[ConeHugger01]

2024.08.27
At the racetrack again last week, everything WENT GREAT. No codes (well none that mattered, the TPMS had a blinking good time when it realized there were no TPMS sensors to be found, but we were in ESC OFF mode anyways). Well I get a P1516 when I tow my little tire trailer and I'm on a highway going slightly uphill and don't modulate the throttle enough. But no REP, and I clear it and we move on. Had a fantastic time again. Saw VMax of 120 on the front straight, less vibration than before, I think before maybe it was bad tire balance and/or OPR.

Video HERE

Also I was trying to get a backup hub ready to take along and had a heck of a time because new ones have different studs than old ones. New ones have smaller knurl. Smaller knurl means less angle to maneuver a stud in or out, requires a tiny amount of grinding on the main body to fit a new stud. See this page for writeup: https://www.solsticeforum.com/threa...en-hubs-studs-not-the-same-as-before.169938/page-2?post_id=2353557#post-2353557

 

[ConeHugger01]

2024.12.28
I am replacing the right side diff seal because it leaks, even when simply sitting going nowhere for over a week. You can get the axle out without removing it from the upright, but it's so close, just millimeters of clearance when the upright is disconnected from the upper a arm, camber bar, and brake caliper.
I started with a scraper to wedge into the outer ring of the seal. Then I moved to a claw hammer. I told myself to be careful and not score the inside of the case. What did I do? I was careless and put the claw too deep and scored the case. After it was out I also noticed what was likely my source of initial leaking, another big crevice a little higher up. The previous gouge is clearly very long and goes to the outside seat edge, likely allowing oil to seep from inside, past the seal, to the outside of the seal.
I used a curved knife to cut down the high areas, and some 600 grit paper. The diff is still in the car and I don't want to remove it entirely for this work.
My plan on the new seal is to put a tiny amount of gear oil resistant RTV on the outer corner/edge to make a more permanent seal. I have a Kent Moore installer tool, but really it's not exactly the right size I believe, the outer edge is not along the outer edge of the seal, but partway inside on the floating metal area. I used a mallet to drive the seal in but used too much force and bowed in the inner face. So I took it off and am waiting for to order a new one. I will use a flat piece of wood to drive it in once started.

 

[ConeHugger01]

2025.01.29
I did an oil change on the Sky and sent a sample to Blackstone for analysis. Their report was terrible news. Extremely high wear, broken ring, worse? "Check for air leaks".

Thinking back I know what was likely the cause. 2 years ago on a trip to a far away autocross I got a CEL and then Reduced Engine Power (when I arrived) and then refused to start. The cause was an MAF that had grimy dirt and dust all over it. I had a major bypass on the air cleaner. I honestly can't say if I was the culprit or not, but likely. It was at least 90 miles, but more like a couple hundred perhaps. Now I think I'm looking at either a complete mechanical rebuild, or new engine (less accessories). 😭

 

[agent008]

Oh no. Exactly what one does not want to find out from their oil analysis... Sorry to see that. Perhaps you can have the cylinders and cylinder walls inspected with a scope? Hoping a simple piston ring replacement does it ie. no scoring on the walls.

 

[ConeHugger01]

2025.01.29
Some pix I took inside with my little scope. It's hard to get a good sharp in focus image, the depth of field is so miniscule. The tops of the pistons look terrible for only 6k miles. I was going to get a new tune this year since I felt it was only "ok enough". With a big cam it's pretty fumigating at idle (cough cough) so I hoped a leaner idle tune might help. But I'm here thinking of a rebuid instead.

 

[rob the elder]

ouch

Sorry.

Did you talk with Dave about this yet?

RTE

 

[yamahaSHO]

Have you done a compression or leak down test?

 

[ConeHugger01]

2025.02.15
Compression test was done with my friend. All about 205, one at 190, within the margin. No leakdown since compression all really good.
Pix inside the cylinder shows #5 has almost no cross hatch marks showing. #8 has a visible vertical scratch. Others have a randow non-hatch aligned minor visible line, but not deeper than hatches.

Most look like this

Number 5, no or almost no hatch seen:

Scratch #8

 

[ConeHugger01]

2025.03.07
Welcome to the big time - engine removal. I can't abide whatever is going on in the engine and so it's out, and was taken to RaceKrafters in Lancaster, PA. The removal process was long, and of course longer than anticipated. But nothing too dramatic happened and no stuck/rusted bolts impeded progress. I labelled bags of bolts/connectors as I went, put tape labels on connectors. I took short videos of nearly every connection as I went (not the ones I knew well or are plainly obvious, like wheel wells, fenders, etc.). Got some tips from Dave at PAW. Borrowed an engine hoist from a friend. Wife helped to pull engine and maneuver it. I made a shipping crate to fit onto my trailer, a nice lil piece of impromptu engineering. The removal took about 40 hours I'd estimate.
RaceKrafters is the real deal. They work on 1500hp drag cars, street cars, resto mods. They have every CNC machine to overhaul or modify an engine. They have their own LS head casting line. Flow bench, engine dyno, chassis dyno. It'll be in good hands. The owner took a quick look and identified a dried out main pulley damper, and maybe a burned exhaust valve.

My shirt says "To Do Install Power Plant" (was for my solar panel project) but is more appropriate to say "uninstall power plant" that day.

 

[yamahaSHO]

While it's out, I'd have your injectors checked, particularly the #5 injector.

 

[ConeHugger01]

While it's out, I'd have your injectors checked, particularly the #5 injector.

Well, everything is being replaced. Every moving part.

 

[ConeHugger01]

2025.09.05
Weight reduction - lightening the HVAC air intake box, bolted to the firewall, passenger side. It's a huge monstrosity. KG sliced his. I did it a little differently. Cut the bottom bump off, and the bump on the front edge. Replaced that with thin sheet aluminum. Original weight: 4lbs, 110z. New weight: 3lbs, 4oz. Savings: 1lb, 7oz. Untested as to sound, airflow, or water drainage. Car still without its engine.