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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I searched around quite a bit and was unable to find a similar post so apologies if this has been covered..

in the last couple weeks, when I first get in the car in the morning and I go to lower the windows, the drivers side makes a noticeable “thunk” as it begins its travel. I have been watching and I don’t see the glass jerk or make any sudden movements...

also, on occasion when I get home, it will “Thunk” the on the way up..

I am assuming there is a loose part that is moving a bit under the first torque of the window moving and was hoping someone here has run into this and can point me in the right direction?

maybe my search-fu sucks so again I apologize if this has been covered and would still appreciate any thread pointing or feedback y’all can give. I really don’t want to open the door until I am ready as I remember some thick plastic sheeting on there and not sure I want to cut it if I don’t have to..

thanks in advance!
 

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My '07 does the same thing. As it hasn't stopped functioning I haven't bothered to strip it open and observe. Having some familiarity with such mechanisms (making parts for them in the past) I assume it's likely a bushing or joint issue. Had ours for 9 years now and it still works.....

And it still "thunks".
 

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You don't have to cut the plastic sheeting. use a hair dryer and heat the edge of it up and it will come off without the need to cut it. You will however want to have a razor knife handy to cut the strings of butyl rubber that are going to be created when you warm and peel it off. Go slow and don't get that butyl rubber on anything you value. The largest risk there is with taking the door panel off is the handle to open the door from the inside. It can break easily.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I was afraid of some news like that KG.
I was able to replace my door speakers without completely removing the panel so I guess I got off easy.
Off to search the forum on door panel removals..
;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I am too OCD not to have this on my to-do list.
If I find the culprit will post pics...
 

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I searched around quite a bit and was unable to find a similar post so apologies if this has been covered..

in the last couple weeks, when I first get in the car in the morning and I go to lower the windows, the drivers side makes a noticeable “thunk” as it begins its travel. I have been watching and I don’t see the glass jerk or make any sudden movements...

also, on occasion when I get home, it will “Thunk” the on the way up..

I am assuming there is a loose part that is moving a bit under the first torque of the window moving and was hoping someone here has run into this and can point me in the right direction?

maybe my search-fu sucks so again I apologize if this has been covered and would still appreciate any thread pointing or feedback y’all can give. I really don’t want to open the door until I am ready as I remember some thick plastic sheeting on there and not sure I want to cut it if I don’t have to..

thanks in advance!
I literally have the exact same issue on my ‘08 Sky. I’ll be following to see what you find out.
 

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It sounds like it might be one of the bolts being loose that hold the window regulator in place or the motor. GM didn't do a fantastic job of tightening things up when they built these cars. The bolts holding my turbo to the manifold were just a tad more then finger tight.

I am hoping that it's not one of the pulleys on the regulator but it could be. The regulators in these cars are not the scissor style ones. This one is 2 tracks and cables. the motor is what moves the cable and the cable goes over pulleys in each corner of the regulator. It is a royal pain to get the regulator out of the door, I am pretty sure you are going to have to do this to service the thing. You can use a 12 volt drill battery to activate the motor. don't worry about polarity because hooking the battery up reversing the polarity just makes the motor turn in the opposite direction. I would attach the motor and the regulator to a board or a bench before attaching a battery to it. The motors are torky little suckers and if not held down it will jump.

Here is a hair saving suggestion.
Roll the window 1/2 way down. mark where the glass position is in the door from left to right. you can mark the inside metal of the door with a permanent marker. put a mark on the metal for the left edge and the right edge. Because the left and right edges are not parallel to one another we need to mark the up/down position of the glass so you know where it needs to be set to in order to get the left/right aligned properly. If you have window tints then mark the outside of the glass if you don't then you can mark inside the glass. draw a line on the glass following the top of the door. This marks where the window regulator is set to.

There are 2 clamps that hold the glass, you will need to move the window into a position where you can get to the bolts that hold the glass. when you losen the clamps and pull the glass up there are 2 rubber pieces that are supposed to sit in the clamps. They will probably be stuck to the glass, you will need to get them off the glass before taking the glass out. you might need a second set of hands to get them off. one person holding the glass up while you get your fingers in there to peel them off the glass. They are shaped like a "U" and wrap around the bottom edge of the glass

When you put the glass back in set it into the clamps. Don't forget to put the rubber feet in first. If you forget those feet you will probably break the glass. once you have the glass resting in the clamps then you can move the window regulator up or down and get the line on the glass matched up with the top of the door. when that is done then you can slide the glass left or right to align it with the marks made on the inside metal. Double check the rubber feet and make sure they didn't get knocked out of place when you moved the glass to align it. Don't want to break it when tightening up the clamp bolts. Once that is done then move the window regulator up or down so you can access the bolts for the clamps to tighten them up.

Marking the windows position is really important. If you do not do this you will be screwing around with it for a while trying o get it right. You can end up with it hitting the top when you close the door or you will get wind whistle from it. marking the position like I explained is going to reduce the possibility of that happening by a lot.

When I say to move the window regulator do this using a 12 volt drill battery if you want it to move slower you can see if a 9 volt drill battery will move it otherwise use a drill battery that is close to being dead. Old NiCAD batteries were best for this because they didn't simply turn off like the new lithium ones do. I have a small DC power supply that i can adjust the output voltage, if you have one of those that will also work.

I say to use the drill battery because the door panel gets in the way and you will have to be plugging and unplugging the clip for the window switch and it gets annoying to do and also increases the chances of breaking the switch. You can take the switch out of the door panel if you decide to. I don't remember if the switch is screwed in. I don't think it is I thing it is held by pressure from a couple of plastic clips. If it does have plastic clips be careful not to break them, they break easily.


NOTE: to get the marker off the glass spray a little WD40 on a paper towel and wipe the marker off. This may or may not work if you mark the window tint. I know it will take permanent marker off of plastics, I don't know how it might react with the window tint.
 

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If it is your regulator that is no good. I have a drivers door regulator if you need one (with motor). the only thing I don't have for it is the 2 rubber feet for the clamps, I have the bolts for it and the motor as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Appreciate the (and bookmarking this) in depth response KG.

I am hoping (I am an optimist) that I will be able to find this and address without a complete disassemble but good to know if I have to.
Yikes
 

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I have had multiple door panels off to adjust windows, replace interior and exterior door handles and the like. Probably 20? I have had the panels off our two Kappas several times.

The only issue I have experienced is the small clip that retains the door pull cable. there is a small flexible flap that is designed to make sure the cylindrical end of the cable where it inserts into the interior door handle does not pop out the top. Before I figured this out, I broke both on my car. But I found out that they are not necessary. Kind of belt and suspenders approach. I have had my car panels off multiple times over the years with this flap missing and it has caused zero issues.

For the inner plastic water shield (the clear plastic cover) I think that KGs suggestion is a great one. Sadly he was not around to advise me ten years ago. :-( I just pull the plastic sheet off with no heat and they come right off. I just pull the top and back edge and let it hang. When done with the door, they press back into place.

If you come to garage day on the 15th we can pull the panel with you. :)
 

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Appreciate the (and bookmarking this) in depth response KG.

I am hoping (I am an optimist) that I will be able to find this and address without a complete disassemble but good to know if I have to.
Yikes
Like KG said, the door handles are easily broken. Good thing is that they are the same door handles used in the chevy cobalt and are cheap and readily available.
 

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This will be the best 20.00 you can spend when working with the interior on any vehicle.


What you are going to find most useful in this kit when working on the door panel is the plier looking things at the bottom. The pop pins that hold the door panel on require some force in order to pull them loose. You either have to get your fingers behind the panel and give a swift hard pull to get the bottom of the door panel to pull away from the door or you use the pliers to slide around each pop pin and simply squeeze the pliers. The latter of course is the better way. The Blue tools are also non marring and won't damage the plastic if used properly.

Get yourself a small butane torch like this one.

I say to get the guy above because accidents do happen. You would use it to make a scratch less visible or to "weld" a cracked panel. The one above is a good one there are cheaper but they can be a pain to light. The one above is also a soldering iron and it has an attachment for heating shrink tubing and it includes the tip for welding plastic.

Get yourself a set of long screwdrivers as well, I am talking different lengths between 12" and 36" long. The flat head ones are invaluable when having to pop a panel off that has a clip in the middle of a large panel. An example is the C pillar plastic that will have a clip right in the middle of it. You slide the screwdriver in and get ti between the panel and the vehicle right against the clip and then give a twist. They are also a huge help with getting the top clips out on the boomerang so you don't have to go fishing about in your dashboard for them. When the boomerang gets pulled off the clips can sometimes pull off of the boomerang and stay stuck in the dashboard. Each time that happens the teeth that are supposed to hold the metal clip to the boomerang end up tearing up the plastic tab they are pushed onto. Using a long flat head screwdriver you are able to push into the side of the metal clip and release the lock that is holding it into the dashboard.

This is also something with will save you some hair pulling as well. GM vehicle interiors can be really noisy, the chances of this happening are increased greatly if you have to take them apart. Pick up a roll of this kind of double sided tape.

Anywhere a screw goes through the plastic put a tiny piece of this tape on the back side of the plastic. Any place there is a push pin put a small piece of this over the hole the pin goes through. You don't have to take the backing off the tape but it is not going to hold the panel as good if you don't. The adhesive in that tape is pretty low rent and does come off pretty easily. You can even use it on something like the boomerang clips by taking a piece and folding it over the clip on the boomerang. then when you insert it it will take up any slack that may form where the clip inserts into the dash. This is the most effective way to get rid of squeaks and rattles in any vehicle interior. It is also the cheapest way..

Back in the day GM used to do this actually. They used a sticky backed felt strip instead of the tape, cost cutting is what ended the use of the felt strips. while you can buy the felt strips still they are a pain to work with when you have to put a screw through it. The screw catches the felt and twists it all up. The foam double sided tape is a lot easier to work with and is cheap enough so if you have to take a panel off again you just replace the tape.

another suggestion is if you have to do anything with the wiring in a vehicle this is the only electrical tape you want to use.

So if you have to pull a harness up to move it and the wire clip comes off the harness use that tape to tape it back on. The tapes glue activates when you stretch it and it can be stretched even in 0°F temperatures. @rob the elder can tell you how good this stuff is. It's not like the typical electrical tape and won't come undone. You can also take it off and reuse it multiple times. you will not use anywhere near the same amount as typical tape. This stuff is also rated for 230°F temperatures so it can be used in the engine bay. When you get good at working with it it will look like this when you wrap a connection.



112697


This is a twisted connection and the tape has only been wrapped around it twice.

I mention the tape because you might have to move the harness in the door out of the way to get the regulator out.

also make sure the drains in the bottom of the door are clear of any debris. Just something to do since you are in the door.
 
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ooOO I wanted to throw out there that if using those panel popping pliers wrap them in electrical tape. They are metal and will scratch paint when sliding them behind a panel.

Those pliers are also the best to take Christmas trees out that hold different body parts of the car. Especially the ones under the nose where the plastic is loose making it hard to pull them out using other methods.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I have that exact kit except the pliers.
Used it to pop the door panel off for the speakers.
I just didn’t go so far as to remove the interior door handle...
Anyways off to get my second Moderna shot so expecting to take it easy for the rest of today.
This will be a next weekend project :)
 

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.......
Anyways off to get my second Moderna shot so expecting to take it easy for the rest of today.
.......
I thought that it was "tomorrow" (ie: the day after) that you should plan to take it easy.
 

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Another handy dandy do all tool for panels that won't scar. An old bondo spreader with a notch cut in it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well any excuse to take it easy :)
But I did need to wash the cars today and do some yard work.
I am hoping to sleep this off tonight and have no adverse reactions.
Again, I am an optimist but at the same time, taking it easy now that I did all that other stuff :)

first shot made me sleepy and a little (extra) dopey.
Want to be clear headed when I take the panel off.
Hoping to get a video of the “thunk” to post here for others with the same issue too.
I tried today and of course it didn’t do it...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I have had multiple door panels off to adjust windows, replace interior and exterior door handles and the like. Probably 20? I have had the panels off our two Kappas several times.

The only issue I have experienced is the small clip that retains the door pull cable. there is a small flexible flap that is designed to make sure the cylindrical end of the cable where it inserts into the interior door handle does not pop out the top. Before I figured this out, I broke both on my car. But I found out that they are not necessary. Kind of belt and suspenders approach. I have had my car panels off multiple times over the years with this flap missing and it has caused zero issues.

For the inner plastic water shield (the clear plastic cover) I think that KGs suggestion is a great one. Sadly he was not around to advise me ten years ago. :-( I just pull the plastic sheet off with no heat and they come right off. I just pull the top and back edge and let it hang. When done with the door, they press back into place.

If you come to garage day on the 15th we can pull the panel with you. :)
And thanks for the invite. Would love to but... what state is Garage in day Rob?

I get the feeling it ain’t near Los Angeles ;)
 
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