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06 solstice sliver.wicked coupe,dirtbike,4wheeler
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well I decided to change the gear lube in the rearend, searched for 2 hours for my gearlube I bought... crap.so I got soe valvoling synthetic with las additive in it and changed it...apparently either the clutched are chatters byond additive or...Valvoline is skimpy on additive, I will get some acdelgoto additive and add it.if that don't help Ill build another rearend for it and swap it out, I may use the 342 gear I have . less than 30000 miles, I don't think the gm dealer that didn't the seal recall put the additive in it and it's been probably chattering ever since effing up the clutches. You cant fix stupid,
on another note this car has auto trans, it also has a forward link/mount that my 06 manual didnt have, not up to the trans but about 1 foot forward of the diff with big bolts attaching it to the tunnel. I dont remember seeing that on my base coupe, but it may be there.or was it a gxp auto trans only item? perhaps Ill look in the gm parts diagram and see. oh ya my rearend is still chattering all to hell and back..after another drive today. time to get the additive,
 

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2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP - Mysterious (with unkown origin blue sparkle in rear bumper cover paint)
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how do you get the handle out without splitting it? even if you unbolt it from the dash how do you go about getting it out with the boomerang still attached to the dashboard?

I am asking a question because I have never been able to do it without splitting that grip.
As promised photos..
After removing the dash “cup” panel under the grab handle (pry up from rear edge as there are hooks on the front edge)
Undo the two 10mm bolts.
-Then tilt the handle towards the passenger seat out on the bottom edge.
Hand Vehicle Arm Steering part Car


-Now that the bottom metal part of the handle is free, rotate the top of the handle towards you (away from the dash) to get the top metal part clear of the dash pads internal plastic.
Hood Automotive tire Automotive design Vehicle Steering wheel


- now just lift it up and out of the hole at the top and you should be good to go :)
Automotive design Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Vehicle door


-assembly is simply the reverse of the above. Hope this helps.
 

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2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP
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That does help. It also means the that handle can be glued together in a more secure manner because it never has to come off except to replace the vinyl which can be done without having to take the handle apart.

Just have to be careful not to scratch the dashboard near the glove box with the metal end of the handle.
 

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2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP - Mysterious (with unkown origin blue sparkle in rear bumper cover paint)
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That does help. It also means the that handle can be glued together in a more secure manner because it never has to come off except to replace the vinyl which can be done without having to take the handle apart.

Just have to be careful not to scratch the dashboard near the glove box with the metal end of the handle.
I know Soup and others have posted numerous times about this over the years, i just couldnt find the threads with pictures.
Once you do it once it is a head slapper “duh” moment. Like twisting the cat out with the turbo still installed. I struggled several times and finally got it on the third turbo swap.
I think Soup has referred to it like one of those 3d puzzles.
 

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This is good information to have because those handles do break easily and I have seen one get broken when someone removed the boomerang without taking the handle apart.

I will take the time to make a video on how to remove the boomerang without loosing the clips in the dashboard and also showing how to undo the wiring from the buttons. I will also cover how to get the handle out without taking it apart.
 

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06 solstice sliver.wicked coupe,dirtbike,4wheeler
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additive cam in a few days ago. but I had some minor surgery on my back last Thursday...I may try to put it in in a day or so...befor the next slice&dice next week.. I hate DR's.
 

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06 solstice sliver.wicked coupe,dirtbike,4wheeler
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I backed solstice onto ramps on the left side, slid under it,removed the plug and added the additive today. it helped a lot, not tottaly gone, but Im gladd the clutches werent tottaly dead from no additive for whoo knows how long.( I could figure it out if I looked at the service reckords) Ive rebuilt a lot of rearends, from gm,ford,mopar,eaton,dana,tiodee even yamaha&kowasaki. Ive seen burnt up clutches, wore out clutches, chattered clutches & much more. this one was somewhat different in the sounds it was making.Im quite happy the additive helped it. and happily surprised it did. witch is also kind of disappointing as I was wanting to build a 3.42 ratio for it...I will hold off on that for a while now.
 

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Did the differential vent TSB. Had to drop the exhaust -- a first for me. The lower exhaust nuts are reachable from beside the car, turmo g the steering all the way to the right helps. Just had to undo these two nuts at the front and unclip the muffler from its four rubber mounts -- kind of a pain to do but managed to unclip by inserting a flat blade screw driver into the rubber mounts where the muffler support goes into.

The TSB tells to remove the vent valve cap and connect a hose on to it. I found the vent "nub" kind of short and I get the feeling the hose might come lose at any time but fastened the hose clamp as much as it would go. Hope it stays in place.
 

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kind of a pain to do but managed to unclip by inserting a flat blade screw driver into the rubber mounts where the muffler support goes into.
Little tip for next time around

Windex brand glass cleaner and a pair of channel locks. Pops them off and on easy as easy can be.

channel locks
Sleeve Tool Nipper Pliers Font


the reason why channel locks work the best is because the larger you make them the more offset the jaws end up being when you close them all the way. this allows you to grab the back side of the rubber and on the front side the jaw will be on the pin not the rubber. so when you squeeze and the rubber pops over the barb then you can take your hands and pull the mount off from there. The Windex is what makes it so you can pull it off with your hands and also makes it easier for it to initially get over the barb.
 
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I think if the vent isant already leeking it dont need the "update kit" there is a thin sheet metel plate in the diff that is a baffel cover.it's flymsey at best.and it wouldent take a lot for it to be bent where it did not do it's job and that cab be just what the leeking vents are.that would be a assembly issue, not from any thing done after assembly. if the car has been on long trips and not leeked...it probably wont.untill a seal dies.and that has nothing to do with the vent unless it's cloged.
 

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Thanks Mark, in my case the car with around 10k miles had a good amount of crud stuck around the diff and the nearer from the vent the more crud there was. I decided to replace the vent, will clean the diff housing around the vent area and look back after a couple thousand miles. Hopefully the issue will have been fixed, if it is I will then change the oil.
 

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it may have another leek from a seal, keep an eye on it like you plan to do and you might be able to find the one leaking. none of my 3sols 06(61000),07gxp(29952) or the 09 (130000 miles)coupe had any signs of seepage. gunk built up is usaly a good indacator, but may cars that have been undercoated may appear to have a gunk leak issue when it's just the undercoating for rust prevention. I doubt there are any gear lubes on the market that still foam like many years past could do.of coarse if any H2o gets in there that could cause it to foam witch will also push it out.
 

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I wish I were doing something to one of my solstices, driving working on or whatever...but some slicking &dicing dr appt today & 2 weeks ago has kept me away from them. I did manage to put the gear lube additive in last week but...now I probably couldn't get in just to go for a drive. heck just driving this couch/electrick recliner is driving me nuts. I don't drink but the wife may have to make a run to the rum store to see cap't Morgan. & possibly coconut Malibu too. I should of pulled my computers and sent to zzp for a tune while Im down......oops. yes I apparently I don't **** for brains..
 

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2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP - Mysterious (with unkown origin blue sparkle in rear bumper cover paint)
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Been sick since a week ago Friday. Finally started feeling better to do some light projects.

first up, i flipped around my santana cup holder as it was flinging open every time i stepped on the gas.

then i pulled the interior plastics from the door sills to the back waterfall and put in a new Audio Frog sub. It was one of the only ones that fit the oem monsoon bass enclosure.
Also added just a bit of killmat to the envlosure as it is very resonant. That actually made a difference. The frog audio sub is more punchy but isnt life changing. I would recommend it to someone looking to replace a bloen OEM sub but it was only a minor audio upgrade in itself.

fit was near perfect and just had to drill a few pilot holes and desolder the connector feom the old sub and solder it onto the new one. About as plug and play as ine could hope for.

before i put it back in i spent at least two hours thumping the rear wall and chasing rattles.
I found some in the trunk opening mechanism behind the drivers side tulip panel.
Some of the bolts were very hard to get to but i found a couple “loos-ish” ones and tightening them all down helped quite a bit…


Hood Automotive lighting Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design
Automotive tire Camera lens Cameras & optics Camera accessory Lens
 

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The new sub you got is an 8" as measured from edge of basket to edge of basket. The OE sub is a true 8" meaning the cone and surround is 8" not including the screw lip.
 

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2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP - Mysterious (with unkown origin blue sparkle in rear bumper cover paint)
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The new sub you got is an 8" as measured from edge of basket to edge of basket. The OE sub is a true 8" meaning the cone and surround is 8" not including the screw lip.
Yes it was a tiny bit smaller. As was the magnet, which was dissappinting. However when i put it all in and fired it up it was better. Just not drastically so.

Again, if i had a blown OEM sub, this makes a nice replacement.

an actual improvement would require more time and money than i am willing to spend at the moment.
I also have Audio Frog door speakers and like them a lot.
 

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That subwoofer is a decent woofer. it uses a rare earth magnet and it has an exceptionally high effiency at 91dB.

Do you have packing peanuts? if you do pull the sub and enclosure. take the subwoofer out and fill the enclosure with packing peanuts. make a box that measures 12" x 12" x 12" and mark the inside of the box up the height in 1" increments. dump the packing peanuts out of the enclosure into the box. tell me what mark it fills to inside the box. This is how you get the volume of the enclosure. I am willing to bet it is undersized. I say this because you said the bass was punchier then it was with the OE sub. That leads me to believe that the enclosure is too small. If that is the case it is not going to be too far off and the addition of some decron-polyfill (pillow stuffing) lightly packed into the enclosure will help that issue.

I am thinking this subwoofer would be a better fit for the enclosure.


The power handling of focal product is on the high side from real world. That subwoofer would work well with a 100 to 150 watt amplifier.
 
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