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Yeah - that's a new one on me, too. More info please!
It is actually quite a common practice. Googling "vinegar to remove rust" will reveal a variety of articles.
Basically, vinegar is acetic acid, is stromg enough to attack rust, but not strong enough to damage the base metal (within reason).
 

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I shortened the Tremec 6-speed shifter 1.5" started out at 1" shorter but ended up doing it again and removing another 1/2". I wasn't happy with the "short throw" T-56 shift lever I had installed. But it needed to be threaded lower to shorten it. So purchased a 16X1.5mm Die, and threaded the lever all the way down. Used the Die as a Guide for the Sawzall, and went for it. After test driving it today I am much happier with the shifter position. The last picture is with it installed after shortening it 1 inch, I forgot to take a shot of it after cutting off the additional 1/2 inch. Now I have to swap out the larger Saab Brake reservoir.
Original Hieght.JPG
Threading.JPG
1 inch measured.JPG
1 inch removed.JPG
Installing.JPG
Shortened 1 inch.JPG

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Finally got around to refinishing the scuffed and worn trim on the E-Brake handle. i used 3M vinyl wrap. it was supper easy to apply and the color match was perfect for the color on the windshield frame and tulip panels.

Before and after pictures below.

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I did Manage ti change the original Brake Fluid Reservoir with the Larger Saab part I bought last year. Hopefully this will solve the overflow problem I had last summer the 1 time I auto Crossed the car. For those that don't know the Saab unit is larger, and has the fill cap located on the top, not angled towards the front. Easy swap, took less than an hour to swap and clean up the routing of the Steam lines from the head to the Coolant header tank. Bled the brakes and swapped out the brake fluid. Rotated the tired while I was at it. 1st Picture shows the original Installation.
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This is comparing the 2 Parts
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And a couple showing the Larger part installed, and the coolant lines rerouted. What do you think?
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2006 Pontiac Solstice, 2.4L base model.
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Finally got around to refinishing the scuffed and worn trim on the E-Brake handle. i used 3M vinyl wrap. it was supper easy to apply and the color match was perfect for the color on the windshield frame and tulip panels.

Before and after pictures below.

Very nice! Could you share the part number and source on what and where you picked this up at?
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I did Manage ti change the original Brake Fluid Reservoir with the Larger Saab part I bought last year. Hopefully this will solve the overflow problem I had last summer the 1 time I auto Crossed the car. For those that don't know the Saab unit is larger, and has the fill cap located on the top, not angled towards the front. Easy swap, took less than an hour to swap and clean up the routing of the Steam lines from the head to the Coolant header tank. Bled the brakes and swapped out the brake fluid. Rotated the tired while I was at it. 1st Picture shows the original
Whats the part number of the bigger reservoir?
 

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the reservoir looks right at home there, but the over flow seems to be in retreat as it looks like it's getting yellow..... mine still looks like new, if you want we can swap cars......;) keep up the fun!!!! It's funny gm took the time to make these formed hoses but there still not quite right...I wonder if they were sourced from a east west car and not solstice /sky specific . I wish i still had it in me to do a v8 swap, but those days are long gone now.
 

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Whats the part number of the bigger reservoir?
shabby, the GM Part # is 93172093 it says Right Hand Drive, but it is a direct bolt in for either a manual or automatic trans Kappa.

Here is the place I ordered mine from, I was very happy with the service.


And here is the thread that discussed it.

 

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Finally replaced my flaky key fob. Ordered the Dorman version that came with the programmer. Although more money (~$50) you can’t beat the results and joy for not having to go to the dealer to get it programmed. I took a video of the process thinking it might help someone, but the process was so simple all you have to do is follow the steps printed and you’re all set in less than 5 minutes. I would definitely recommend this if you need a new one and are like me and don’t like paying dealer prices for simple things.


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uncovered mine, drove it around for a while, got a few groceries.went to homers depot. and back home, now I can barely walk from using the clutch.....not a happy camper.
 

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Got my new header ceramic coated and installed.
Looks great! Makes me want to get the one on my new coupe coated. Who did you use?

I did swap out the Coupe's Turn Signal Switch, It now had a working Left Blinker, & and a self Canceling right blinker! and swapped the shifter lever with a stock one. Then cruised in perfect weather for about an Hour. Good day!
 

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Power passenger seat addition to my 2009 GXP.

About a year ago I purchased a driver's frame seat bottom that had the power seat option (up-down) to replace the passenger seat bottom. This past week I finally got around to installing it - not a job for a novice! Took several hours (parts of 3 days). It was well worth the cost for the added convenience for my wife to enjoy. She is short and had trouble with getting up and out of the car.
Removal of both seats was (I thought) necessary, but could have left the driver side in. Needed to get to the connector for the seat which was actually accessible at the rear of the seat. I had to tap on to the 2 power leads to run over to the passenger side for seat operation. The 2 wires were easily hidden under the carpet and the removable top of the 'console', etc..

The fun part began with the removal of the passenger seat. Original bottom frame had to be removed along with the back of the seat. The inside seatbelt anchor had to be swapped to opposite side etc.. The cabling for the passenger seat had to be changed over to the 'new' seat bottom to be able to re-hook up the inside seat belt anchor and the passenger side sensor (not used on the driver side). The power seat wiring remained on the frame bottom but there was nothing to plug onto. So, I simply ran two 14 gauge wires from the driver side connector (used two 'tap' connectors) and used some very small crimp push-on connectors to attach to the two power pins in the connector that was now in the passenger seat bottom. Next I had to make provision for the switch mounting bracket which is now on the left side of the passenger seat. Partial removal of the seat cover to expose the foam cushion allowed for cutting out a pocket in the foam for the bracket and the switch and also cutting the leather to match the bracket hole for mounting the switch. The original power seat cover has a special area designed for that switch, but installing the switch with the escutcheon surround is more than adequate to cover the cut out area. I'm leaving out some details, but the main areas are covered. Needless to say my wife was delighted with convenience and comfort of the additional adjustment feature now available for her.
Questions? Feel free to contact me via PM. I'd be glad to help anyone who would attempt this definite upgrade. Finding a driver side power seat bottom may be the biggest problem next to installing same. Stay safe and enjoy the cars while they last.
grandpop07
 

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I did today one of those useless little mods that you do when you are self quarantined with nothing else to do. Replaced the DDMWORKS screws in my coil pack cover with 6mm threaded rod ( pictire #1). Dropped on the spacers ( picture #2). Drop on the cover and tighten with 6mm thru knobs from Ebay ($10.00). Made removing and replacing cover, which you almost never do, much easier.
 

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