Pontiac Solstice Forum banner
21 - 31 of 31 Posts
They were probably paid good money, but the bean counters at HQ said "find a cheaper way"................
 
It's a viable system. The vast majority of cars have never had an issue. Personally I am glad it's a low cost functional system.
 
I have a 2006 solstice that has not released well. Now it takes two people to get the trunk to raise. Also found the "rear compartment frt panel reinforcement" rusted and broke in half. Now the trunk will not stay open when you final get it to open. GM part #10350343 $65.00 just for the metal rod itself. Otherwise I love my solstice. Check with GM. Not under any recall
 
I'm not sure if it's,the torsion metal bar spring you speak of but you may want to try the mod for helper springs from Home Depot/Lowes. It,really helps the trunk "pop" costs about $6
 
Replacing the torsion bars is tedious but not difficult. The rear bumper cover comes off to gain access. I documented it in the punisher thread. The only tricky part is remembering to remove the two small bolts that secure the ends of the bumper cover to the rear fender / quarter panels.
 
ChopTop is right on.

The trunk mechanism consists of a cable assembly that is mounted to the front trunk bulkhead. When you have the trunk open, stand on the left side of the car and look at the front of the trunk. You will see the cable assembly there. It has multiple electrical connectors plugged into it and it is right below the tulip panel.

The BCM commands a set of relays that are part of the cable assembly. Its #19 in the attached drawing.
The cable assembly is connected by a cable to the trunk lock. #14 in the drawing. When the button is pushed, the trunk lock is released by a relay on the cable assembly.

The cable assembly is also connected to the buttress locks, one left and one right. In the drawing you can see a cable snaking to the right as part of the cable assembly and connecting with the T cable that imparts the motion to unlock the two buttress locks inside the trunk lid.

If when you push the button to open the trunk one of the buttresses does not release, it is probably the cable end connector - a plastic part - that has failed. Once you get the trunk open by manually releasing the offending buttress, you can gain access to the release cable end by prying down on the trunk lid cover (fabric material over plastic). There are a couple of threads with instructions and pictures showing how to repair the buttress cable end connector. One method is to use a split lead fishing weight and crimping it onto the end of the cable - works very well. The other method is to buy a new factory plastic end connector and installing that. A worse alternative is to get a new T cable. Costs more and you have to remove and reinstall the cable.

If after you get the two buttresses released, the trunk still is not opening, then it is a failure in the relay or the cable at the cable assembly.

I have never seen any member state that the trunk release lock has failed. All failures I have seen to date are one of the buttress end conecters.

Let us know what your exact problem is and maybe we can offer better help.:thumbs:
I am having trouble with the trunk opening. The computer is saying that the trunk is ajar but it isn't. I have charged the battery, and pushed to release the trunk but nothing. Do you have any recommendations on how to fix the problem?
 
I am having trouble with the trunk opening. The computer is saying that the trunk is ajar but it isn't. I have charged the battery, and pushed to release the trunk but nothing. Do you have any recommendations on how to fix the problem?
That sounds like an issue with the switch on the trunk latch (or the wiring to the switch) at the front of the deck lid down in the middle between the humps. I would suggest you take a look and make sure nothing got disconnected. If not, make sure the switch is working OK. You can also disconnect the connector and short the two contacts together (on the harness side) to see if the car registers that. If so, the switch/latch is the problem.

Image
 
I have had problems with the buttress release several times and have used the split-shot lead sinker to fix, but it is not permanent and has failed on me. I keep my buttress release tool in the glove box just in case, not in the trunk.

On another link they was information about relocating the trunk interior release cable (emergency release?) to the driving compartment, but I do not see how this would release the buttresses when pulled, or am I looking at this wrong. If someone would be small enough to get trapped in our trunk and pulled the release cable would it really release the truck lid??
 
I think GM should treat this defect as a safety recall.
How is the inability to open the trunk a safety hazard that would necessitate a recall by the manufacturer?
 
You're right Chickenwire, caught by a zombie thread. Still..I'm curious how anyone would make the connection.
 
21 - 31 of 31 Posts