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2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP - Mysterious (with unkown origin blue sparkle in rear bumper cover paint)
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@HHGadget I wish I had read your thread a little closer lol. Tried Easy Off on the chrome bits. Needless to say they’re very clean and still very much chrome. I’ll give your method a go this weekend.
I recommend a light scuffing with some sand paper followed by the SEM plastic paint adhesive promoter.Followed by color primer. Followed by a couple true color coats and lastly (for longevity) a 2k matte clear coat.
Sanding between each coat.
 

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2006 red 2.4 5sp, very low km
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Removed cover in parkade after 4.5 months to check if battery was still charged enough to start. No problem, fired right up like I never parked it. Ran it up to temperature and drove around the parkade as we still have snow, gravel, salt and crappy roads. This week, I start to spring clean, mainly dust, then polish, put cover back on and wait about a month to get her on the road. It felt good firing it up and driving my little circuit around my parkade. Can't wait.
 

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I read that thread, good information!
I think they must have changed the formula for Easy Off since then, to be more environmentally friendly???
Ahh, you might be right, or maybe the paint just baked on harder in the sun over the years.

@HHGadget I wish I had read your thread a little closer lol. Tried Easy Off on the chrome bits. Needless to say they’re very clean and still very much chrome. I’ll give your method a go this weekend.
Yeah, Easy-off does NOT work on the real/good chrome parts in the cabin. Only on the thin (or maybe not chrome) headlight trim.
 

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2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP - Mysterious (with unkown origin blue sparkle in rear bumper cover paint)
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5,433 Posts
Ahh, you might be right, or maybe the paint just baked on harder in the sun over the years.



Yeah, Easy-off does NOT work on the real/good chrome parts in the cabin. Only on the thin (or maybe not chrome) headlight trim.
I found out the hard way that the dash circles that are “chrome” seem to be wrapped in some type of metalized plastic. It can be very hard to get off without breaking the super thin rings themselves on the vents.
 

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Used a ceramic coating headlight restoration kit, ordered a used wiring harness so I can use proper heat resistant wire looms and reroute a few sensor wires away from the exhaust side. Bought an upper and lower rear control arm to measure using my micrometers and start the process of finding a universal poly bushing or delrin bar stock I can machine down to fit. Still looking for the front upper and lower arms. Did a visual inspection of the driveline components and added a new flex coupler to the list of need to buy things. Researched lateral locks for the sway bars and billet sway bar brackets with greese fittings then added those to the list. The deeper i get into a total rebuild with a 500whp end point the more things I find need upgraded to handle the power laugh. Edited forgot to add researching rivet nuts and plastic bolts with thread locker to replace the plastic push plugs for the front fascia and ducting plastics.
 

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slivergxp&.wicked coupe,dirtbike,4wheeler twin turbo ford
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There are aluminum, steel and stainless steel rivet nut's. corrosion may be a issue with the aluminum&steel ones in some locations.
today Im still working on frame jig for my coupe.milling, drilling, mesuring,thinking( the hardest part) lifting, fitting, more thinking, assembling, dissassembling, and more of everything above. heck it's 42 degrees out side what else am I to doo.
 

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2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP - Mysterious (with unkown origin blue sparkle in rear bumper cover paint)
Joined
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5,433 Posts
Used a ceramic coating headlight restoration kit, ordered a used wiring harness so I can use proper heat resistant wire looms and reroute a few sensor wires away from the exhaust side. Bought an upper and lower rear control arm to measure using my micrometers and start the process of finding a universal poly bushing or delrin bar stock I can machine down to fit. Still looking for the front upper and lower arms. Did a visual inspection of the driveline components and added a new flex coupler to the list of need to buy things. Researched lateral locks for the sway bars and billet sway bar brackets with greese fittings then added those to the list. The deeper i get into a total rebuild with a 500whp end point the more things I find need upgraded to handle the power laugh. Edited forgot to add researching rivet nuts and plastic bolts with thread locker to replace the plastic push plugs for the front fascia and ducting plastics.
Any before/after pics of the headlights?
 

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Any before/after pics of the headlights?
Sadly, no but imagine very old yellow milk cloud headlights and now they look clear, except for when the lights are on. If you get really really close, you can see slight scratches from the sanding. I went with the kit for the ceramic bonding chemical at the end that supposedly acts like a new surface coating. I'll know how well it works in a few years i suppose. Edited to clarify, I lack a digital camera currently and hate trying to use my phone to post on forums. Eventually I'll get around to buying a cheap one off amazon and post photos.
 

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slivergxp&.wicked coupe,dirtbike,4wheeler twin turbo ford
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I didnt get to do much yesterday due to it being cold...but today it warmed up to around 50 with sun shining so i managed to get garage door up for 2 hours so I could hang half a 10' section of steel out so could machine it some more for the frame jig.that things gonna kill me yet, my back cant take much more,I have to do it all over tomarow or in a day or so for one of the other parts thats identicle. I spent the cold day working on my band saw doing some modifications. it's not good to let cold air in the shop on the machines.they dont like it and tend to sweat a lot witch isn't what you want with a 3000 pound chunk of machined precession cast iron machinery.( bridgeport mill&lathe's other machines.) if I had a swining entry door there it would be much easyer than a 16' garage door...but I dont. next time I get the jig just about back together for more checking & mesuring, I'll try to take a pic of it. I will have to take it all appart to reassemble it under the car once I get done with it.that aint going to be easy as heavy as it is/will bee,
 

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2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP - Mysterious (with unkown origin blue sparkle in rear bumper cover paint)
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Finally got a break from the rain (so weird saying that here in Los Angeles) and wash and waxed her. Picked up some moldable silicone putty and filled the small holes i had drilled in the rear trunk metal cup drains for the smoothline top as i prepare for the hard top from Norm.
 

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Put in the new smoked side markers and finally got to take the wife for a spin with top down. Just gotta love em with the tops down.. so much better looking.
Nice! I’ve got these same side markers on mine. I was worried about them being dim, but nope. The LEDs are very bright. Really cleans up the look of the front.
 

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forgot to add researching rivet nuts and plastic bolts with thread locker to replace the plastic push plugs for the front fascia and ducting plastics.
Watch out on using fasteners that fasten too tight. The front wheel well liners came from the factory with screws and "nut clip" thingies. Several forum members replaced those with push pin "Xmas tree" clips because these are looser fitting and allow for some movement/ flexing whereas the screws are just too tight and thin and sharp which causes the liners to split and crack.
 
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