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Discussion starter · #61 ·
Here are pictures of the overlays, done in Red/Brown metallic vinyl.
They came from Reflective Concepts 👈 (hyperlinked for your convenience)


BEFORE (top) AFTER (bottom):

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BEFORE (top) AFTER (bottom):

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If the rain hold out, I'll be taking the car to the first cruise night I've been to all year. I absolutely LOVE this car and driving it is SO MUCH fun! Tonight's featured vehicles are "Orphans" - car companies which went defunct and/or are no longer around. I don't think I'll be winning accolades or prizes. I just want to get out and enjoy the car...

More pictures to come!
 
Discussion starter · #62 ·
I decided to snap a few pictures on my way home from work on Monday. On the last location I stopped at, a random guy pulled in, asking about the Solstice. He was driving a '97 Isuzu VehiCross.

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Here's the VehiCROSS! The guy (Tom) imported it from Japan. It's one of 12 RIGHT hand drive VX's in the U.S.. What makes this thing even more unsusal, are the factory mudflaps (only 50 sets made) the hood spears and factory running boards (both are extremely rare). We sat there chatting for a good 30 to 40 minutes.


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Then some elderly guy pulled in (Alan) who was telling up about the building and how his grandfather used to run certain dealings out of the back of this building for Al Capone. His grandfather later bought the building, but sold it in the 70's. It has since been lost to the government for back taxes. Knowing that little bit of hirtory, I decided to try to make this photo appear 'older' using various filters on my phone.



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Discussion starter · #65 · (Edited)
A few weeks ago, I picked up a dash bezel, set of aftermarket mudflaps and a base model rear bumper insert / valence.

I figured I was going to sell the mudflaps, possibly the valence, but was going to customize the dash. I don't have a place for my phone anywhere in the car and figured I'd splice a universal cell phone holder into the dash. This would make it simpler and much easier to access my GPS and streaming music.

I began by cutting a hole in the dash. I then used J/B Weld to fill in the holes and secure in the mobile phone holder.

Here is the aproximate location of the cell phone, once the holder is secured in place:

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Here's the hole I cut in the dash...


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...and the pieces I cut out...


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Using some wide masking tape, I covered the hole and used J/B Weld to cover the hole and help secure in the phone holder.


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👆 This is the preliminary mock up. I sanded the surface and re-epoxied the hole and solid J/B Weld.

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Discussion starter · #66 ·
Yesterday, I sanded it down again and filled in the recesses holes and remaining pits with more epoxy.

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This was last night, so the epoxy hasn't set up and hardened when I took these photo's. I'm thinking of making a couple items and making a few more changes to this dash. I'll be posting up my progress here...so stay tuned for more!

Again, thanks for showing interest.

- L
 
Discussion starter · #69 · (Edited)
I did some work on the dash and did the second test fit on the cell phone holder arm. There was a buildup of JB Weld right under where the arm articulates, which wasn't allowing the arm to sit properly. I had to sand the living Ba-Jeezis out of this area to get it to go in correctly. Unfortunately, there isn't a whole lot of room to get the sand paper in there. It's starting to take shape and look a lot better than the mess I started out with.

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That is a sanding block in the holder 👆 👆 👆

Standing back, I thought I might add some gauge pods to the dash...which poses a whole other set of problems. First, in order to do this and have it look right, I will have to recess the aftermarket gauges into the dash at least an inch...maybe a little more. To get a proper fit, I feel I would have to relocate that rectangular seatbelt light thing somewhere else...possibly to the small area under the radio. This would leave room above the hazard button and HVAC controls for two at least 2 gauges...maybe 3.

However, I could always put one gauge to the left side of the dash, by the A-Pillar and the other two to the right. This would look a little more balanced and allow for better visability for all the gauges.

I happen to have the aftermarket gauges that were in my G5 GT, but in all honesty, I wasn't completely sold on the overall look of the setup I had in the G5. Here's what that setup looked like:

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To be 100% honest, I think this 👆👆👆 looked really boring! I wasn't completly happy with the custom overlay - BECAUSE - it had a weird yellow / orange back lighting. I think a white back light would have looked better and would have matched the aftermarket gauges, as they are white. Plus, after looking at this for a while, I felt the lettering was too small and I should have added a shiny black arch to the bottom of the gauge overlay to better match the aftermarket ones. Unfortunately, if I do this and have the dash back lit in white, when it's dusk or dark out NOTHING in the interior will match.

When I sold the G5, I left the Black Cat dash overlay in the car.

I still have the OEM dash overlay from the G5 ( 👇 👇 👇) . It's sorta similar to the one in the Solstice, except it's white and doesn't have all kinds of red concentric circles.


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I'm not sure what I want to do. The original gauge overlay on the Solstice is kind of dark and is sometimes hard to see in the bright sunlight. I like the idea of a white face dash gauge overlay, because it might be easier to see....MIGHT. I would tend to stay away from white gauges becuase I have yet to see a set or series of white faced aftermarket gauges that I feel look good enough to actually buy-let alone put in my car. (JUST MY OPINION ) The one overlay I had from Black Cat is gone, so I don't have to worry about having or wanting to use that and trying to get it to match anything.

In all honesty, I don't like any of the gauge overlays (the ones from the G5 or the stock one in the Solstice). Unless I can find an oil pressure, trans temp and volt gauge that I like (and I looked around for months when I was doing this for the G5), I'm probably just going to leave well enough alone....

...Still, having a car without an oil gauge is going to drive me insane. If I don't add an oil pressure gauge, this will be the second car I've ever owned; where I didn't have or install one.
 
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...Still, having a car without an oil gauge is going to drive me insane. If I don't add an oil pressure gauge, this will be the second car I've ever owned; where I didn't have or install one.
Just out of curiosity, when was the last time you actually needed an oil pressure gauge in a street car? I felt the same way when I first got my Sky, but then I realized that I hadn't had an oil pressure problem since the '80s and that was in a car built in the '70s.
 
Discussion starter · #71 ·
Just out of curiosity, when was the last time you actually needed an oil pressure gauge in a street car? I felt the same way when I first got my Sky, but then I realized that I hadn't had an oil pressure problem since the '80s and that was in a car built in the '70s.
Very last time was in my 2006 GTO. It also happened 2000 Firebird V6. Time before that was in my 1991 Trans Am convertible. In th GTO, there was also a ECM issue that was pre /bpost detonating cylinder #4. The 2000 'Bird lost oil pressure and hurt the motor...which is VERY likely my own fault. I beat that car like it owed me money. Still, if I knew the oil pressure dropped, I could have lifted. It might not have made any difference....(not completely sure)....but I'd rather not rebuild 👉 ANOTHER 👈 motor.
 
To get oil pressure you will have to decide where you will install the sensor. I have oil pressure in both our cars.


RTE
 
Discussion starter · #73 ·
Discussion starter · #74 ·
A little more progress on the dash. I am going to put the seat belt warning thing under the radio. Otherwise, this is what I've done in the past week (which isn't much). There are a few imperfections in the epoxy, which I have to fill. Also, cutting out the seat belt light thing created a problem with the line at the bend in the dash plastic. I'm going to have to try sanding it out, so I have a nice, even line for a color transition. The face will be a lighter color, similar to stock, but the top and outside edge, I was thinking of doing a flat back to help even out the sissy handle


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Another thing I'll be doing is making a few rings to go around the HVAC buttons. I think the chrome rings around almost everything else look nice, but there needs to be more consistency on the dash. This willtake a little while, as I will have to cut these rings out of stainless steel and hone them down so they are not only round, but have a nice edge to them and are highly polished. I might have to find someone with a water jet to make these for me.

Otherwise, I'm just enjoying the living Ba-Jeezis out of this car!


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Thanks for reading!!!
 
progress!
The rings are already made. There is a thread on here talking about them. I bought a set. They are shiny chrome with a slot for the illuminated marker on each dial. Mine are painted Punisher Red of course but they are very nice and ready to go. They snap right onto the knob.

RTE
 
Discussion starter · #76 ·
progress!
The rings are already made. There is a thread on here talking about them. I bought a set. They are shiny chrome with a slot for the illuminated marker on each dial. Mine are painted Punisher Red of course but they are very nice and ready to go. They snap right onto the knob.

RTE
I saw those and they aren't exactly "chrome" enough for me. I wanted something in the dash that looks a lot more like the chrome ring round dash vents. I might also recess the HVAC knobs into the dash slightly (around 1/8" - give or take). They seem to protrude outward a little too much. This is something I've been mulling around in my head and conceptualizing since I got the car. I don't think this would be too hard to do, plus I could add that slight bevel, just like the vents and Hazard, T/C and Fog Light buttons / switches have. I'm not sure about making stainless rings for those smaller dash buttons. It would make sense and draw it all together.

However, if I do all of that, I'm going to have to completely change the gauge overlay and get retro looking gauges. I'm really digging these (Autometer American Muscle series), but they are NOT red backlit, the needle is wrong and they are kind of small - only 2 1/16". If I went with these, I would have to get a the speedo and tach to match. However, I don'tfeel like modifying the dash SO much, that I would have to modify the actual stock gauges.

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When I had them on the bench they looked too chromy to me. I painted them

But if they are not shiny enough for you, consider power coating them. Chrome powder paint works pretty well. Clear over the top and they would blind you

RTE
 
Discussion starter · #78 ·
Yeah...I'm the guy who will look at something and notice if it's 1 degree off of center. I have an idea in my head and (within time) I'll execute it exactly how I envisioned it. . ..or I'll spend 46 hours on it and throw it away, because it's not right. I'm REALLY particular and anal about certain stuff. I really am THAT guy.

This is why I have an 8 year GTO project. I've spent hundreds of hours getting what I'm working on 100% perfect. I really love the GTO and this little Solstice is winning me over in a HUGE way...so when I go to do something, it's absolutely how I want it, or it's nothing.


@rob the elder I'm not trying to belittle or discount you in ANY WAY. I absolutely appreciate your input and love the fact you're trying to help. This is the reason I am posting on here. This is a great forum and part of the reason is you. I also appreciate @agent008 , @ChopTop , you all make this place (meaning the forum) a great experiance.

However, I will (literally, cut out the HVAC controls and relocate them and recess them into the dash 1/16" to 1/8" (essentially under 3mm) to get a look just so.

It took me 46 hours to make and get this center console right, to where I couldn't see any more flaws. The top trim piece was a nightmare, sanding and test fitting it to get all the gaps 100% even. I took a a couple pieces of paper as a gap tool and if it didn't flow along the opening just so, it came off and I sanded it down or added more JB Weld to the edge (waiting 24 hours to cure) and then re-tested it.

...and then I dropped it - 🤦‍♂️ - ...


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However, when I finished it...HOLY COW!!!....




This is the sort of thing I want to do to the Solstice. When I'm done with...whatever the part is, it will look just so and 99% of the people will never even know something was done. It will be like, "Oh he put chrome rings around the HVAC knobs." Maybe, they will notice the slight bevel. This is how I know I did it right.

I did this to an A-Pillar on my G5. The top 2 pods were not angled right and were driving me CRaZy. I Ended up, cutting off the pods and reattached them so they were evenly distanced and angled toward the drivers seat better. Here's how much I moved the pod


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The pens in the pic below, are almost in the right config., but illustrate the new angles of the repositioned pods


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And then I painted it and added an actual carbon fiber (with a copper filiment) to give it a cool effect


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Anyway, thank's again for reading and posting on my threads. I'll definitely be adding more pics and content after Pontiac Adventures and WiSOLS meet (Sept 27th to the 29th).

:cool:👍
 
Discussion starter · #80 ·
Does anyone else have the problem, where you can't see the T/C or Fog Light switches on the dash?
Am I the only one who has this? This is what I see when I'm driving:


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I can pretty much see the Hazard and dash dimmer switches, but the T/C and Fog Light switches are completely hidden. I do not like this, so I wanted to remedy this with the 'new'-ish dash. Since I'm already hacking it up, I decided to move a few things around. The dash that was starting to take shape, now looks like some really bad, moldy swiss cheese.

After I took this, I noticed the piece I'll be epoxying back in was upside down :-(

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...but you should get the gist of what I was doing...


I then removed the button sockets and this is the approximate relocation of said sockets back into the dash.

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What I will wind up doing is getting the sockets reset into the dash using hot glue. Once they are positioned straight, I'll use some masking tape over the dash and socket, so I can use JB Weld on the back side. Once the JB Weld is holding the sockets pretty firm, I'll go back and fill in the gaps, holes and bubbles.

The result will be the bottom (traction control) button will be moved over to the right about 3/4" and up 1/4". The middle (fog light) button will move up around 3/8" and the top (hazard) will move up about 1/2" and left about 1/4".
 
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