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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yup, mine won't come on either. Not when the water temp reaches 220. Not when I turn the AC on. Cooling system works fine at speed and holds at 200 but when I stop it creeps up. Fuse was the first check, its fine. I was about to bend over the barrel and just buy the whole assembly for like $300 but I'm glad I didn't. I hope anyway. I just went out to the garage and took the fan assembly all the way out (not as bad as I was expecting by the way). Now I just read another post just a few down that got very technical and honestly, I was completely lost. So me not being very technical and all did what I thought was a good test and just ran wires straight from the battery to the terminal on the fan. The fan spun right up. I checked both before and after the controller box attached to the assembly and in both situations the fan spun up no problem at all. So now what? It appears my fan assembly is fine and the fuse is fine. I'm hoping someone smarter than I can shed some light on what the problem might be. Also as a last resort to make the car drivable for summer, is it completely unacceptable to completely ghetto rig it? Perhaps run some wires from the battery through a 15 amp fuse and to a switch I put in the cabin and just turn the fan on manually as necessary.
 

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I, by no means am an electronics expert. If the fan will work running from the battery but, will not come on via the ac or temp sensor. Does that indicate a bad relay or possibly another sensor somewhere? Just throwing out an idea. Could be completely off base.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I would be glad to check the relay. If I knew where it was lol. When I looked in the fuse box the only thing I saw pertaining to the cooling fan was the one fuse.

Also a bit of new info. I now have a CEL that I assume is because the car doesn't see the fan. I still haven't put the fan back in. I thought it interesting that with the fan in but not working there was no CEL, but with the fan out I get a CEL.
 

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my sons honda just did this.i tested it the same way with identical results.there should be a sensor that screws into the block to turn the fan on.it was less than 20 bucks so it might be worth a gamble.on the honda its located near the thermostat,no idea where on a solstice.
 

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On the GXP, the fan is controlled by a pulse width signal from the ECM. The sensors all feed the ECM also. If your DIC is reading correct-appearing temps, then the most likely culprit is the control module on the fan (despite your debugging).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So just for clarification, despite the fan spinning up when 12 volts is applied directly to it (and I mean through the controller as well, not just the fan), you're saying that the controller may still in fact be bad?
 

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NA and GXP have different controls, which is yours?
 

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According to the wiring schematic, the white wire is for the motor speed control and is grounded by the ECM. If you have the black wire to ground and the motor runs with 12V to the red/bk wire and/or the white wire, an added switch should work.
 
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