Hi group. Has anyone done a replacement of crankshaft sensor in their solstice Gxp 2.0 litre? I have a code po 335 and one solution is to change the sensor. Is there a technique that someone can share with me, I do have a hoist so wondering if it’s easier to do from underneath as the sensor is just above starter? Rick
Replacing crankshaft sensor
Rixfix
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Most of the connectors used in the car can be disassembled, and the service manual lists a release tool along with the connector body and pins, so it could be possible to repair the one you have.
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The connector body is a Molex MX64 Series 3-Way, part number 31403-3710. Mouser lists them in-stock for $1.07: 31403-3710I will look into it, now that I have service manuals on loan to meIts around 25$ for a new connector, so thats the back up if I cant repair...
The connector sockets are Molex 33467-0003. Mouser lists them in-stock for $0.27: 33467-0003
You can download the connector service manual here: Molex MX64 Manual and it has very clear instructions (with pictures) for dissassembly.
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That was super helpful. Now at least I can try to take connector apart!
John,
What a great resource, this manual!
Also, gotta love Mouser Electronics. They come in handy to someone wiring or rewiring a car. I got to save one of the BCM connectors I had mangled, because Mouser carried spares.
What a great resource, this manual!
Also, gotta love Mouser Electronics. They come in handy to someone wiring or rewiring a car. I got to save one of the BCM connectors I had mangled, because Mouser carried spares.
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New connector for crankshaft sensor. in. Solstice started right up!
All codes wiped. Now 3 codes are back and car is running super rich! What. did I miss?
I cleaned MAF sensor before, code went away-replaced 02 sensor, 3 codes went away including code for Evap. Replaced crankshaft sensor AND new connector-that code is gone. What did i miss???? ARRRRRGH.
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I posted pics of them earlier-here's the 3 i have now with. new. o2 sensor, new crankshaft sensor, and i cleaned the maf sensor only with sensor cleaner. I got her out for a nice drive to the golf course, but a rough ride home-ran very rich blowing smoke.
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I didn't want to assume.
P0031: HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low Voltage Sensor 1 - Heater voltage supply is shorted to ground
P0100: MAF Sensor Circuit - One of the MAF wires is open, has high resistance, or is shorted to ground
P0458: Evap Purge Solenoid Control Circuit Low Voltage - Control circuit is shorted to ground
It appears that all of these sensors share the X1 connector on the ECM, which is also used for the crankshaft position sensor. It is possible that connector is loose or has some corrosion or contamination in it. I would look there first, then at the wiring going to it for pinched or chafed wires.
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Thanks John! At friends cottage for weekend-I suspected wiring/connector again too-I'll be hard at checking all your suggestions Tuesday
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Looks like a great way to enjoy the weekend. I'll think of you while I watch the rain fall here.Thanks John! At friends cottage for weekend-I suspected wiring/connector again too-I'll be hard at checking all your suggestions Tuesday
Rain much there at the moment?
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Frequent spring rains are normal, but we have had more and more frequent so we are well above average for the year, and everything is nice and green. Of course the farmers that missed the dry period are now behind schedule in gettting crops in the ground, and this also usually means a dry summer. So some negative possibilities.
This happens periodically so it isn't anything really new, and I remember a year very much like this in 1988 when I built my house. Too much rain in the spring played havoc with construction and doubled the time it should have taken to build. Then it was so dry when we were ready to landscape that we were not allowed to water and nothing was planted until late in the fall.
Judy is unhappy because she and a friend are at an outdoor music festival and are getting soaked.
check relay # 26 in the under hood fuse box. That relay is what powers both O2 sensor heaters, the Purge valve solenoid, the MAF and also the VAC pump relay if you have the vacuum pump when GM added mid year in 2008.
If that relay is not working properly or the trigger to that relay is not making it from the ECM to the relay then those sensors would show as a ground fault on the signal wires. The fast that all of the sensors are reading the exact same kind of an error and the only common point between all of those sensors being that relay that is where I would start my investigation.
Pull the relay # 14 and plug it into the #26 location. Orientation doesn't matter. Just make sure that the relays both have the same number on them. The #14 relay is your rear defroster.
Drive the car and see if that solves the issue. If it does then you have a bad relay. If not then follow the directions below.
In order to test you need to have the relay plugged in when performing the test. Take a piece of stranded scrap wire, stranded wire is best, something thin. Strip one end so there is a decent amount of exposed wire, it needs to be long enough to wrap around one of the pins a coupe of times. Strip the other end only a little bit, this is the end you are going to use for testing. For this next bit if you don't have a needle style set of test leads you can use that wire. We need to test the 4 locations in the fuse box the relay pushes into. Use the short stripped end and push it onto one of the slots or use your test lead and put it into the slot. DC volt test so ground the other test lead. You are looking for 12 volts. There is going to be only one pin that has 12 volts on it (key off for this test). Once you find the location of the 12 volts remember it because we don't need to do anything else with it. We need to test the other 3 locations and that needs to be done with the relay inserted. So wrap the long end of the wire around one of the pins that goes into one of those other 3 locations. Insert the relay and then test the wire for 12 volts. You need to locate the pin that reads 12volts, once you have located that leave the relay in and go and turn the key to the ON position. retest that wire, it should no longer be 12 volts. If it is then we know that the signal is not getting to the relay from the ECM. If you have a GXP inspect pin F12 in connector X1 for any corossion or the terminal pin not being fully seated into the clip. You can also test that F12 pin to see if you have 12V on it. If you don't then you know it is a wire issue. If you do then the problem is going to be either the ECM or the connection between that pin and the coorsponding pin on the ECM.
If that relay is not working properly or the trigger to that relay is not making it from the ECM to the relay then those sensors would show as a ground fault on the signal wires. The fast that all of the sensors are reading the exact same kind of an error and the only common point between all of those sensors being that relay that is where I would start my investigation.
Pull the relay # 14 and plug it into the #26 location. Orientation doesn't matter. Just make sure that the relays both have the same number on them. The #14 relay is your rear defroster.
Drive the car and see if that solves the issue. If it does then you have a bad relay. If not then follow the directions below.
In order to test you need to have the relay plugged in when performing the test. Take a piece of stranded scrap wire, stranded wire is best, something thin. Strip one end so there is a decent amount of exposed wire, it needs to be long enough to wrap around one of the pins a coupe of times. Strip the other end only a little bit, this is the end you are going to use for testing. For this next bit if you don't have a needle style set of test leads you can use that wire. We need to test the 4 locations in the fuse box the relay pushes into. Use the short stripped end and push it onto one of the slots or use your test lead and put it into the slot. DC volt test so ground the other test lead. You are looking for 12 volts. There is going to be only one pin that has 12 volts on it (key off for this test). Once you find the location of the 12 volts remember it because we don't need to do anything else with it. We need to test the other 3 locations and that needs to be done with the relay inserted. So wrap the long end of the wire around one of the pins that goes into one of those other 3 locations. Insert the relay and then test the wire for 12 volts. You need to locate the pin that reads 12volts, once you have located that leave the relay in and go and turn the key to the ON position. retest that wire, it should no longer be 12 volts. If it is then we know that the signal is not getting to the relay from the ECM. If you have a GXP inspect pin F12 in connector X1 for any corossion or the terminal pin not being fully seated into the clip. You can also test that F12 pin to see if you have 12V on it. If you don't then you know it is a wire issue. If you do then the problem is going to be either the ECM or the connection between that pin and the coorsponding pin on the ECM.
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I don't know if this will help.
I was looking to the TIS with my car VIN and I found that there is an update related to the DTC code P0335.
See the TIS information of my car. (Opel GT)
There is:
See attachment:
![Image]()
I was looking to the TIS with my car VIN and I found that there is an update related to the DTC code P0335.
See the TIS information of my car. (Opel GT)
There is:
- "New software with diagnostic enhancements for DTC P0335 "
- "New calibration with diagnostic enhancements for DTC P0335 "
See attachment:
It appears that all of these sensors share the X1 connector on the ECM, which is also used for the crankshaft position sensor. It is possible that connector is loose or has some corrosion or contamination in it. I would look there first, then at the wiring going to it for pinched or chafed wires.
[/QUOTE]
Can you clarify what the X1 connector is? Im having similar issues. Replaced the CPS, error is still there, and scan tool shows no voltage from o2 sensor 1, but good voltage from 2nd o2 sensor. fuse 33 is good (swapped anyway) and relay 26 is good... Im in the same boat, running out of things to replace.
Also A/C clutch isnt engaging, but that may be a different issue.
[/QUOTE]
Can you clarify what the X1 connector is? Im having similar issues. Replaced the CPS, error is still there, and scan tool shows no voltage from o2 sensor 1, but good voltage from 2nd o2 sensor. fuse 33 is good (swapped anyway) and relay 26 is good... Im in the same boat, running out of things to replace.
Also A/C clutch isnt engaging, but that may be a different issue.
Borrowing John's descriptions for your error codes:
P0031: HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low Voltage Sensor 1 - Heater voltage supply is shorted to ground
P0100: MAF Sensor Circuit - One of the MAF wires is open, has high resistance, or is shorted to ground
P0458: Evap Purge Solenoid Control Circuit Low Voltage - Control circuit is shorted to ground
On X1, you have pin 6 controlling the EVAP solenoid (P0458), and pins 67, 68 to Heated O2 Sensor 1 (P0031).
Interestingly, MAF sensor signal (P0100) comes to the ECM on X2, pin 13.
Have you disconnected your ECM connectors and checked both the ECM side and the wiring harness side for signs of corrosion? Another suggestion is to follow the cables from the ECM onwards and try to find any point where they might be chafing against the chassis or something sharp.
EVAP, X1:
![Image]()
HO2S1, X1:
![Image]()
MAF, X2:
![Image]()
P0031: HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low Voltage Sensor 1 - Heater voltage supply is shorted to ground
P0100: MAF Sensor Circuit - One of the MAF wires is open, has high resistance, or is shorted to ground
P0458: Evap Purge Solenoid Control Circuit Low Voltage - Control circuit is shorted to ground
On X1, you have pin 6 controlling the EVAP solenoid (P0458), and pins 67, 68 to Heated O2 Sensor 1 (P0031).
Interestingly, MAF sensor signal (P0100) comes to the ECM on X2, pin 13.
Have you disconnected your ECM connectors and checked both the ECM side and the wiring harness side for signs of corrosion? Another suggestion is to follow the cables from the ECM onwards and try to find any point where they might be chafing against the chassis or something sharp.
EVAP, X1:
HO2S1, X1:
MAF, X2:
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