Pontiac Solstice Forum banner

When do brake hoses need replacing?

1012 Views 33 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  JohnWR
The outer sheath on my brake hoses is starting to crack. Does this mean I need to replace the hoses? I've purchased some new ones but not real excited about replacing at the moment due to time.
21 - 34 of 34 Posts
I bought all the testing tools. I like that approach. Know the state not guess
  • Like
Reactions: 3
I had stainless lines custom made for the Roadmaster wagon where a tiny bit of length was added to allow the lines to not come in contact with any metal as the front wheels turn left to right. They are still fine. My sin is like so many others by not changing fluid in a timely manner. With the Power (pressure) Bleeder it is a lot easier for one person. Also have one of the 'Cigar" moisture testers. I hope it is accurate.

Richard
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Changing brake fluid is indeed a neglected subject. We always bled the calipers before every race to prevent any water absorbed at the caliper seals from reducing brake forces under racing conditions, but that is over the top for a street car. I can say that I think that a complete once a years brake fluid replacement is a good idea, but I can't pretend that I follow my own advice on that.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
And CW does your wife do like mine and check the date on all the food in the kitchen?
lol - "kinda". She has a hard time shifting between food purchasing and cooking for the daycare and just the two of us. Finally getting her focused on minimum buys for us. In the past she'd buy multiple bottles of salad dressing to keep from getting burned out on one flavor. This merely means once a year we would throw out multiple bottles of half-used dressings that were a year out of date.
  • Like
Reactions: 2
2
Thanks all. On further inspection, somewhat humorously, it turned out I had quickly looked at the e-brake cable, not the hoses, and the hoses are fine so for now, I'm going to leave as is.

Did do a very extensive flush (except for ABS...need to look into that as I saw in the manual and have heard people mention). I don't think the last owner had done for years. I'm using DOT 4 and will replace every 1-2 years. Did a pressure bleed with Motive pressure bleeder.

All new brake hardware (not calipers, but the boots, etc.) and cleaned and lubed everything. Did the e-brake piston clockwise retraction...now ebrake works stellar (was almost doing nothing before).

New rear rotor and Hawk HPS pads, waiting for front rotors to come in (but I bled and replaced hardware) and putting Hawk HPS upfront as well.

Painted calipers red as previous owner had done a somewhat crappy job and I couldn't get all the red off without some extensive work (was going to go back to silver), so just cleaned up and prepped and painted with Rustoleum caliper spray paint. Pics below (close up has a dirty rim ;-).

Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Automotive tire
Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive tire
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 2
Remember to always apply your parking brake. That's the best way to keep those rear calipers adjusted.
LOL “heard”?
I’ve used them on several cars for years.
PunisheR is over 500 hp so the brakes see use :)
So I decided to do my brakes today. Only problem is that the banjo bolt broke right in half at the hole. Luckily I was able to remove the rest of the bolt from the caliper by hand, which was strange, but feels like it seals on the two copper crush washers. I found a thread here that said these bolts are torqued to 30ft lbs, even doubled checked and tried again, so now I have two broken bolts.

Ran up to the auto parts store and bought a couple more, but any suggestions?

Automotive tire Road surface Grey Asphalt Water
See less See more
So I decided to do my brakes today. Only problem is that the banjo bolt broke right in half at the hole. Luckily I was able to remove the rest of the bolt from the caliper by hand, which was strange, but feels like it seals on the two copper crush washers. I found a thread here that said these bolts are torqued to 30ft lbs, even doubled checked and tried again, so now I have two broken bolts.

Ran up to the auto parts store and bought a couple more, but any suggestions?
They do seal on the crush washers, so it is recommended that you use new ones each time they are removed.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
I picked up more crush washers when I picked up the new bolts.
The bolts that came with the brake lines had two holes, and that's where they snapped. The replacements from the auto parts store only had one, so I'm thinking they shouldn't snap in the same place.
Well done
2
Well, sorry rob, but I'm not going to be keeping these on the car and am wondering if you or anyone else has any recommendations for other brake lines or companies.

Looking at the banjo bolts that came with the fronts, I can understand why they broke and the replacements I got from the auto parts store didn't, but still irritated that they couldn't handle the stock torque value.

I put the kiddo to sleep and went outside to work on my sway bars when I noticed fluid leaking on the towels I left under both rear calipers. Originally I thought the leak was coming from the banjo bolt here as well, but when looking at the drip, it looks like it's coming from the line at the end of the rubber.

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting


Automotive tire Tire Motor vehicle Bicycle part Tread


Hopefully I just got a bad batch and I'm glad that rob has had good luck, but this isn't a part I want to leave to luck.
See less See more
  • Like
  • Wow
Reactions: 2
So I have to correct myself here, I don't think the brake lines were leaking... Well, probably not. If you look at the image, there is no brake fluid on top of the line, which is why I thought it was coming from the line itself. However, after going back to stock brake lines I woke up the next morning with more drips. It was coming from the caliper. It looked like it was coming from the pin that the e-brake sits on when released initially, but now I'm thinking from the mechanism that turns when you pull the e-brake.

I contacted summit and got a replacement for the rear calipers. I'm hoping to be able to get them on in the next week or so, the arrive on Saturday and I have an autocross on Sunday, want to make sure I don't have any other issues as I'm still putting the interior back in.

I ended up purchasing another set of the brake lines and there doesn't seem to be any problem with them, so I'm happy with them. Well, other then the front banjo fittings that both snapped when torquing them down, but I have replacements and they are working fine.
See less See more
I've had stainless braided lines on cars before, and never noticed a difference in brake feel.

I have had problems with fitment, though. The end of the stock hose, at least on some of my cars (I haven't checked the Solstice) is a rectangle that sits against that flat boss on the caliper, which aligns the hose end and prevents it from rotating. The round end on the aftermarket hoses do not register on that boss, so hose alignment is up to you, and if something bumps into that hose, it could potentially loosen since that boss won't help prevent the end from rotating. I had just that happen once with an aftermarket hose and caliper on an S10 Blazer. It's unlikely, sure, but now I just run stock hoses with the factory ends.
  • Like
Reactions: 2
Forty-plus years ago the brake lines used were quite different, and stainless lines offered an improved feel due to less ballooning. Modern OE brake lines are pretty much as stiff as the stainless ones, and frequently are stainless, but with an additional cover to protect the braid from abrasion and the hands of those working around them from the braid.
  • Like
Reactions: 2
21 - 34 of 34 Posts
Top