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Replacing crankshaft sensor

7.9K views 84 replies 8 participants last post by  Old School  
Hi group. Has anyone done a replacement of crankshaft sensor in their solstice Gxp 2.0 litre? I have a code po 335 and one solution is to change the sensor. Is there a technique that someone can share with me, I do have a hoist so wondering if it’s easier to do from underneath as the sensor is just above starter? Rick
I removed my intake manifold to get to mine.
I.e. from the top. Even then it was a little hard to get to with a cranky back but from the bottom seems the hard way…
 
Intake Manifold was about an hour, taking my time the first time. Now that I have done it I can do it in about 15 minutes tops. I used a can of permatex high heat copper gasket spray and the gasket itself is metal so after inspecting i reused it after a light coating of gasket spray :)

The pain in the butt part is removing the rubber throttle body elbow (or in reality reattaching the rubber elbow). It is just really really tight and generally I have discovered pulling the entire cold side charge pipe back to the throttle body makes it faster...
 
There are things you will discover that can be partially disassembled and safely rotated out of the way when addressing the top of the intake manifold, keeping in mind that your goal is to free the manifold from connections.
If you spend a few minutes staring at the top of the manifold after popping the plastic engine cover off, it will make sense. The connections on the outer edge of the intake manifold are a bit tight as the wiring harness is zip tied against it and thus in the way of some of the bolts.
Much of the above list is really just removing spring clamps and vacuum hoses, which again if you look at it logically is quite simple :)
 
Here is a line from the post i linked to above:

In order to remove the intake manifold (at least for me on the GXP) is simply unbolting all the 10mm on top for the various parts, there are two on towards the outside edge that are 10mm for brackets, one 13mm on that same front edge.
You can then easily remove the one vacuum line that is connected to the top of the intake, flop that solenoid and its three vacuum lines out of the way, remove the one hose on the front edge, and then one last 10mm on the firewall facing side of the manifold on a bracket that also holds the HPFP.
After that it was just the manifold bolts and nuts themselves, then the two studs under the two nuts along the top row (e-torx bit).
Loosen the throttle body elbow clamp to the throttle body (push down on the elbow and it pops right off the throttle body).

from there, tilting the left side of the manifold so it clears the coolant line and a gentle lift upwards until you have just enough room to slide your hand under the right side of the manifold to disconnect the wiring clip to the throttle body.
Boom, done.
The fuel line and vacuum hose assemblies should be able to flip away and clear of the manifold, once you disconnect the hard fuel line to hpfp.

for me the hardest part is that 13mm (or is it 15mm?) large bolt on the outside edge of the manifold because there is a thick, very tightly dressed electrical trunk which, when juxtaposed against the hard piping of the ABS system blocks almost any size socket or wrench combo. That harness is attached to an oddball stud with a 10 mm nut in the middle that i ditched long ago once i realized it wasn't really doing anything for the harness and was totally in the way of servicing the manifold.
 
Also, as mentioned in my text above two of the "bolts" on the top edge of the manifold are actually nuts. It is super helpful to remove the studs under the nuts (they are e-torx so you would need that kind of socket) as once the studs are removed, you can slide the manifold up and out much easier :)
 
reach under on the right hand side (as you are facing it) and disconnect the electrical connector from the throttle body.

Also the elbow needs to be disconnected from the throttle body. Put a few bolts back in to hold it against the head and just push straight down on the throttle body hose.
 
There is a sliding locking tab you have to pull out (like on most of the Solstice electrical connectors). Then you have to squeeze the correct section of the connector to pull it out.
The first time i did this i borrowed a make up mirror from my wife that was small enough to slide in there so i could actually see the connector. (since then I bought a mirror on a stick for working on cars)
 
Hopefully one last question(s) lol. Is there a trick or tool?? to disconnect the connector to throttle body-I can reach it but cant figure how to disconnect that connector. I have some "torx" sockets-but they are male ends-I guess I should get a set of etorx sockets before I pull manifold off? I'll ask my mechanic buddy if I can borrow his to get this put back together this weekend. Thanks again-youve been a huge help!
FWIW, I got lucky and my crank sensor worked without have to relearn it on the Tech 2.
 
Good morning. I am so glad I got on this forum-very helpful:)

I did get the 2 hidden bolts holding dipstick tube and brakebooster bracket for hose., and got an e-socket to remove the studs. The manifold pulls up about an inch or so.
I'm still unsure whats allowing me to pull the manifold up, but not tilt it to gain access to connector. Going to tackle it again after breakfast and hopefully report success today.
I think once I can see connector I'll be able to unplug it. The only thing that seemed weird in the instructions is to remove the "manifold bracket"-I didnt see one of these and thought I missed un doing it-yet the manifold is loose? Is it possible the maniofold was worked on before and this brace wasnt puSee photo.
Ahh, i do not have the brake booster as i am the lucky owner of the rare early ‘08 GM brake booster delete performance package.
(sarcasm)
I was unaware that connects to the manifold?
The two points of difficulty i had in loosening the first time was the tightness of the thick wiring harness and the brackets. One on the drivers side and the other was the dipstick.
You may want to grab a friend to hold it up and get a flashlight underneath to see what you are bumping against.
I put a towel over the valve cover and then got the front edge (with the studs removed) straight up and above the valve cover just a little then pulled it back against the wiring harness to get the left side around the large coolant line on the head while tilting the right side down. Once i had the left side clear of the coolant line i was able to lift up and out.
 
You may also look at ways of gently getting some slack around the outside edge by following the various hoses and wiring and seeing where you can gain just the smallest amount of extra area to pull away from the head.
 
Congrats!
High end scanner / programmer bi-directional tools will have the ability. Simple code readers will not.
As John said i cant imagine a auto shop that doesn't own at least one of these tools.
I am hoping you wont need it :)
Inspect your manifold carefully while you have it out. If there is any oil in it, you may wish to replace the PCV valve while you have the manifold out. Cheap part, easy install once the manifold is out.
 
Hey-some positive news today on solstice Crankshaft sensor issue ( had to do some. repairs on my 63 Lemans and take break from Solstice)-
So, after removing intake again-tested the connector and had 5v on yellow wire-but nothing on grey, but checking the grey wire just BEFORE the connector-we had 5V on both!!! Looks like I need new connector? Tried to see if we coupld open upthe connector (I'm guessing the grey wire got seperated within connector? New connector?
Man, that is a good catch!