get the 5 weight because that is what the engine is rated for. I would not switch it around.

As for what oil is best, thtat is a loaded question that will get numerous correct answers.

 

As for what oil is best, thtat is a loaded question that will get numerous correct answers.

I'll be using Castrol 5W30, I'd use synthetic if I were going to have a turbo, but I'm not likely, so I'll stick with my favorite - casterol.

a local pontiac tech told me that's what they would use at the dealership - unless I specified I wanted synthetic!

 

I bougth mobile 1 lasy night but just noticed it is 10w-30, old habit I guess. I see our cars call for 5w-30. is there a big difference? should I take mine back and get new?

I believe that the number in front is the winter weight of the oil ... that is for when it is cold out side. I see you are in NC so if you were going to run the oil this summer then you could in theory get away with it

 

I grew up on the notion that Pennsylvania Grade Crude was the best due to the type of dinosaurs that lioved and died here. BUT, even Quaker Stae and Pennzoil (now one company) moved to Texas long ago. I still use Pennzoil in most of my cars and for my offroad vehicles I use Valvoline. I stick with regular oils and do not use synthetic unless the mfg calls for it specifically (as do some ATV mfgs). I have nothing personal against synthetics or blends but keep in mind that using Mobil1 or Syntec when not specified does not exempt you from changing the oil at specified intervals to protect not only the engine but your warranty. Granted it would be rare to have an engine failure just because you went 7,000 miles between oil changes instead of 3,500, if you did go extended oil changes and had a problem your warranty coverage could be in jeopardy.

 

I believe that the number in front is the winter weight of the oil ... that is for when it is cold out side. I see you are in NC so if you were going to run the oil this summer then you could in theory get away with it

I would agree,but in the future I,d run what is specified.5W30

 

multi weight oils

I was under the impression, and correct me if I'm wrong, that in multi weights oils ( 5w30, 10w30 ) the first number is the viscosity of the oil and the second is how thin the oil will get at high temps. in other words 5w30 oil can not get thinner than a viscosity of 30 weight.

 

...Granted it would be rare to have an engine failure just because you went 7,000 miles between oil changes instead of 3,500, if you did go extended oil changes and had a problem your warranty coverage could be in jeopardy.

I always use synthetic (Amzoil) and I rarely change it before 7,000 miles. All my cars are equipped with GM's oil life indicators and not a one has requested an oil change before 7K. The truly irritating thing is GM and my car say change at 7-8K (average) but my dealer is constantly sending me 3,000 mile 'reminders'. Maybe they have a financial reason to change my oil more often? :lol: If you follow the DIC you will not be denied warrantee service.

Big thing to remember is all new oils, syn or dino, are SAE rated meaning they all meet minimum acceptable standards...you can't go wrong with any oil, but maybe you can go 'more right'.

 

Amsoil is one of the best if not the best out there. Others are...

Redline
Royal Purple

 

When in doubt Go by the book.

 

*shrugs*

I use Mobil 1 Synthetic, and my Oil Life Monitor is right on track to ask me to change my oil at 10,000 miles. I'll probably change when it says 25% remaining.

 

In my big engine vehicles I use Pensoil, but I've always used Castrol in the four (4) cylinder cars. I change my oil every 2,000 miles. In my legal forty (40) years of driving I've never had a problem with my cars engines.

 

Mobil 1 synthetic 5W30 every 6000 miles.

 

whatever viscosity the car manufacturedr recommends change every 5000 miles which in general is the same time you bring your car in for check up and rotation. use mobil 1...and " fagetaboutit!"

 

that is just crazy...

i'm not going to be a good little consumer and bring my car in every 5k miles like the big company (that wants every cent it can get) says i should..... that is just crazy... i'll change my oil and check my tires on my own thanks...


anyway.. change your oil between 3,000 and 7,000 miles and you can't go wrong.. stick to 5w-30 and it won't really matter what kind or brand you use as long as you change it.

 

Amsoil is one of the best if not the best out there.

:agree: :yesnod:

You took the words right out of my mouth.

 

I grew up on the notion that Pennsylvania Grade Crude was the best due to the type of dinosaurs that lioved and died here. BUT, even Quaker Stae and Pennzoil (now one company) moved to Texas long ago. I still use Pennzoil in most of my cars and for my offroad vehicles I use Valvoline. I stick with regular oils and do not use synthetic unless the mfg calls for it specifically (as do some ATV mfgs). I have nothing personal against synthetics or blends but keep in mind that using Mobil1 or Syntec when not specified does not exempt you from changing the oil at specified intervals to protect not only the engine but your warranty. Granted it would be rare to have an engine failure just because you went 7,000 miles between oil changes instead of 3,500, if you did go extended oil changes and had a problem your warranty coverage could be in jeopardy.

so what if you use the GM Oil Life Indicator in the DIC.....you could go 7-10K miles between oil changes depending on driving habits...the manual makes no recommendations I do beleive as to oil change intervals..mileage wise..but rather refers to the GMOL for when to change your oil.......we use mobil 1 sythn in our sol..and generally change it every 6-7K.....with the GMOL usually indicating 30-40% remaining......

 

The oil I'm using is whatever the dealer is putting in it. Believe this or not, the dealer sent me a coupon book that gives me free oil changes for the first 36,000 miles every 3,000 miles. I'd be very stupid not to take advantage of it.

 

Live where it's warm?

If you live in the southern half of the states, especially in the south east, or southwest... you can easily and safely (regardless of the book) run 10W-30. That front number (as someone asked, or mentioned) IS the 'winter' or cold start vescocity of the oil. 5W is a good all around oil. That way if you dirve the car to North Dakota in January or February, it will still turn over and start.

If you live in a place where the ambient temp never falls, or only falls over night, below freezing, 10W is fine.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question164.htm
http://www.repairfaq.org/filipg/AUTO/F_oil_facts.html

The second link has temperature chart in celcius. To convert, go here...
http://www.metric-conversions.org/temperature/celcius-farenheit.htm

 

The oil I'm using is whatever the dealer is putting in it. Believe this or not, the dealer sent me a coupon book that gives me free oil changes for the first 36,000 miles every 3,000 miles. I'd be very stupid not to take advantage of it.

:agree: very nice dealer

 

*shrugs*

I use Mobil 1 Synthetic, and my Oil Life Monitor is right on track to ask me to change my oil at 10,000 miles. I'll probably change when it says 25% remaining.

The OLM is algorithmic based and calibrated for conventional oil and typically will see 10kish miles (for conventional oil) dependent upon # of starts, # of RPMs, etc... Years of research by GM and independent oil lab analysis going back perhaps 15 years verify this.The important distinction here isn't brand or base stock but API rating and SAE viscosity. Both are requirements for warranty as well.

The 3k mi interval is a stubborn myth propogated by the oil change industry. The synth vs conv argument is older 'n dirt and yet engines last 100s of ks of miles regardless. Go figure.

 

I usually try to change my oil ever 3-5k miles. But it shouldn't be necessary for a new car like a Solstice.

It is a throwback to my old 84 caddy with a V8.


As for oil types, since I change so often, and weather has been mild here. I haven't paid much attention to it. I'll probably change that practice though.

 

I bougth mobile 1 lasy night but just noticed it is 10w-30, old habit I guess. I see our cars call for 5w-30. is there a big difference? should I take mine back and get new?

You will be fine in the summer with 10w30. The W stands for winter weight. since it isn't winter anymore the 5 or the 10 doesn't mean anything. In the future you will want to stick with a 5w30 but leaving the 10w30 in for the summer is not going to hurt anything. I'm a manager at an auto parts store and my husband is a technician at a shop we've been in these careers for 8 yrs plus together so belive me when I tell you you will be fine.

 

Mobil 1 5-30

If it is good enough for a Corvette, I think it is good enough for Our Beloved Solstice. Mitch

 

GM always specifies Mobile 1



GM Cadillacs and Corvettes specify Mobile 1, as does the GXP and Redline Turbo engines. BMW cars specifies a German brand synthetic and recommend changing every 15,000 miles. I even put synthetic in my lawn tractor. It's just better. No matter what oil you use, it should be changed regularly. It's not so much that oil breaks down as to the piston blowby of carbon, acids etc. not to mention engine wear particles that contaminate.

 

johnson' baby oil makes there tan look really nice, ooops wrong forum. I use synthetic, castrol 5-30. 5 equals oil viscosity cold, not cold weather cold engine 30 equals oil viscosity engine hot. I use synthetic becuase on my air cooled Harley it makes the bike run 20 degrees cooler, cooler is better! Figure it does the same for my car, synthetic's also have a higher lubrisity rating, meaning how "slick" they are. They have a tendency to "stick" to the metal better so when you start the car cold there is still a thing film of oil on the bearrings and rings and valves and framastans, and dohickies.

 

You will be fine in the summer with 10w30. The W stands for winter weight. since it isn't winter anymore the 5 or the 10 doesn't mean anything. In the future you will want to stick with a 5w30 but leaving the 10w30 in for the summer is not going to hurt anything. I'm a manager at an auto parts store and my husband is a technician at a shop we've been in these careers for 8 yrs plus together so belive me when I tell you you will be fine.

The W does NOT stand for winter!
Oils meeting the SAE's low temperature requirements have a "W" after the viscosity rating (example: 10W), and oils that meet the high ratings have no letter (example SAE 30). An oil is rated for viscosity by heating it to a specified temperature, and then allowing it to flow out of a specifically sized hole. Its viscosity rating is determined by the length of time it takes to flow out of the hole. If it flows quickly, it gets a low rating. If it flows slowly, it gets a high rating.

Engines need oil that is thin enough for cold starts, and thick enough when the engine is hot. Since oil gets thinner when heated, and thicker when cooled, most of us use what are called multi-grade, or multi-viscosity oils. These oils meet SAE specifications for the low temperature requirements of a light oil and the high temperature requirements of a heavy oil. You will hear them referred to as multi-viscosity, all-season and all-weather oils. An example is a 10W-30 which is commonly found in stores. When choosing oil, always follow the manufacturer's recommendation.