Steering angle sensor is bad or that system has a short maybe? idk. just a shot in the dark. the sensor only seems to cost 40 bucks, if it turns out to be bad.

 

First things first. There is a ground strap on the drivers side that hits the front corner of the engine, this has a tendency come to loose and start to cause electrical issues. Make sure it is secure, tight and clean. If it's corroded, loosen it and clean it up. Then, if you are still having issues, you will need a new battery. Regardless, you're going to need this anyway because with these cars, when the battery gets low or goes bad, one gets all sorts of electrical gremlins. I've seen what you are describing simply from a bad battery and/or loose ground where I told you to check. Once you get a new battery make sure it's charging properly. If it isn't, then get a new alternator. Then and only then, can we start to help you if you still have all these issues. I'm willing to bet though if you check the grounding strap and get a new battery, all these issues will more then likely go away. Please report back after you've done the above....

 

I am pretty sure he said has both new alternator, and new battery. I guess check your ground straps homie!

 

I read what he said. It doesn't mean that a faulty ground hasn't caused his new alternator to fail. It doesn't mean that just because it's new, its wasn't bad to begin with. I've seen plenty of that happen in the dealer world....right from the OE. There have been several people here that have gotten bad alternators from the dealer.

Since you're both new here, you will eventually understand what I mean when I say, these cars have some weird quirks....and the electrical system is one of them.

 

Hello,
The battery is new but it doesn't always hold a charge. If I jump it it may run for 20 minutes but then the traction control light, ABD light, battery light, and the engine light comes on. The in idles rough and I lose my brakes and stearing and it dies and won't start. Then I turn the key and it says - ENGPWR REDUCED, SERVICE TRACTION - SERVICE ESC and change oil (even if I already have).

Your first sentence means your 'new' battery is bad. The following sentences indicate either you have a loose ground, a bad alternator, or both.

 

I thought so too but my mechanic tested it and so did the dealer. The alternator was changed twice. A loose ground is what I have been saying to the dealer and my mechanic that. Supposedly they checked. What about all the brake check engine lights problems?

 

Your new battery may not be bad, it may just not be getting a good enough charge. As a general rule, you should never rely on your alternator to charge a dead battery. It isn't good for the battery or the alternator. Using a battery charger to do a slow charge (2 Amp) is the best option.

A bad ground will not usually damage an alternator, but it will certainly keep it from working. In addition to the already mentioned ground there is another one on the right side frame rail near the hood hinge mechanism, and I would check the battery cables and the battery connection at the forward edge of the Underhood Fuse Block to make sure they are tight and have clean contact.

You mentioned replacing a fuse. Which one was it, and have you had to replace it again?

All of the fault warnings you are getting can be triggered by low system voltage, so they are probably not primary indicators of the problem. (But still could be.)

 

Pinging this thread - I have a similar issue now. I'll check the ground strap first.

Not happy that I can drive the car out of the neighborhood (1/2 mile) see a battery light come on. Turn around and pull up app to see the actual voltage is low. Drive home immediately, and just as I'm clearing the threshold of the garage - the dash lights up like a Christmas tree while the engine goes into limp mode.

Batter charged up and still in limp mode - clear codes on ECM - engine runs smooth. Still have SERVICE ESC and SERVICE TRACTION showing on dash.

So even if I determine it's an alternator problem and replace it, or a battery and replace it or BOTH for good measure... Now what? I can't clear the problem with my tools, so due to a bad alternator or ground or battery....I also get to pay a dealership $100 to clear some codes that shouldn't have come up to begin with. Great.


I love this car, but my next car will be built before 1980.

 

One thing that has been effective is to disconnect the battery, let it sit for a half hour or so, and try again.