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Car Washing / Basics

15K views 27 replies 20 participants last post by  Man of Missouri  
#1 ·
Here is an article I wrote for a local newspaper, thought I owuld share it with you.

Car Washing/Basics

I spend a great deal of time helping people with their car care needs.
The number one question I get asked is about how to properly wash a
car. Many people are going to automatic car washes these days because
it’s convenient and saves time. The reality is that the best procedure
and the way to ensure a great finish is to hand wash your car
yourself. Before I discuss the steps on hand washing, let’s take look
at the different automatic washes and how they affect your car. I have
had many people tell me their car looks great and all they do is run it
through a car wash once a week or so. I have also heard a number of
people tell me they had wheels damaged, antennas broken, outside
mirrors cracked, and paint swirled from automatic washes. To those
having good luck using automatic washes, eventually your luck will
end. Odds are that at some point your car will get damaged. The brush
car washes come in direct contact with your car’s finish. This is how
swirls occur in paint. The touch-less wash is better for your finish
and is the preferred method for cold weather washes when you can’t do
it yourself outside. The best solution is to make sure you properly
detail your car twice a year, getting a good quality paint sealant on
the finish. Hand wash whenever possible, and only use a touch-less
pressure wash in cold months. If you clay your car during every
complete detail, it will be easier to maintain during the cold months.
(See my web site for how to clay www.perfectautofinish.com)
When you hand wash always use car wash soap -- NEVER use dish detergent
or laundry soap. Work in the shade; the sun can cause water spots.
Use the two bucket method – one bucket for soap, one for rinsing. Use
chenille mitts or micro fiber mitts, don’t use sponges or towels.
Have some all-purpose cleaner on hand for the wheels and tires, Simple
Green or 409 work well. To start, rinse the car, getting it wet from
top to bottom. Starting at the top and working with the soapy water
solution and wash mitt, do a small section at a time, rinsing as you
go. Pay attention to problem areas that won’t come off with the soap,
like tar and overspray. Don’t worry about those areas now; come back
to them after the initial wash. Change water as often as necessary,
depending on how dirty your car is. When you take the mitt from the
soapy water to the finish, return it to the plain water bucket, that
way you won’t transfer contaminants back to your car. After you wash
the entire vehicle, rinse well. Before you get to the wheels and
tires, you should dry the car so water spots don’t occur. To dry, use
an electric leaf blower and a waffle weave micro fiber towel. Don’t
use terri towels or chamois because they can scratch the finish. The
electric leaf blower will get water out from behind emblems, trim,
molding and other areas where water can sit and hide. Next, spray some
all purpose cleaner on the tires and wheels. Use a wheel brush and
soapy water to clean tires, wheels and wheel wells. For stubborn brake
dust, use an alkaline cleaner (see my web site for more info) then
rinse well. Now go back and inspect the finish. If you see any
foreign contaminant on the finish, use a small piece of clay to remove
it. Spray some water based dressing on the tires, stay away from
solvent dressings. Make sure you move the car up a little to dress the
underside of the tire. Apply a coat of wax or paint sealant on
wheels. Keep in mind that it is extremely important to clay your car;
this procedure removes surface contaminants that do not come off during
the wash cycle. (for claying information see my web site) Drying your
car without removing these particles will create all sorts of problems
like swirls and scratches. If you follow these simple guidelines you
will keep your car looking its best.
Gary Kouba, Owner Perfect Auto Finish

--
 
#2 ·
not sure ..wondering if i'm doing clay rite ? basically same amount of time as applying sealant ? rub on wipe off? how long , much rubbing with clay ...( on clean area - not an obvious stain or contaminant ? ( already has sealant- will it take more claying to remove sealant 1st ? or will the sealant and wax come off easily..... didn't seem like it took anything off really ??( sol)
also curious if i clay 6 year old truck ?? much more time or will bumps EVER come out ?? ( paint looks GREAT- but i can feel bumps )
 
#4 ·
I live out in the country and am on well water. Water is hard. I have to dry my car ASAP so I don't get water stains. She is precious to me, so she alaways has to look her. I use Meguires products and have done well so far. Like the idea of the leaf blower though.:) :) :) :)
 
#5 ·
waxing/sealant?

This article was very helpful. I followed it better than the stickies...but where does the waxing come in (and with what products.)
 
#7 ·
Gary,

I got the Microtex Micro Fibre mit. I also got a big blue Simoniz Microfibre Car Drying Towel. It doesn't say anything about "waffle weave" on it. It is definitely fluffy - more so on one side than the other. Is this the wrong thing to use? I also got some Simple Green Car wash detergent.

Lordy! You'd think I'd never washed my car before!!! I must be losin' it! I gotta keep reminding myself: It's a car stupid ... not a baby!

Eliza
 
#9 ·
Swires drove me crazy



I got rid of my 06 EBONYdue to swirls and less then quality paint job. I now have an 07 AGGRESSIVE with super paint job and the 3 step miquire make her look great!
 
#11 ·
This is a noob question. This is my first rag top I have owned. I have seen the posts about using RaggTopp and I plan to get this product. What I need to know is when I am washing the car how much elbow grease do I put into washing the top. I am worried about pushing dirt and gunk into the fabric and taking off any protection applied. I use a pressure washer on a very low setting (less pressure than a hose with a nozzle) to just wet the car with water and then spray on soap. So when I get the top rinsed with water I then hit it with some soap. Then I guess I should wash it lightly with a mitt to get the soap to break down any stubborn dirt? The trick here I assume is to not scrub the top. I think than would remove the protection that has been applied. I guess I cannot completely avoid pushing some of it into the fabric. Finally, just rinse with water.

I was thinking that a fabric washer that would suck the water back out of the top (think something like a carpet cleaner) would be kind of cool. Once you have the top wet, soaped and clean you could use this to suck out the excess water and gunk pushed into the fabric. This is probably a silly idea.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Thanks for the great cleaning info turbomangt, was just what I was looking for. This is what I use for glass.

I had a problem with my windows perma streaking, on the tops of the door windows ect.. Even thought I might have scratched them by rubbing too hard. Tried lots of stuff, nothing would work , luckly I tried some chrome polish. It works great. The only thing is to not apply it too thickly. Remember when you apply chrome polish you need to let it dry before you polish it off. If you apply it to thickly then you get flakes that fall from your buffing towel( onto your already cleaned surface below your window). Very thin coat works best, very, very easy to do, I apply with a paper towel and wipe off with microfiber cloth. Hpoe this helps someone
 
#14 ·
So my little tip is this
After drying you car ( I prefer a chamois leather) reverse your car a few feet and hit the brakes to create a little jolt then do the same going forward.
This will get the extra water out of the gutters and crevasses. Dry them off and your good to go
Simple but it'll help prevent those streaks caused by water coming out of the wing mirrors and door handles etc
 
#16 ·
Old thread but thought I'd chime in:

Foam Cannon: Tried this, with a low pressure cannon on a hose and a higher pressure on a pressure washer. In my opinion it's just not worth it. It's such a small car and a good rinse off, followed by a very soapy washing, especially if you're using the 2 bucket system, and you're done pretty quickly without a bunch of "equipment".

Not sure how they are for the car, but I usually use an artificial chamois to dry it off. (Years ago someone told me the natural ones will take off plain carnauba wax. I usually use an acrylic type final coating (Klasse) a few times a year.)
 
#18 ·
Sounds like a sales brochure by a brand new member? And kind of reads like an AI post. Hmmm.
 
#19 ·
I reported it along with two other brand new members that joined in the last few hours. All posts are just a bit "off." I'm betting they are AI and just getting post counts up so they can access more features and flood the forum with spam.
 
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Reactions: agent008
#20 ·
Sounds like a sales brochure by a brand new member? And kind of reads like an AI post. Hmmm.
I reported it along with two other brand new members that joined in the last few hours. All posts are just a bit "off." I'm betting they are AI and just getting post counts up so they can access more features and flood the forum with spam.
I'm confused. Was there another post that was deleted?
 
#21 ·
Yes. I removed the spam but the posts in this thread actually got deleted automatically and I missed the comments on them.

It is actually easier to keep the forum cleaned up if the posts are reported but not commented on.

Even worse is when they are quoted, as they often contain hidden links that are saved in the quote even after the original post is deleted. That didn't happen here, but has in other instances.
 
#23 ·
Just bought a 2007 black GXP w/ 50k miles. To bring it back to where I live, I drove 200 miles through periodic rain and the occasional exploding buglet. I could just be imagining things, but it doesn’t seem to look as pristine as when I left the dealer’s lot on Friday 😏

The original post above is stickied, but from reading the comments, I’m assuming the information is outdated. Where can I find a helpful post that provides a good explanation of an updated basic wash procedure? I’m currently looking for clues in the tomes of Gandalf the White…err…I mean Rob the Elder… but I thought maybe I’d accelerate the process by just coming out of the shadows and asking the community directly.
 
#24 ·
My quick 2 cents to Man of Missouri...

1) Ceramic coat the car: Clean, iron removal, clean, claybar, clean, polish, clean, ceramic coat. You can do your self if you get a polisher. Lots of youtube. This will protect your car for 1-2 years, and make washing your car way easier and faster. I like GYEON MOHS EVO.

2). Top protection: Protect top with Chemical Guy's converitble top protector. This should last about a year. I wash gently with a very soft tire brush or horse hair brush, then let it dry thoroughly, then do 2 coats of protection. Open top, then lay a big sheet under to cover windshield and sides, then lay top back down. Cover rear window (hard area to get). Can use foam brush in spots too.

2). Simple wash:
  • Make sure you're in the shade if possible.
  • Get your wash bucket ready. Cheap 5 gal bucket (Lowes) with dirt guard (Viking on Amazon) placed in the bottom to keep mit from to bottom ($5 bucket + $10 guard). Just get a decent soap from Adams or Chemical Guys, etc.
    • I don't use 2 buckets because I ring out the dirty water before dunking my mit. Just don't think there's a lot to worry about myself.
    • I use 2 mits as explained below.
  • Clean wheels first with a basic cleaner like Adams, and a mit that you use just for wheels (I like to keep separate with all the brake dust; you can use a soft wheel brush too if aftermarket wheels with spokes). Rinse.
  • Foam it all down, and rinse if you want to (I often don't rinse and just go straight to washing at this point).
    • You don't really need to foam at all, but it's nice to get the initial layer off.
    • Get a cheap foaming gun that attaches to the garden hose (don't really even need, but I think it's a waste to hook one to a pressure washer...no need for all that and pressure washers can damage things if you get too close).
  • Wash car with clean mit. Keep wet and soapy! Wring out dirty (don't dunk dirty mit in the water) before rewetting. I use 2 mits, one for all upper parts, and one for the very lower area that may be more dirty as a safety precaution.
    • Again, I don't use 2 buckets, but instead, ring out all the dirty water before dunking the mit again. Not as good, but not an issue.
  • Rinse well.
    • If you can filter the water to eliminate spots, that's awesome. More cost but nice to have.
  • Dry
    • I blow mine off first with leaf blower. Gets water out of wheel parts, crevasses, door handles, etc.
    • Then use good car drying towel (get 2 to rotate each wash...our car should only need 1 though per wash) to finish up. (Wash after use.). I like this towel: The Rag Company Gauntlet Car Drying Towel - 70/30 Korean Microfiber, Dries Faster Without Scratching, 900gsm, 20x30 inches.
    • Can use artificial chamois on windows...if you use on car, keep very clean and just drag across/use lightly. Towels are safer.
  • Note
    • I will often rinse the top but not always "wash" it every time. You can gently use a mit or a really soft brush (be very gentle) if you'd like to. You don't need a bunch of soap either...keep it light if you do wash it. My 2 cents.

Solstices are so small there's not a whole lot to clean so it can be done pretty fast. I can, in a hurry, do a quick wash and dry of my car in about 15-20 minutes. (More thorough takes about 20-25 minutes.).
 
#27 ·
Paint care.

Wash with 2 bucket method. Loads of water to rinse. Gently dry.

Clay with lots of lube. I've not tried the "iron" removal but saw it once on a car show. I'm not "sold" on it but can't disclaim it's effectiveness either. I've never had a problem or poor results with clay. This step is also called "decontaminating" the pain. It gets rid of all of the small contaminants stuck on the surface and is a key step prior to the next.

Polish. Dual action polisher and use only as aggressive of a polishing product as needed. There are many videos available on-line. Autogeek dot net has many. I use Meguiar's mirror glaze. This step is also called "paint correction" in that it removes imperfections, swirls, etc.

Seal - aka "wax". Natural wax (carnauba) tends to leave a warmer and deep shine but will require more frequently application. Synthetic can be a bit more work to apply but will last longer. Synthetic also tends to have a "cold" shine. I prefer it on my Mysterious (black) Solstice for appearance and more-so for it's longevity. Mine is a garage queen so a single synthetic sealant in the spring lasts all year.

For the top, gentle detergent and, as Rob said, no real pressure. You don't want to grind contaminants into the canvas. I use a fake "horsehair" type brush and would describe the cleaning action as "floating" the dirt off of the surface. When dry treat the canvas. Many use Raggtop or Aerospace 303 and report good results.

The better shape you get your paint in the quicker these steps go. Also be warned that the better you get your paint the more imperfections you'll find because you're getting pickier with each detail!