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Discussion Starter #1
I spend most of Friday driving to several body shops asking for estimates to color matching the OEM silver windshield post, behind the seat tulip panel, and a Norms GXP spoiler.

Some bodyshops insisted the windshield must be removed (and they would not be liable for broken windshield damages. Others felt they could simply tape and shoot.

Estimates are as follows.

1. $500
2. $550
3. $578
4. $950.


All estimates were based on same request. Color matching the OEM paint (black) with PPG paint. Same reason was given to anybody that asked why paint? Because I plan on having a OEM replica stripe run down the center of the car and didn't want the red stripe to contrast on with both black and silver body panels.

Lesson learned, most shops have no interest in doing custom body work and only want to work directly through insurance companies to generate as much profit as possible. :mad:
 

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I have had two cars painted. In both cases the windshield came out and since they are glued into place they needed to be replaced.

I negotiated getting the replacement windshields at cost - no profit. That saved me a lot of cash. The body shop pays wholesale for the install and then adds profit on top of that. I have gotten new windshields installed for $195.

In my opinion, and that of my painter, the rubber needs to come off before they paint. If they do not have clear past the edge of the frame, it will eventually peel and you will end up paying for it again. Also if they tape, where are they taping? At the edge of the rubber? Take my word for it, the rubber swells and shrinks with temperature and will both expose the silver color that used to be under the rubber, and the rubber will provide a mechanical action against the edge of the paint that will be highly likely to result in separation of the paint from the metal.
 

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having a black car you can just order the ASAP graphics kit that covers the silver and call it a day for $69. nobody will see a difference but you. i just ordered the DiNoc kit for my red one that has the dark otter metallic street edition stripe. would have went with black if the stock stripe wasn't a charcoal metallic color that the decal cant replicate.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I have had two cars painted. In both cases the windshield came out and since they are glued into place they needed to be replaced.
Rob, do you know if they were broken? Being told that since windshields are glued in breakage is very common. Currently have a call into my insurance to see how it would be handled since as I stated body shops claiming they aren't liable if broken.

Considered the vinyl kit, but was concerned with how close the vinyl matches original paint finish.

Primary reason I'm having painted is because plan on adding bright red replica OEM vinyl racing stripe.

Allstate just called me back, I'm covered but would still have to pay deduct which is small compared to cost of new windshield.
 

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I agree with the windshield removal if you're painting. I don't see that ending well for the reasons Rob pointed out.
 

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Rob, do you know if they were broken? Being told that since windshields are glued in breakage is very common.
When I had mine replaced due to a crack, the glass folks had this "L" shaped knife, very sharp, that they inserted between the glass and the frame and ran it all the way around, they were then able to lift the cracked glass out without further "crackage" (that's like "suckage" only for cracks :D)..
 

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Hi there!

Honestly, I'd just mask it before painting. I wouldn't bother removing the windshield. I haven't had to remove a windshield yet in doing a color change on a car, though I haven't (yet) painted a Solstice.

Given that the surround is black, touch-up wouldn't be a problem if you do notice some silver peaking out at some point in the future. It would actually be harder to match the stock metallic silver paint (because of the metallic).

If you are going to remove it, I'd talk to a glass shop as they might be able to remove and reinstall it without damage. Worst case, you have to buy new glass which you were planning on doing anyway. We have had glass companies remove glass for me like that (fixing rust under the side glass channel on an older S-10 Blazer) so it's possible.
 

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So glue is used on these windshields instead of the old style black adhesive? I've removed windshields before with no problem just by using guitar strings to cut thru the adhesive (butyl adhesive tape if I remember correctly). The only trick was getting the string (wire) inserted at the beginning. After that all it took was a back and forth sawing motion.
 

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On the other hand I painted my windshield surround with plasti-coat. Actuall turned out very nice. It was supposed to be temporary to see if I liked the way it looked and just never got around to removing it... It's been on for over a year now.
 

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This is what most installers use in my experience. It is permanent. I bought some to use in repairing a rip I created in my bed cover for the truck. Its been on there for 2 years and looks exactly as it did when I put it on. This stuff is pretty much impervious to anything.




3M 08609 Window-Weld Super Fast Urethane Black Cartridge - 10.5 fl oz. : Amazon.com : Automotive

This 3M 08609 Window-Weld Super Fast Urethane Black window adhesive is VERY STRONG and works well if the area is prepared correctly. Follow these instructions for excellent results.

1. Thoroughly clean the bonding surface. If you are replacing glass, remove ALL existing sealant.
2. If bonding surface is bare metal, prime with 3M 08608 Super Fast Urethane Primer.
3. Clean glass surface with 3M 08968 Glass Cleaner.
4. Prime glass surface with 3M 08608 Super Fast Urethane Primer. This primer provides UV protection for urethane adhesive and is a must for windshields or rear windows that do not cover bonding surface with black/ceramic coating. This step is optional if the bonding surface will be covered by black/ceramic coating on the glass.
5. Apply a quarter-inch (0.25") bead of 3M 08609 Window-Weld Super Fast Urethane Black to either bonding surface or to glass (whichever is easiest) and press glass into final position.
6. Cleanup adhesive using 3M 08984 General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner or 3M 08986 General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner.
7. Allow forward facing glass (windshields) and side glass to cure for 12-24 hours. Allow rear facing glass (rear view windows) to cure for 24-48 hours. Adhesive takes longer to cure in low humidity (e.g. 25% RH).

IMPORTANT NOTE REGARDING USE OF THIS ADHESIVE WITH CLASSIC CARS

Remember that this is VERY STRONG and VERY PERMANENT adhesive. If you use this to seat glass into a metal window channel or a metal window frame, you may not be able to remove the glass from the metal channel or frame without damaging the metal. If you are restoring a classic car, consider using the proper thickness glass setting tape to set the glass into channel or frame instead of permanently gluing it in place with this adhesive. Glass setting tape is available from most window installers and cork/rubber glass setting tape is also available from various classic car restoration websites. If unsure of proper thickness (e.g.: 1/16", 1/32", etc) take glass and channel or frame to a window installer so they can confirm thickness for you.
 
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