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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Saw this on another group and thought that there was a certain amount of truth to it.

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
What is your point? I only see 2 pics, nothing else.
Two different approaches to car modification, Paul. The one on the left is more traditional, the one on the right is appearance over function.
 

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08 Sky Redline, 5M
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So what about the in between size? IE like 30-50 aspect ratio tires? Restomod sweet spot?
 
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So what about the in between size? IE like 30-50 aspect ratio tires? Restomod sweet spot?
I think you are being too literal. It isn't about aspect ratio, it's about intent.

Post #4 says it all.
 

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2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP
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Putting low profile tires on a vehicle that has an unsprung solid axle = stupid. That car has to have a monster amount of wheel hop. Even if you went middle of the road between the 2 it would make the car handle like crap and the ride quality would be p00p
 

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2006 NA Deep 99.9% Stock
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Black Cars Matter: I like your (rally?) stripe. I've never seen one on a Solstice. Would you mind sharing a picture of the front of your car? - I assume it carries to the front. Is it painted or is it a decal?

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Putting low profile tires on a vehicle that has an unsprung solid axle = stupid. That car has to have a monster amount of wheel hop. Even if you went middle of the road between the 2 it would make the car handle like crap and the ride quality would be p00p
I expect that the wheels would be susceptible to road damage as well with so little rubber to protect them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Don't get me started on another pet peeve, John. The steady increase in wheel diameter to the detriment of unsprung weight of wheel/tire units is driven strictly by fashion and is an anti-performance move.

I don't know if there is such a thing as an ideal maximum wheel diameter. Some say 15-16"

 

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every car made has an optimum. what dictates that optimum is the setup of the suspension on the car. Most vehicles that have a large amount of unsprung weight the vehicle should have a large sidewall tire. This is what keep you from getting the teeth knocked out of you head.

I laugh at the ID - 10 - T people that own hondas or other imports and they lower the car 3-4" and then put on big wheels and tires that have next to 0 sidewall. By lowering the car they essentially made the whole vehicle unsprung weight because of how stiff the springs need to be in order to keep the car from bottoming out. Add in there the loss because of the side wall height being so small the handling on that car is now destroyed. so much as a pebble and the car will be hopping all over the place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I laugh at the ID - 10 - T people that own hondas or other imports and they lower the car 3-4" and then put on big wheels and tires that have next to 0 sidewall. By lowering the car they essentially made the whole vehicle unsprung weight because of how stiff the springs need to be in order to keep the car from bottoming out. Add in there the loss because of the side wall height being so small the handling on that car is now destroyed. so much as a pebble and the car will be hopping all over the place.
But it looks cool - at least to them..... :rolleyes:
 

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yeah that's like the -20° camber on the rear tires gotta laugh at that one too
 

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But it looks cool - at least to them..... :rolleyes:
Style over substance.

I thought the 15s on the TR6 worked well, and the 18s on the Sky don't seem excessive, but competition would likely tell a different story. Street speed is much more forgiving than track speed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thought I saw some of the solo guys running smaller wheels for slalom on a Kappa - maybe only 17" as likely limited by the brakes you have to clear.
 

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Some people has installed either 16s or 17s for winter tires, but yes, clearance gets to be a problem.
 

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a friend of mine has a 2004 GMC Yukon Denali and he wanted to get 27" wheels for it with next to no sidewall tires. I said to him, you don't want to do that I am tellin ya. I went for the ride with him when he went to pick up his SUV after having them installed. I shook my head and said you won't even make it back home. The SUV had 180,000 miles on it and no love had been given to the suspension at all. It wasn't making any noises with the original wheels and tires so nothing was ever checked or replaced. I drove it once before he got the new wheels and I said to him.. WTF dude. Your suspension is all kinds of messed up. His reply was no it isn't, It has driven the same since I got it.

He never made it out of the parking lot. There was so much movement front to back because of the suspension the tires would hit the back of the wheel well when stopping and the front of the wheel well when taking off. I also warned him about GMT800 chassis and the brakes not being large enough. Again he said they have always worked fine. he ended up cooking 2 sets of brakes on it before he finally listened to me. the brakes from a GMT900 chassis bolt right into the GMT800 nothing else needed. a little over 1" larger diameter on all corners which added about 40% more stopping power. I busted out the pen and paper and showed the math on how much more stress was being put on the brakes because of the larger overall diameter of the new wheels and tires.

I spent a week rebuilding the entire suspension on his truck, teaching him how to do it. I am a mean mean person. I handed him the "rental" c-clamp to press the ball joints out of an east coast SUV. Took him about 8 hours to do 1 ball joint. When he finished I said you aren't done yet. you have 7 more ball joints to go and 16 bushings after that. I wish I took a photo of the expression on his face, it was priceless. Then I said to him go and get your wallet we are going to spend 100.00 and now you will learn the easy way to do it. He couldn't really appreciate the easy way without doing it the hard way first. Went to harbor freight and bought a shop press. Did the rest of the ball joints in < an hour.

During this whole process he decides he wants to lower the truck. we lowered it 5" Lowering kit consisted of 2 torsion bar keys for a 2500 pickup, rear springs and shocks all the way around. I showed him a trick to delete the air ride in it without having the informant say there are all kinds of problems and the dashboard lighting up like an x-mas tree. Disconnect the battery, Pull the fuse for the stabilitrack (on it's own circuit) and fill the openings where the fuse goes with hot glue. Tap the battery cables together and then reconnect the battery. when the computers boot up and the car does a network scan of hat modules are installed no response is gotten from the stabilitrack so the car thinks that option has not been installed and it goes along it's merry way.
 
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