prevent new scratches.
 

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Shado - clay will not take care of scratches but will help prevent them. It's used to remove surface contaminants that stick to the paint and washing can't remove. If you leave them on there they can break loose while waxing and create scratches. Steps I use are:

Wash
Clay
Polish
Wax
Sealant

The polish stage is to get rid of any new surface scratches. I usually wait a day or two between the wax and sealant to let the wax harden. The sealant does a nice job of providing a hard "top coat" that keeps the paint looking good and helps prevent new scratches.
Wow, how often do you wash the car and then go through this routine?
 

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some real interesting techniques. I use maguires with the applicator sponge and remove it with an old t-shirt. then I lightly buff it with an orbital and call it quits. for the top, I use maguires canvas top cleaner but I've been looking for a protectant to use. still haven't decided. my top is black and I had a couple of small spots that were discollored and I used a teenie bit of black shoe polish on them. just something I had in my hand at the time and I can;t even tell where they were.

Charlie
 

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I only do the "full Monty" there 2 or 3 times a year. In between times it's usually a quick wash when dirty - maybe every week if it's a dirty period. Maybe once a month I'll hit it with a detail spray after washing.

The Klasse sealant I've been using claims a 12 month life. Maybe since I wash more often than most I find it holds up for about 6 months.
 

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Actually I forgot. I do clay bar before polish.... I do it twice a year, once in the spring and once in the fall...
 

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I just read that WD40 takes wax off of plastic, but I wouldn't use it on your canvas top.
If you have wax on plastic, go to Office Max or the like and buy a package of white (not pink) pencil erasers. I am talking about the big ones. I use the Paper Mate White Pearl. They come three to a package and cost under two dollars here in VA.
I apologize to the administration if I went over ten words, but I'm new (7 months) here. I think I was already on the "demerit" list anyway. :lol:
 

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If you have wax on plastic, go to Office Max or the like and buy a package of white (not pink) pencil erasers. I am talking about the big ones. I use the Paper Mate White Pearl. They come three to a package and cost under two dollars here in VA.
I apologize to the administration if I went over ten words, but I'm new (7 months) here. I think I was already on the "demerit" list anyway. :lol:
LOL

You did very well. The grading system for responses is still being . . .. graded. :thumbs:
 
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