[kgschlosser]

you don't always have to relearn the sensor. There is a possibility of having to. I suggesting having the tool on hand in the event that happens. It may not happen. but it might. it depends on the sensor and how fast it responds to the position change. Just because a sensor is made for a vehicle doesn't mean there isn't differences that should be calculated for. If they didn't need to be accounted for then you would not have the ability to learn the crank position sensor.

The connector that is plugged into the throttle body has a lock on it. You need to use one of you fingernails to catch the lock and push it in the direction the clip comes off in. The lock just slides. once you have the lock undone there is going to be a button that you need to press. This is the hard part because the button is recessed into the clip on the same side as the lock. Pushing it with your finger is not that easy to do. It usually requires using some kind of a pick tool or screwdriver to help in pushing the button.

actually it could be one of these 2 types.

Now I am second guessing myself.

I believe it is this type tho.

 

[Rixfix]

Here is a line from the post i linked to above:

In order to remove the intake manifold (at least for me on the GXP) is simply unbolting all the 10mm on top for the various parts, there are two on towards the outside edge that are 10mm for brackets, one 13mm on that same front edge.
You can then easily remove the one vacuum line that is connected to the top of the intake, flop that solenoid and its three vacuum lines out of the way, remove the one hose on the front edge, and then one last 10mm on the firewall facing side of the manifold on a bracket that also holds the HPFP.
After that it was just the manifold bolts and nuts themselves, then the two studs under the two nuts along the top row (e-torx bit).
Loosen the throttle body elbow clamp to the throttle body (push down on the elbow and it pops right off the throttle body).

from there, tilting the left side of the manifold so it clears the coolant line and a gentle lift upwards until you have just enough room to slide your hand under the right side of the manifold to disconnect the wiring clip to the throttle body.
Boom, done.
The fuel line and vacuum hose assemblies should be able to flip away and clear of the manifold, once you disconnect the hard fuel line to hpfp.

for me the hardest part is that 13mm (or is it 15mm?) large bolt on the outside edge of the manifold because there is a thick, very tightly dressed electrical trunk which, when juxtaposed against the hard piping of the ABS system blocks almost any size socket or wrench combo. That harness is attached to an oddball stud with a 10 mm nut in the middle that i ditched long ago once i realized it wasn't really doing anything for the harness and was totally in the way of servicing the manifold.

that is a great post. Iam soooooooo close to having this manifold out! I'm trying to be very gentle and careful doing something like this the first time-dont want to break any connectors, plastic, aluminum tubing etc..Its just the connector holding me up (although it feels like theres still something else keeping me from lifting the manifold up more). The rubber elbow is completely disconnected from manifoold after pushing down on elbow-so I know its not that. I'm really having a hard time with that clip on connector. Cant do with fingers, cant really fit a tool in there too easily either.
I'll take a break and look at with fresh eyes tomorrow It's past five on a Friday night!

 

[JohnWR]

that is a great post. Iam soooooooo close to having this manifold out! I'm trying to be very gentle and careful doing something like this the first time-dont want to break any connectors, plastic, aluminum tubing etc..Its just the connector holding me up (although it feels like theres still something else keeping me from lifting the manifold up more). The rubber elbow is completely disconnected from manifoold after pushing down on elbow-so I know its not that. I'm really having a hard time with that clip on connector. Cant do with fingers, cant really fit a tool in there too easily either.
I'll take a break and look at with fresh eyes tomorrow It's past five on a Friday night!

It may help you to look at and manipulate a connector that is in plain sight. As I believe @HHGadget said previously, those connectors are used everywhere. The ones on the ignition coils and the VVT solenoids are easy to see and should help you to understand what to move where.

 

[Rixfix]

It may help you to look at and manipulate a connector that is in plain sight. As I believe @HHGadget said previously, those connectors are used everywhere. The ones on the ignition coils and the VVT solenoids are easy to see and should help you to understand what to move where.

Thanks-I'll dothat!

 

[kgschlosser]

There are 2 bolts that are hidden.. did you get both of them? If standing on the driver side looking at the engine from the side one is just south of where the hose connects that goes to the brake booster. The other one is near the front of the engine. It is holding the dip stick tube in place.

If you don't pull the studs that hold the intake to the engine you will NOT be able to lift up on the intake unless you undo the harness that goes to the throttle body. You will have to undo it by feel. If you take the studs out then you can lift the intake up on the engine side and get it so that it is standing up almost vertical. You will then be able to see the clip at the throttle body and be able to undo it.


Look at the MAF sensor. That one is going to be just like the one that plugs into the throttle body. You will see a red thing on it and that red thing pulls out to unlock it. Then you will be able to push the small button on it to release the catch on the clip. Even when doing that it might be difficult to get the thing off. It is in a location where dirt and dust end up getting into the clip and that makes it hard to remove. You have to wiggle it slightly to get the thing to come off..

For some crazy reason I think you can use either a 7mm or an 8mm socket to get those studs out, You will have to get the socket lined up and tap it with a hammer to push it on but it will go on. once you get the socket onto a stud it's pretty easy from there to loosen it and wiggle the ratchet to get the socket to come off while the stud is still threaded in a little bit. You can unscrew it the rest of the way by hand.

 

[Rixfix]

There are 2 bolts that are hidden.. did you get both of them? If standing on the driver side looking at the engine from the side one is just south of where the hose connects that goes to the brake booster. The other one is near the front of the engine. It is holding the dip stick tube in place.

If you don't pull the studs that hold the intake to the engine you will NOT be able to lift up on the intake unless you undo the harness that goes to the throttle body. You will have to undo it by feel. If you take the studs out then you can lift the intake up on the engine side and get it so that it is standing up almost vertical. You will then be able to see the clip at the throttle body and be able to undo it.


Look at the MAF sensor. That one is going to be just like the one that plugs into the throttle body. You will see a red thing on it and that red thing pulls out to unlock it. Then you will be able to push the small button on it to release the catch on the clip. Even when doing that it might be difficult to get the thing off. It is in a location where dirt and dust end up getting into the clip and that makes it hard to remove. You have to wiggle it slightly to get the thing to come off..

For some crazy reason I think you can use either a 7mm or an 8mm socket to get those studs out, You will have to get the socket lined up and tap it with a hammer to push it on but it will go on. once you get the socket onto a stud it's pretty easy from there to loosen it and wiggle the ratchet to get the socket to come off while the stud is still threaded in a little bit. You can unscrew it the rest of the way by hand.

Good morning. I am so glad I got on this forum-very helpful

I did get the 2 hidden bolts holding dipstick tube and brakebooster bracket for hose., and got an e-socket to remove the studs. The manifold pulls up about an inch or so.
I'm still unsure whats allowing me to pull the manifold up, but not tilt it to gain access to connector. Going to tackle it again after breakfast and hopefully report success today.
I think once I can see connector I'll be able to unplug it. The only thing that seemed weird in the instructions is to remove the "manifold bracket"-I didnt see one of these and thought I missed un doing it-yet the manifold is loose? Is it possible the maniofold was worked on before and this brace wasnt puSee photo.

 

[HHGadget]

Good morning. I am so glad I got on this forum-very helpful

I did get the 2 hidden bolts holding dipstick tube and brakebooster bracket for hose., and got an e-socket to remove the studs. The manifold pulls up about an inch or so.
I'm still unsure whats allowing me to pull the manifold up, but not tilt it to gain access to connector. Going to tackle it again after breakfast and hopefully report success today.
I think once I can see connector I'll be able to unplug it. The only thing that seemed weird in the instructions is to remove the "manifold bracket"-I didnt see one of these and thought I missed un doing it-yet the manifold is loose? Is it possible the maniofold was worked on before and this brace wasnt puSee photo.

Ahh, i do not have the brake booster as i am the lucky owner of the rare early ‘08 GM brake booster delete performance package.
(sarcasm)
I was unaware that connects to the manifold?
The two points of difficulty i had in loosening the first time was the tightness of the thick wiring harness and the brackets. One on the drivers side and the other was the dipstick.
You may want to grab a friend to hold it up and get a flashlight underneath to see what you are bumping against.
I put a towel over the valve cover and then got the front edge (with the studs removed) straight up and above the valve cover just a little then pulled it back against the wiring harness to get the left side around the large coolant line on the head while tilting the right side down. Once i had the left side clear of the coolant line i was able to lift up and out.

 

[HHGadget]

You may also look at ways of gently getting some slack around the outside edge by following the various hoses and wiring and seeing where you can gain just the smallest amount of extra area to pull away from the head.

 

[Rixfix]

You may also look at ways of gently getting some slack around the outside edge by following the various hoses and wiring and seeing where you can gain just the smallest amount of extra area to pull away from the head.

Success! There was still a bolt attached that I could hardly see. Now to do what is needed and change the crankshaft sensor lol and fingers crossed it doesn’t need the tech2 done. Can this only be done by Gm dealer or would most good service garages have this?
Thanks again guys😁

 

[JohnWR]

Success! There was still a bolt attached that I could hardly see. Now to do what is needed and change the crankshaft sensor lol and fingers crossed it doesn’t need the tech2 done. Can this only be done by Gm dealer or would most good service garages have this?
Thanks again guys😁

Most (all?) independent garages will have the capability, if you need it.

 

[HHGadget]

Congrats!
High end scanner / programmer bi-directional tools will have the ability. Simple code readers will not.
As John said i cant imagine a auto shop that doesn't own at least one of these tools.
I am hoping you wont need it
Inspect your manifold carefully while you have it out. If there is any oil in it, you may wish to replace the PCV valve while you have the manifold out. Cheap part, easy install once the manifold is out.

 

[kgschlosser]

that nipple sticking out is where the brake booster hose attaches to the intake. Just south of that "hidden" is a 13mm bolt that you have to remove. There is a bracket that runs from the intake manifold down to the engine. It is simply a support bracket. It's that bracket that doesn't allow you to easily pull the intake manifold out if the studs are in place in the engine.

If you remove the intake manifold without taking the studs out one of the studs ends up scratching the inside of the #4 intake runner. It also makes it easier to unplug the throttle body when you remove them because it allows you to roll the intake so the head mounting surface is pointing up. at that time you will be able to see the throttle body harness so you can undo the lock on it.

Use a large male allen socket or allen key to unscrew the PCV from the intake manifold. It is located between the #2 and #3 intake runners. It looks like a hole between those runners but there is a plastic piece down in there that does come out. I believe when you shake it you should hear a rattling sound.@HGadget knows if that is the case.\ I recommend replacing that PCV because it is a lot of work to get to it and the part is not expensive. It just makes sense to do it now while you have it apart. The PCV valve is considered to be a consumable item, like an air cleaner.

 

[kgschlosser]

As a note.. I forgot to mention this earlier. There are these round black bushings where the studs and bolts go through the intake manifold. do not loose those as they are to keep the intake manifold positioned properly on the head. To get them out stick a bolt on the hole and move the bolt so it is angled and then pull. they will come right out. They do fall out as well.... Since I forgot to tell you about them grab a flashlight and shine it down the intake ports. I want you to actually do this for 2 years. One is to see if any bushings fell out and dropped into the intake ports and the second reason is to look at the valve stems and see how much carbon buildup is on the stems. If there is an excessive amount of carbon you might consider having the valves cleaned by either dry ice blasting or walnut blasting. The latter you can do at home if you have a compressor. That carbon buildup will cause issues later on and it should be addressed if there is a lot of buildup.

 

[Rixfix]

As a note.. I forgot to mention this earlier. There are these round black bushings where the studs and bolts go through the intake manifold. do not loose those as they are to keep the intake manifold positioned properly on the head. To get them out stick a bolt on the hole and move the bolt so it is angled and then pull. they will come right out. They do fall out as well.... Since I forgot to tell you about them grab a flashlight and shine it down the intake ports. I want you to actually do this for 2 years. One is to see if any bushings fell out and dropped into the intake ports and the second reason is to look at the valve stems and see how much carbon buildup is on the stems. If there is an excessive amount of carbon you might consider having the valves cleaned by either dry ice blasting or walnut blasting. The latter you can do at home if you have a compressor. That carbon buildup will cause issues later on and it should be addressed if there is a lot of buildup.

Most (all?) independent garages will have the capability, if you need it.

After successfully reinstalling the manifold after replacing the hard to get at sensor, it looks like I may need to get that professional relearning done with the garage scanner. My buddy owns a garage downtown, maybe he can bring this ad can took over so I don’t have to tow to him. There were no engine codes after replacing the sensor at first, but after a few attempts to start the solstice the po335 is back. Arrrgh

 

[JohnWR]

After successfully reinstalling the manifold after replacing the hard to get at sensor, it looks like I may need to get that professional relearning done with the garage scanner. My buddy owns a garage downtown, maybe he can bring this ad can took over so I don’t have to tow to him. There were no engine codes after replacing the sensor at first, but after a few attempts to start the solstice the po335 is back. Arrrgh

P0335 is listed more as a wiring problem than a sensor problem, with the options being a short to ground in either the 5V reference or the signal, or an opencircuit in either the signal, 5V, or ground.

The following are checked in the harness connector with the CKP sensor unplugged.

• Ignition OFF: Check for less than 1 ohm resistance between Terminal 2 (Tan Wire) and ground
• Ignition ON, Engine OFF: Test for 4.8 to 5.2 V between Terminal 1 (Gray Wire) and ground
• Ignition ON, Engine OFF: Test for 4.8 to 5.2 V between Terminal 3 (Yellow Wire) and ground

 

[Rixfix]

P0335 is listed more as a wiring problem than a sensor problem, with the options being a short to ground in either the 5V reference or the signal, or an opencircuit in either the signal, 5V, or ground.

Yikes. I read that it could be either the wiring or sensor ... so I bought the relatively in expensive sensor. I checked the wiring and harness visually and they looked ok before plugging in new sensor, but not sure how to check for a short to ground, open circuit, etc-it might be beyond my capability-even doing this whole manifold removal was not easy for me. I'll do some research on how to test the wiring with my volt meter-it sounds like I may have to remove that manifold again......nooooooooooo.

 

[JohnWR]

Yikes. I read that it could be either the wiring or sensor ... so I bought the relatively in expensive sensor. I checked the wiring and harness visually and they looked ok before plugging in new sensor, but not sure how to check for a short to ground, open circuit, etc-it might be beyond my capability-even doing this whole manifold removal was not easy for me. I'll do some research on how to test the wiring with my volt meter-it sounds like I may have to remove that manifold again......nooooooooooo.

I posted an addendum to the one you quoted. The checks are pretty easy once you get the connector back off.

 

[Rixfix]

P0335 is listed more as a wiring problem than a sensor problem, with the options being a short to ground in either the 5V reference or the signal, or an opencircuit in either the signal, 5V, or ground.

The following are checked in the harness connector with the CKP sensor unplugged.

• Ignition OFF: Check for less than 1 ohm resistance between Terminal 2 (Tan Wire) and ground
• Ignition ON, Engine OFF: Test for 4.8 to 5.2 V between Terminal 1 (Gray Wire) and ground
• Ignition ON, Engine OFF: Test for 4.8 to 5.2 V between Terminal 3 (Yellow Wire) and ground

Thanks for the info. If I have the energy and time to do the manifold removal again (at least it should be quicker 2nd time around lol), what would I do if I test the wiring and find a fault? Bad connector? I'm not a real electrical expert. I'm just a shade tree mechanic, that has owned a few older cars (easy to work on). I have a few friends that are mechanics, but they are away enjoying the long weekend here.

 

[JohnWR]

Thanks for the info. If I have the energy and time to do the manifold removal again (at least it should be quicker 2nd time around lol), what would I do if I test the wiring and find a fault? Bad connector? I'm not a real electrical expert. I'm just a shade tree mechanic, that has owned a few older cars (easy to work on). I have a few friends that are mechanics, but they are away enjoying the long weekend here.

It depends on what you find. A bad connector pin is always a possibility, so visually inspect for those.

• For Terminal 2 (Low Reference):
  • High resistance is either a broken wire or a bad ECM.
    • Connection at ECM is X1-Pin46
• For Terminal 1 (5V Reference):
  • Low voltage is a short to ground, an open connection, or a bad ECM
    • Connection at ECM is X1-Pin45
  • High voltage is a short to B+ or a bad ECM
• For Terminal 3 (Signal):
  • Low voltage is a short to ground, an open connection, or a bad ECM
    • Connection at ECM is X1-Pin 35
  • High voltage is a short to B+ or a bad ECM

If you read an open connection you can unplug the ECM and check continuity between the two ends of the wire. There are no intermediate connections, and the wire is the same color at both ends.

 

[kgschlosser]

chances are where you problem is will be at the ECM connectors. I recommend taking the clips on and off several times. There have been users that have reported issues with corrosion on the pins. taking the connector off and on a few times will usually solve any issues like that. It's an easy check to do.

I believe the CKP sensor is grounded on the head between the firewall and the engine. You might want to take the bolt out and clean the rings and also where the bolt goes into the head. A small wire brush will do the trick there. Also clean the threads on the bolt as well as the underside of the head to ensure you get the best possible connection.


It is highly unlikely that you have a wiring issue due to the proximity of the sensor to the ECM. I have not seen anyone report any issues with the wiring at all. I have seen bad sensors, corroded pins and bad grounds.