Uhmmmmmm. Might work.
Not too sure on the mounting depth, as I didn't have Monsoon in mine. Measure it and if it does hit, make a spacing ring. make sure it's air tight though.

 

I noticed the previous owner put a bead of silicone between his 10" woofer and the stock monsoon box in order to make the seal air tight. He took the speaker out but left the silicone.

Since the bottom part of the box is higher and the 10" would also sit on the higher end the speaker is to sit at an angle, is silicone an acceptable tool in order to seal the gap and make it air tight or would you recommend another product like maybe urethane?

 

Check the info here:
Kappa Stereo lessons learned

 

Thanks for the link but I already read all of that before posting my topic.

That topic is actually how I found out about the speaker sizes, the ohms needed the bass blockers for the rear 3.5" speakers etc however I could not find any information about the specific woofer I'm interested in.. the exact fitment clearence and HOW to fit the 10" subwoofer in the stock box .. if silicone was ok to use to fill a gap .. etc.. I'm hoping someone can clear those parts up for me

 

You will lose a lot of volume going from 2 ohm to 4 ohm, especially because the JBL have a high sensitivity, not sure what the Polks are but I would look for something with at least a 90 db sensitivity. The issue with the sub is not as much depth as it is width of the speaker motor (magnet) and the basket, the factory box gets narrow fast, I ended up cutting out the back of mine and then resealing it. I made a ring out of dense foam to put between the speaker and box to help it seal. I also took the signal from the factory amp output (used the plug from the factory speaker and made a cable with the factory speaker plug on one end and bare wire on the other) and put it into an amp inside the passenger seat using the high level inputs, the amp was only $100 and it works quite well. Soon the amp gets replaced with the Zed Audio and I will install a new headunit. I wanted to see what I could do for $200 on the sub. I would absolutely say the best thing you can do is go to the web site for sounddeadeningshowdown and get the door kit at a minimum, it is a lot of work but will give you more benefit than anything else you can do, it makes the factory system sound fantastic (thanks Don) if you want more info you can PM me.

I looked at the Alpine sub and it will most likely fit well

I made this one fit and it is bigger by quite a bit.

 

You will lose a lot of volume going from 2 ohm to 4 ohm, especially because the JBL have a high sensitivity, not sure what the Polks are but I would look for something with at least a 90 db sensitivity. The issue with the sub is not as much depth as it is width of the speaker motor (magnet) and the basket, the factory box gets narrow fast, I ended up cutting out the back of mine and then resealing it. I made a ring out of dense foam to put between the speaker and box to help it seal. I also took the signal from the factory amp output (used the plug from the factory speaker and made a cable with the factory speaker plug on one end and bare wire on the other) and put it into an amp inside the passenger seat using the high level inputs, the amp was only $100 and it works quite well. Soon the amp gets replaced with the Zed Audio and I will install a new headunit. I wanted to see what I could do for $200 on the sub. I would absolutely say the best thing you can do is go to the web site for sounddeadeningshowdown and get the door kit at a minimum, it is a lot of work but will give you more benefit than anything else you can do, it makes the factory system sound fantastic (thanks Don) if you want more info you can PM me.

I looked at the Alpine sub and it will most likely fit well

Please correct me If I'm wrong but the front stock speakers are 2ohms and the rear 4ohms. The ones I listed above as wanting to buy are also exactly that.. I'm seeing 2ohms on those JBL'S and not 4, am I missing something?

JBL Grand Touring Series GTO607C 6-1/2" component speaker system at Crutchfield.com

and

Polk Audio db 351 3-1/2" 2-way Speakers

I also plan to use these bass blockers on the 3.5" polk audios

Bass Blockers Crossovers for 3.5" 4" or 4x6" Speakers - eBay (item 290328359871 end time Dec-28-09 15:41:37 PST)

As for the dense foam, can I purchase this in a hardware store like Lowes or do I have to go to a radio shop?

Thanks!!

 

Sorry I wasn't paying attention, I have the JBL's I like them. For the foam you can get it from sounddeadeningshowdown or Parts Express. It's called MLV mass loaded vinyl, any really good dense foam will work but this is easy to find and about as dense as you can get. Easy to cut with scissors or a razor knife.
Sound Deadener Showdown - Your Source for Sound Deadening Products and Information

 

Thank You, I will have a look for the proper foam and I will order the speakers listed above. Once I have everything set up I will post here and confirm fitment.

One last question, is there a big difference from one bass blocker to the other?

I found two that say they are made for 3.5" speakers however they both have different numbers and I must say that I'm lost when it comes to ohms, hz and watts

which is better for our cars out of these two

Bass Blockers Crossovers for 3.5" 4" or 4x6" Speakers - eBay (item 290328359871 end time Dec-28-09 15:41:37 PST)

or

Stinger 0 - 2.8 Khz Bass Blockers Car Speakers SGJ95 - eBay (item 310187106445 end time Dec-13-09 18:42:03 PST)

do we also need some on the tweeters for the front speakers?

 

Here is the scoop on bass blockers, they roll off so they don't kill everything a a set frequency, they do not just cut off at a set frequency, I ignored the stuff about what size speaker they were for. What you want is a blocker (it's just a capacitor) that blocks below 300 mhz at 4 ohms, I have 150 hz blockers now and tried 600 mhz, the 150 hz are just a little to low, 300 should be about perfect, it will be 12 db down at 75 hz which is just about perfect.