I recommend a light scuffing with some sand paper followed by the SEM plastic paint adhesive promoter.Followed by color primer. Followed by a couple true color coats and lastly (for longevity) a 2k matte clear coat.@HHGadget I wish I had read your thread a little closer lol. Tried Easy Off on the chrome bits. Needless to say they’re very clean and still very much chrome. I’ll give your method a go this weekend.
Ahh, you might be right, or maybe the paint just baked on harder in the sun over the years.I read that thread, good information!
I think they must have changed the formula for Easy Off since then, to be more environmentally friendly???
Yeah, Easy-off does NOT work on the real/good chrome parts in the cabin. Only on the thin (or maybe not chrome) headlight trim.@HHGadget I wish I had read your thread a little closer lol. Tried Easy Off on the chrome bits. Needless to say they’re very clean and still very much chrome. I’ll give your method a go this weekend.
I found out the hard way that the dash circles that are “chrome” seem to be wrapped in some type of metalized plastic. It can be very hard to get off without breaking the super thin rings themselves on the vents.Ahh, you might be right, or maybe the paint just baked on harder in the sun over the years.
Yeah, Easy-off does NOT work on the real/good chrome parts in the cabin. Only on the thin (or maybe not chrome) headlight trim.
Any before/after pics of the headlights?Used a ceramic coating headlight restoration kit, ordered a used wiring harness so I can use proper heat resistant wire looms and reroute a few sensor wires away from the exhaust side. Bought an upper and lower rear control arm to measure using my micrometers and start the process of finding a universal poly bushing or delrin bar stock I can machine down to fit. Still looking for the front upper and lower arms. Did a visual inspection of the driveline components and added a new flex coupler to the list of need to buy things. Researched lateral locks for the sway bars and billet sway bar brackets with greese fittings then added those to the list. The deeper i get into a total rebuild with a 500whp end point the more things I find need upgraded to handle the power laugh. Edited forgot to add researching rivet nuts and plastic bolts with thread locker to replace the plastic push plugs for the front fascia and ducting plastics.
Wasn't a dream (yay!) Hubby detailed it today. I then blinged the interior a little and put some chrome lashes on it.but that stare could just be a dream, you might want to go for a nice ride to be sure.
Sadly, no but imagine very old yellow milk cloud headlights and now they look clear, except for when the lights are on. If you get really really close, you can see slight scratches from the sanding. I went with the kit for the ceramic bonding chemical at the end that supposedly acts like a new surface coating. I'll know how well it works in a few years i suppose. Edited to clarify, I lack a digital camera currently and hate trying to use my phone to post on forums. Eventually I'll get around to buying a cheap one off amazon and post photos.Any before/after pics of the headlights?
Glad you put a link here because as a new guy I had no clue what they were talking about.. boomerang! Now I know!😊Really? Came right off for me and I even used the Walmart brand cheapy stuff.
(6) Ppssstt... wanna see an EasyOff'd boomerang? | Pontiac Solstice Forum
Nice! I’ve got these same side markers on mine. I was worried about them being dim, but nope. The LEDs are very bright. Really cleans up the look of the front.Put in the new smoked side markers and finally got to take the wife for a spin with top down. Just gotta love em with the tops down.. so much better looking.
Watch out on using fasteners that fasten too tight. The front wheel well liners came from the factory with screws and "nut clip" thingies. Several forum members replaced those with push pin "Xmas tree" clips because these are looser fitting and allow for some movement/ flexing whereas the screws are just too tight and thin and sharp which causes the liners to split and crack.forgot to add researching rivet nuts and plastic bolts with thread locker to replace the plastic push plugs for the front fascia and ducting plastics.