Never had a problem.

 

Don't think it can be done, but atleast not only is it a quick press of the button, it has to be held down a little longer then the lock/unlock buttons before it works.

 

I have this problem at least twice a month. The keys are in my pocket, and when I sit on the couch in the living room to watch TV, sometimes that button gets pushed by the key ring. The last thing I do before going to bed every night is go out and check the car to be sure that I haven't accidentally popped the trunk. I would love to be able to reprogram it for 2 pushes of the button to open. Had the same issue with the Commander...kept popping the back glass unintentionally. Since my wife drives it most of the time I don't carry that key in my pocket with me anymore for that very reason.

 

Dude, your pants are too tight. Go bigger or lose some weight:lol:

 

I think I'll get a small hard sided case to keep the fob and key in.

worg

 

When I'm at home, I leave the keys to all vehicles out of my pocket, and hang them on a key rack. Pick up of these key holders, hang up all your keys, so when you leave the house, grab your keys and go. You can make a simple one by just getting a board & putting nails in it, or make that as fancy as you wish.

 

It has crossed my mind that while I am driving, my knee may accidentally hit the trunk release button on the key fab and cause my trunk lid to open while driving on the highway. I don't think that would be too good.

 

The button won't work when the car is in gear.

 

Maybe if its on and in gear. It certainly works while off and in gear.

 

Yes, on and in gear. What would the harm be if it was pressed when it was off and in gear? :lol:

 

I believe I read from someone that posted something from the owner's manual that after a certain speed, the trunk release is disabled. Not sure about whether the conditions or "on" or "on and in gear" matter though.

 

Until I got my hardtop, I don't recall ever hitting the trunk release by accident. Within a month of putting it on, it happened twice while getting into the car, at work. I had to listen to the warning bell all the way home, until I could lift the top off, to reset the trunk lid. Next time the top goes on, I'm opening the fob and covering the trunk switch, unless someone comes up with this programming change.

 

Get one of the safety flips off a joystick and attach it to your keyfob then.

Maybe some testing is in order with some kind of tie-down to prevent damage. Maybe on my way home tonight I will do that.

 

Twisted Love

Get one of the safety flips off a joystick and attach it to your keyfob then.

Maybe some testing is in order with some kind of tie-down to prevent damage. Maybe on my way home tonight I will do that.

Thanks! Great idea worth trying.
I don't know about taking the flip off's from my Helicopter
Joystick (Flight Simulator), but running a strap from, wheel well to wheel well, sounds good! I have done everything possible to lock down my deck lid by taking the torsion rod ends loose from the flimsy hinges, aligned the lid--somewhat-- I truly think the lid is warped as well! The spacing around the lid-to-rear compartment is Even all the way around now, but the drivers side corner, right behind your left shoulder, will not lay level to the compartment and probably would leak. It's up about an inch and can not be adjusted any further to the best of my efforts. After 6 weekends of study and manipulation, I think its got to go to a shop. Yesterday was the first day the lid was not standing at 90 degrees open. I have not been able to drive her for this entire time! It looked pretty good after disableing the torsion rods and centering the lid, so, though not fixed, I took it for a ride. That didn't take long, because my drivers side mirror, kept me miserable as all I could focus on, was that front corner sticking up--ruining the lines of the vehicle. I will most likely run that strap test today, if it will stop raining & see if I can pop the lid while the car is exceeding the 2 mile per hour safety lock-out. I'm out of warrantty @ 21K, so depending on additional accessment, It may end up in a body shop, not the dealer. The dealer charges 85.00 an hour plus parts. R/L Hinge with R/L Torsion rods cost about 110.00 (unpainted) and the deck lid, comes in at just under 500.00 (unpainted), Body Shop Price, not the dealers parts cost. If all of the above were performed at a dealer, it would probably cost me 2,000. to 2,200. Body Shop probably 1,200. to 1,500., If it's an insurance claim? In other words, BOTH negotiate the repair cost if their being paid by the insurance company. If your an individual, there's no negotiation except it is almost always 1/2 what the dealer qoutes. It's a lot like Health Care. I have great Health Care and I get to see the Medical charges after a medical event and then I get to see what my insurer did pay and it's always accepted by the medical provider! No insurance and the the patient pays 6,000. for that same catherization, but with insurance, it only paid 2,400.00 for mine. See the delema?
It's still raining, shoot! Well, I can strap her, in her space in the gararge now and wait 5 minutes as they say.
If it releases, I'll have no poblem suffering a controlled pop and reporting it for repair and let the Shop repair the electrical flaw too! 250.00 deductible and get the free, (Body Shop),--Pick Her Up, "Detail". I have a very high opinion of my dealer as long as the vehicle in question is in warranty, after that, Oil Change and Tire Rotations ONLY. I appreciate your input and other than having a very strong passenger with the top down to catch the lid, running a strap with microfiber protection from the adjustable strap to contact points on the car is the way to go. Thanks Again Excelsior! If this thing opens, I want everyone in warranty to know about this before it happens to someone else. If mine opens, I'm sure that there will be others that have, are unknowingly or will malfunction in the future. :cryin:

 

I tied my trunk down last night and probably hit the open button 1000 times on the way home. I can say without a doubt that the ONLY time it opened before stopping in my driveway was at a light at full stop with my foot on the brake and the car was not in motion. Yes, I tried unlocking the door while in motion and tried it as well. It stayed closed.

I can assure you that the same motion sensor that locks your doors is probably the same sensor that prevents this from opening once in motion.

 

Yes you are correct! both circuits are employed through the (BCM) Body Control Module, rear lid and door locks. I'm glad you had no problems I have not tested mine yet, and greatly hope there is an explanation for what my Sol did on it's own. You have to remember that I jumped out of the car in neutral, running with the hand brake on, But I never manualy unlocked the door to get out after stopping??? Hey, it's stopped raining. Be right back.